New set of Allen Keys needed

[Pinne]

I own a lot of hex keys, they're one of my most used tools.

Current favorite is Eight Tools. Their taper head hey keys are some of the best I've ever used in terms of fitment (especially the ball end): https://www.eight-tool.co.jp/en/tapaer-head

I also really like Wera Hex Plus and they've served me well for a long time. I buy the ones without the plastic sleeve, those sleeves always come off eventually.

 

[redwrench60]

Bondhus Gold & Silver (metric&sae) $40

Can't go wrong

Yup. These are my absolute favorite. Good anti corrosion plating, strong as hell and not too expensive.

 

[gizardlizard]

Eight tools have awesome hex wrenches.

 

[mm08822]

"pocket knife mounted" ?
FWIW; Those folding sets usually come apart with a single screw. Loose ones shown in post 14 above.

Great concept. That ends after the first use. And not every screw location can afford that much bulk.

I've purchased a few of these just to cut down for a specific length needed.

 

[liliysdad]

I don't know if you're the only one, but there can't be many of you. I consider the ball end to be essential.

I’d absolutely agree with this. I can’t really think of a single time I’ve used a ball end hex key and wished it was straight, but I can remember countless times the reverse was true.

 

[ecotec]

Am I the only one who dislikes the ball end on the long end of the L shaped and T-Handle Allen wrenches? Most of the time you don't need it and it prevents it from standing upright as you change your hand position.
Those without the ball end are different to find.

In my tools for work (journeyman inside wireman), I do not use ball Allen keys.

 

[134k]

Am I the only one who dislikes the ball end on the long end of the L shaped and T-Handle Allen wrenches? Most of the time you don't need it and it prevents it from standing upright as you change your hand position.
Those without the ball end are different to find.

In an industrial setting with machine tools, jigs, stages, panels..I use the ball end all the time. Now, with Eight hex keys and their ball end, it is a game changer. It's very, very use-able even when tightening.

 

[KnurledNut]

I primarily use bits at work, especially the long variety. Having different drive options at hand really is a game changer for me. Every so often, I still need an L-key, but they are not my first choice and really don't look forward to having to use them. I'll typically jump to bit sockets for more demanding applications.

 

[colmal]

I've been looking for some Proto's, for a Sidchrome Proto wall cabinet, 1999-2001 , after 5 years still haven't even seen one and will just go with the Eklind

Am I right in assuming the Proto were made by Eklind ?

 

[i84x]

I also really like Wera Hex Plus and they've served me well for a long time. I buy the ones without the plastic sleeve, those sleeves always come off eventually.

Im also a fan of the Weras. Ive used them daily for years now and had no problems with them other than, like you say, the sleeve comes off. I use to glue the sleeve into the holder instead when they came off.

 

[RoninB4]

Am I right in assuming they were made by Eklind ?

-I was a tool and die maker for Eklind and was very involved with the ball driver project in 1995. I can't say for certain that they're still made by Eklind but I see no reason that they wouldn't be. They moved the entire factory from the Chicago location to one of the nearby suburbs after I left them. The money paid for the ball driver machinery plus all the 4-slide, stamping presses, and the tooling was considerable. It would seem highly unlikely that they'd sell off all that after developing the ball drivers. I see no reason that they'd outsource any aspect of manufacturing hex keys themselves.

 

[M635_Guy]

I got the Wera set and was surprised how much I like them - Very beefy, tough and nice handles.

 

[JradM]

Wera Hex-Plus are the absolute best for tough turnery.

PB Swiss and Bondhus are great too.

I concur. TTC's test is your best objective data, but also bear in mind that the faces on Wera's version are unique - slightly concave. It not only actually works to increase the torque limit, but it's great for slightly deformed heads or where there's contamination inside the recess.

The round handle shape is also comfortable. I really think they're the best of the best.

Nevertheless, Bonhus or PB Swiss are also top-performers. Eklind has worked well for me too.

 

[colmal]

-I was a tool and die maker for Eklind and was very involved with the ball driver project in 1995. I can't say for certain that they're still made by Eklind but I see no reason that they wouldn't be. They moved the entire factory from the Chicago location to one of the nearby suburbs after I left them. The money paid for the ball driver machinery plus all the 4-slide, stamping presses, and the tooling was considerable. It would seem highly unlikely that they'd sell off all that after developing the ball drivers. I see no reason that they'd outsource any aspect of manufacturing hex keys themselves.

Thankyou , bought a Eklind 20 piece AF short set, which includes the 13 piece holder, have wanted a set of the ball Hex keys and when I find a good seller I'll get them as well.

 

[RoninB4]

Thankyou , bought a Eklind 20 piece AF short set, which includes the 13 piece holder, have wanted a set of the ball Hex keys and when I find a good seller I'll get them as well.

