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What did you do "IN" your garage today?

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PhantomEB

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 6, 2006
Messages
6,774
Location
Medicine Hat, AB, Canuckistan
Finally dug out my summer rims and put 3 on the car. They are in sore need of new Rubber and brake pads soon. Looking at these As it’s just my daily driver.

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Rated 99.5 for road conditions and speed rated enough to cover what I tend to open the car up to on the highway.

digging out other stuff to put on FBMP and get rid of.

all I can say is I am ready to just work 10-12 hrs a day, 6 days a week for 6-7 weeks probably more. Gonna be a lot of boxes showing up to dial in the vehicles With new sheet metal and whatever they need to be dialed in for trips.
 

Kurt4440

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 3, 2009
Messages
2,448
Location
Western New York
Diagnosed and replaced the intake manifold on a used car at work. 2017 Hyundai Elantra Sport. Apparently a common problem on these because we had two manifolds in stock which is unusual if it’s not a common problem. Forgot to take an after picture but I will tomorrow. I haven’t been doing much “basic” work lately because they have moved so many techs up that there’s not enough basic work like tires and brakes for everyone haha. But that’s ok I like doing stuff like this. Engine and suspension work are my two favorite things to do so this was right up my alley. Not that hard to do just a little aggravating.
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At least the intake manifold on that car is right in the front of the engine. No reaching around back on that job. 👍

I did a front brake job on a LS430 last night. Easy peasy, but, I spent more time cleaning; the caliper, caliper mounting surfaces, hub face, and the back of the wheel. The rust belt is really tough on vehicles.

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I had a little time left over and the car was jacked up, so I sanded, compounded, polished, and coated the headlights.

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bulletpruf

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 28, 2013
Messages
10,999
Location
San Antonio
Durham hardware storage unit was delivered to the shop. Unlike the two others that I've purchased, this one wasn't heavily damaged.

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Partially unloaded the drawers and then wrassled it off the two pallets solo. I prevailed, but it was touch and go for a minute.

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Unloading the old bins. I didn't realize how much I would prefer drawers to bins, but it's a huge difference when you're searching for the right length and configuration of bolt. With the bins, you have to empty the entire bin to see what you have instead of just opening a drawer.

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Labeling done.

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dwasifar

Well-known member
Joined
May 28, 2017
Messages
2,096
Added a dust collection hose to my bench sander:

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I've had a run lately making pencil cups. To recap: It started with these two quick and dirty for the workbenches.

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And it turned into making fancy ones for my office coworkers:

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So now I'm selling them to people until my scrap wood supply runs out. But the ones I made for the workshop were only for the two wall benches. I have an island bench with the table saw attached, and I have to keep the top of that clear for the saw outfeed. But I've been using that bench a lot and I don't want to have to go get a pencil; I want it right at hand. This is my solution:

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Back to basics, quick and dirty. At hand but not occupying bench space.

I am the pencil cup KING! :D (To be fair, I was running unopposed, but still.)
 

Kurt4440

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 3, 2009
Messages
2,448
Location
Western New York
What was your procedure/materials used for the headlights?
Wet sand with 2000 grit, then 3000 grit, then compound,

usually I polish next and use a ceramic coating
but
last night I experimented with this graphene 1 & done, and then the graphene top coat.

I use the little yellow sanding blocks with the sandpaper and some elbow grease, and a 3" random orbital polisher with various pads for the compound, polishes and finish coat.

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Beerhippie

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,808
Location
Far NE Oregon
Tried to unplug another kitchen drain this AM. Failed. It's a floor drain with some dumb-*** built-in grease trap that pretty much makes it impossible to snake--or remove trapped grease. It's also set in a slab-on-grade floor, so no other access for cleaning. It's not a frequently used drain, so I'll wait 'til Monday--when we're closed for the day--and use the heavy-duty stuff--concentrated sulfuric acid. Works great, but stinks the place up with noxious fumes that take pretty much all day to clear out.

Got started mowing one of the back areas. Had a root that I've been mowing around for years and finally decided to do something about it. Got the Pulaski out of the shed and... it had been left covered in mud, with a trashed edge on the blade and stored with the head down on a damp dirt floor. Thanks, co-workers. Head was far too loose to safely even attempt to cut with it. Got out the chainsaw and got 'er done. Now I have a Pulaski to fix and a chain to sharpen.

As soon as I got the root out of the way, the skies opened up and the rain came down. No mowing today. Time to fix a tool.

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Not the best job of sharpening I've done, but it'll work. Much better than what was there before--my framing hammers are sharper that that was. Sharpened the hoe end, too. I pulled the head almost all the way off--as far as it would go--and slathered 20-minute epoxy over the exposed part of the haft and inside the top of the eye. Drove the head back on, added a steel wedge and heated it up with a heat gun. Once the epoxy sets completely, I'll scrape that squeeze-out off the haft, sand it and give it a good few coats of thinned BLO. I'll hit the head with a wire brush and give that a coat or two of BLO, too.

Then hang it back on the shed wall, which is where it should have been.

Now for the chainsaw chain.....
 
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racecougar

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 26, 2021
Messages
5,105
Location
Missouri
Repaired/restored a couple of parts for the '73 Mustang build that nobody will ever see. The vacuum switch for the heater core valve lost its spring retainer at some point. A little JB Weld and a door rod retainer saved us from spending $50 on a new one. The heater core valve still works great, but needed a good cleanup and repaint. These parts are ready to be put back into service, blocking off coolant flow to the heater core when the heat is turned off. Gotta keep that AC blowing extra cold!

