Remove fresh sealer and reseal

[Dino1147]

I have a 48x32 pole barn with a concrete floor that was poured on 5/21. 4 weeks later it was sealed. I will be using the space as a mechanic's shop so I told the contractor I wanted as much protection against stains as possible, but he ended up using Deco Guard which gives no protection at all and only repels water. I bought a used 4 post lift and the hydraulic fluid leaked out causing a bunch of stains. I need to remove the sealer and as much of the stains as I can. Everyone is telling me to do a coating but the floor will get some serious abuse so I'm thinking of using PS103 followed by PS100. The current sealer was thinned with Xylene so I'm going to try and strip it with Xylene. I'll rent a machine and polish the floor as best as I can so the densifier and sealer have the best shot at repelling oil and other chemicals.
I ordered a colored floor, like a sandy beach floor. I got red-brown...
Not what I asked for but doesn't look that bad either. If I end up with a coating instead lf a sealer then I would change the color. That doesn't seem feasible with a sealer.
I love the idea of s polyaspartic that will prevent staining but I'd be nervous doing actual work in there. First picture is without sealer. The others are with. What would you do?

 

[strength_and_power]

I’d start by talking to the manufacturer of what’s been applied find out what is best to remove it and what what you want to put down, make sure there won’t be an issue. Good luck

 

[Dino1147]

Thanks! They sell a biodegradable remover but it would cost about $1,600 to cover the area and that's a bit much. I've already lost a ton of money on this. Since it's solvent based and thinned with Xylene they said I can spray straight Xylene on it and powerwash it off. Or if I would go with a coating afterwards then skip the chemicals and just grind the entire floor. They don't have any sealer they recommend for my application.

 

[Shea]

Thanks! They sell a biodegradable remover but it would cost about $1,600 to cover the area and that's a bit much. I've already lost a ton of money on this. Since it's solvent based and thinned with Xylene they said I can spray straight Xylene on it and powerwash it off. Or if I would go with a coating afterwards then skip the chemicals and just grind the entire floor. They don't have any sealer they recommend for my application.

If you strip it with Xylene, you should be able to apply the densifier and oil-repelling sealer combo without further prep. Just verify with a water drop test in various areas that the concrete will absorb the water and not be blocked by residual acrylic left in the concrete pores. You may want to agitate the Xylene with a deck brush after applying it to make sure the acrylic is loosened up.

If you elect to grind instead, the slab will be far too porous for the densifier and sealer. The profile would be excellent for a viscous coating, but it will greedily absorb densifiers and sealers, rendering them ineffective. To correct the issue, you will need to make a few passes with less aggressive diamond pads, stepping up until you can achieve a minimum 150-200 grit profile. It will effectively close up the large open pores, smooth out the surface, and make a nice surface for the densifier and sealer to work properly.

 

[Dino1147]

I spoke with a few people today who basically told me just that. I was leaning towards grinding and coating but I know I will be doing projects in that garage that will damage the coating. I think it is best to grind and polish and use a densifier and sealer. PS103 and PS100 from Concrete Sealers USA respectively seems the way to go. Thanks!