-The ball-end hex keys are not nearly as strong as the regular ended ones due to the smaller cross section at the neck. I only mention this because it's not obvious to everyone and the numerous reports of the ball breaking off means it's not obvious to everyone. Regular ended hex keys should be used to set or break the fastener loose/tight, ball ends are just for spinning the fastener in/out. If you already know this then I'm preaching to the choir and my statements are for everybody else. Hope your new purchase works well for you. If/when the hex keys round over I just grind them back (carefully to not affect the metal temper) so they're useful again, so you don't need to toss them out.

 

[colmal]

-The ball-end hex keys are not nearly as strong as the regular ended ones due to the smaller cross section at the neck. I only mention this because it's not obvious to everyone and the numerous reports of the ball breaking off means it's not obvious to everyone. Regular ended hex keys should be used to set or break the fastener loose/tight, ball ends are just for spinning the fastener in/out. If you already know this then I'm preaching to the choir and my statements are for everybody else. Hope your new purchase works well for you. If/when the hex keys round over I just grind them back (carefully to not affect the metal temper) so they're useful again, so you don't need to toss them out.

Yep, I'll do that, been watching a bit of Cutting Edge Engineering on U-Toob, the ball end look so much more useful once the seal is broken, T-Handles would be even better, but I can make do with the L shaped ones as I don't use them enough to justify the cost.

I already have Metric, A/F folder's of Bondhus and a drawer full of randoms I use, The short Eklind is more a whimsy to fill a original Sidchrome Proto wall cabinet correctly

Might get me to pull my finger out also and make some spring steel tool hooks somehow, so I can mount a set of OE spanners.
.

 

[RoninB4]

T-Handles would be even better, but I can make do with the L shaped ones as I don't use them enough to justify the cost.

-Eklind does make ball end in a T-handle set for both inch and metric. A T-handle is sometimes a better choice.

 

[AJHD]

My vote also goes to Wera.. I have the metric, SAE and torx versions (all HexPlus/HF).

Nicest, most comfortable and best working keys I've ever used.

 

[mslim]

-The ball-end hex keys are not nearly as strong as the regular ended ones due to the smaller cross section at the neck. I only mention this because it's not obvious to everyone and the numerous reports of the ball breaking off means it's not obvious to everyone. Regular ended hex keys should be used to set or break the fastener loose/tight, ball ends are just for spinning the fastener in/out. If you already know this then I'm preaching to the choir and my statements are for everybody else. Hope your new purchase works well for you. If/when the hex keys round over I just grind them back (carefully to not affect the metal temper) so they're useful again, so you don't need to toss them out.

I'm with Ronin on this. I have a set of SK USA ballend sockets I never use. I like euro hand tools but I see no need to buy anything other than Ekland or Bondhus for L keys.

 

[Notgrownup]

Harbor freight Icon for the win

 

[Pinne]

For anyone using the ball end hex tools often, you owe it to yourself to try out Eight tools (Zoro has them as do some vendors like TBG Tool, Misumi, and Whale Supply). Easily the best fit of any hex tools I've used.

 

[KwikFab]

Wera for me for the L variety.

I've broken other brands.

For T-handle types I actually prefer Eklind.

 

[bryant 24]

 

[colmal]

Thankyou , bought a Eklind 20 piece AF short set, which includes the 13 piece holder, have wanted a set of the ball Hex keys and when I find a good seller I'll get them as well.



wanted them for the 13 piece Short Eklind set,only ones I could find, the loose keys were a bonus- good price, new

Just arrived, Pictures are kinda of deceptive and didn't really think about it, happy with the Red cased set, but WTF do I do with the loose ones ? I don't own a tank or a 30 ton lathe, they're ginormous.

 

[RoninB4]

-Ag-Con mechanics will want the larger sizes if you don't.

 

[colmal]

-Ag-Con mechanics will want the larger sizes if you don't.

I've solved that, maybe gone a bit overboard, but it's been bugging me for 5 yrs.

The short set I have I'll put back in the 20 piece holder and sell at some stage.

Realized you don't even see the Proto branding when it is in the cabinet, so the Eklind is acceptable to me, even the Eklind short sets aren't common here and haven't seen any metric at all.

Also haven't seen any Proto in Oz during the last 5 yrs, the correct white writing is not common in US even (mostly black), and couldn't find someone selling both metric and A/F together anyway and I'm not importing a used set.

But I did find a good deal, $68 US ($100AUD) posted for 2 new prs, $17 US posted for each set is way unders what it would cost here and I'll sell the second pair to get my money back, should even make a bit on it. They were $22 US a pair, nothing else came close.

And yes I'm nuts but coming here doesn't help. This is the only Proto wall cabinet I've seen as well, not common at all,so I've gone a little bit overs trying to get one done- gives me something to do anyway- I have 4 other older Sidchrome wall cabinets, not trying to complete those as the prices are insane.

They were posted today, so we'll see how that works out.