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GrayFlattop

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 18, 2018
Messages
1,045
Location
Chicago
“No user servicable parts inside.”

Kinda true, I don’t do surface mount stuff.

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This is one of the batteries I inherited from Dad. It wouldn’t charge. So, let’s have a look inside.

Found four cells at ~4V and one at 0V. Rigged up a single cell charge, and got it up to 3.8V

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Reassembled. It shows three bars now, but still won’t charge. Goes immediately to green, as if it was already full.

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Could be that the four fully charged cells are confusing the circuitry. I‘ll drill some holes tomorrow, then see if it’ll charge normally.

Sanding and assembly on these.

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Tomorrow they can start getting some primer and paint.
Don’t feel bad about that Milwaukee M18 battery - you gave it a good shot at a rescue. FWIW, I’ve been down that exact path several times with similar results. Milwaukee M18 batteries are without a doubt the sh!ttiest battery platform I use.

The YouTube gurus have much better luck reviving these batteries, but I’m 0-5. To me the larger point is why should I have to? Charged correctly, stored correctly and used correctly. Not dropped, not in a puddle of mud (that’s the ancient Makita that’s still ticking), not overworked so hard that the nylon brush holders started smoking (that’s a Bosch that still works). Other than these two wounded, cordless soldiers, I rarely abuse my tools.

I’ve had more M18 battery failures than any other brand. Never a single failure with Bosch, Makita 18V or even Ryobi 18V. When a $$ 12Ah M18 battery sh!ts the bed 4 months out of warranty, it gives you pause. 2-3Ah, and 2-5Ah have also joined their big brother in the battery recycling bin. It irks me as I have many, many more M18 batteries that I feel will give up the ghost in the coming years. I’m sure that others may have different results, but I don’t think I’ll be buying another M18. It’s a shame as they really have some brilliant tools (except for their useless 1/2” drill chucks).

To be fair, I’ve been very, very pleased with everything M12 in the very innovative Milwaukee lineup. My first new Milwaukee tool was in 1977, so it’s not as if I’m new to the brand.

Sorry-I just had to get that off my chest. Carry on.
 

DGersic

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 12, 2017
Messages
6,318
Location
DeKalb, IL
Don’t feel bad about that Milwaukee M18 battery - you gave it a good shot at a rescue. FWIW, I’ve been down that exact path several times with similar results. Milwaukee M18 batteries are without a doubt the sh!ttiest battery platform I use.

The YouTube gurus have much better luck reviving these batteries, but I’m 0-5. To me the larger point is why should I have to? Charged correctly, stored correctly and used correctly. Not dropped, not in a puddle of mud (that’s the ancient Makita that’s still ticking), not overworked so hard that the nylon brush holders started smoking (that’s a Bosch that still works). Other than these two wounded, cordless soldiers, I rarely abuse my tools.

I’ve had more M18 battery failures than any other brand. Never a single failure with Bosch, Makita 18V or even Ryobi 18V. When a $$ 12Ah M18 battery sh!ts the bed 4 months out of warranty, it gives you pause. 2-3Ah, and 2-5Ah have also joined their big brother in the battery recycling bin. It irks me as I have many, many more M18 batteries that I feel will give up the ghost in the coming years. I’m sure that others may have different results, but I don’t think I’ll be buying another M18. It’s a shame as they really have some brilliant tools (except for their useless 1/2” drill chucks).

To be fair, I’ve been very, very pleased with everything M12 in the very innovative Milwaukee lineup. My first new Milwaukee tool was in 1977, so it’s not as if I’m new to the brand.

Sorry-I just had to get that off my chest. Carry on.


Thread 'Tool battery life? New “red” vs. old “yellow” batteries.'
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum...-life-new-red-vs-old-yellow-batteries.558285/

In this case, I think it worked. After putting the battery on the charger, it no longer flashes 8 blinks at me. After putting it in the drill and drilling some holes in a scrap 2x4, I got it down to two bars. After that, it seems to be charging normally.

It‘s only a 1.5Ah battery. And the (non Fuel) drill is weak. I can easily stall it with a 1/2” fluted bit in a 2x4. So, not impressed compared to my old DeWalt that has no problems running 1 1/4” bits and will snap a wrist if the bit jams on something.

So, success, I guess.
 

Beerhippie

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,808
Location
Far NE Oregon
Had a bit of a scare and found out what's on my dance card for tomorrow:

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That door is 10' tall, 4' wide, 2" foam board sandwiched between 1/2" ply with 1X6" reinforcements. It ain't light. I went to close it as part of my evening lock-up, and it fell off the hinges. I was able to get out of the way, but it did get the ol' adrenaline a'pumpin'.

The pintle hinge pins bolts just loosened up and rotated, dropping the door off the hinges. I think I'll haul ol' Sparky over there and give them some good, solid tack welds to the pallet racks when I put it back together. Some of the youngs around here ain't as spry as the ol' guy when it comes to giant doors falling on them.

I'd hoped to get the rockers on the other side of the Brick painted tomorrow and get out for a little camping, but the weather is horrible and supposed to continue so through the weekend. May as well recharge the bank account with a little work instead.

Happy Friday, y'all!
 

DGersic

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 12, 2017
Messages
6,318
Location
DeKalb, IL
Got my fans. Got the evaporator box reassembled and hopefully ready to install back in to the car.

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After use, the battery now seems to be charging normally again.

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Primer.

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