Tool to Drill Hole in Driveway?

[YoshiMoshi3]

Don't have a garage. Hoping to get a setup where I can leave my car up on my QuickJack for several days, so that way I can work on my vehicles bit by bit, maybe a couple of minutes a day. As opposed to my current setup of having to leave major car work to the weekends, and a couple of hours at one time, because I don't want to leave my QuickJack out in the rain.

Hope to get some sort of carport or something, so that I can leave my car on a QuickJack out for several days under it, and not have to worry about it raining. I would need to secure my carport temporary shelter to the ground. My only problem is that I have never drilled into a driveway type material before. What kind of tool do I need to drill a hole into my driveway? How do I create a threaded nut insert into the hole I drill?

Thanks for any help, haven't done any masonry work work before. Don't know that I ever would need again. Is it possible to rent the hammer drill I would need? If not, is there a Harbor Freight one that might work? Would likely only need it for this one job, and kind of don't want to spend $300 on a hammer drill.

 

[mike93lx]

Driveways aren't a universal material. What is yours made of?

 

[The Cobbler]

haven't done any masonry work work before. Don't know that I ever would need again.

assuming it's concrete, you need a hammer drill & masonry bit at minimum. also it may depend on your structure what size & type of anchors

 

[mikegt4]

assuming it's concrete, you need a hammer drill & masonry bit at minimum. also it may depend on your structure what size & type of anchors

A hammer drill and masonry bit are usually available at your local tool rental place.

 

[jblnut]

Driveways aren't a universal material. What is yours made of?

That’s the first question to be answered before any advice can be given. Too many variables otherwise.

 

[strength_and_power]

A rotary hammer with an SDS chuck is what you want. A hammer drill and masonry bit will only frustrate you.
I’d use a masonry screw ( think Tapcon) . A 3/8”hole/3/8” anchor is what I’d use. Don’t go crazy on tightening them and you will be able to remove and reuse many times.

 

[mike93lx]

A rotary hammer with an SDS chuck is what you want. A hammer drill and masonry bit will only frustrate you.
I’d use a masonry screw ( think Tapcon) . A 3/8”hole/3/8” anchor is what I’d use. Don’t go crazy on tightening them and you will be able to remove and reuse many times.

I have tried a couple times and haven't ever gotten a removed tapcon to tighten down in the same hole again.

But before a that, what is the driveway made of?

If asphalt, a tapcon isn't going to do anything

 

[Hakeem]

I have tried a couple times and haven't ever gotten a removed tapcon to tighten down in the same hole again.

But before a that, what is the driveway made of?

If asphalt, a tapcon isn't going to do anything

Take a zip tie tail about the same length as the depth of the hole and put it in before reinserting the tapcon. It’ll give the screw something to ‘bite’ into.

OP: unless you’re looking for a semipermanent structure and/or live in a place with high winds, I’d just use bricks or gallon jugs filled with water to hold the legs of the carport down

 

[seber]

Not just what is the driveway made of but how big a hole do you need. A hammer drill is fine for small holes but a holesaw may be needed for larger holes.

 

[Nobody-named-Olli]

Take a zip tie tail about the same length as the depth of the hole and put it in before reinserting the tapcon. It’ll give the screw something to ‘bite’ into.

While for some applications it doesn’t really matter and you get away with it (most likely as would be in the OP’s case), generally that is very bad advise and shouldn’t be done when using structural fasteners. The zip-tie (or whatever else is pushed into the hole) messes with load bearing capabilities and even worse, fire resistance.

If a (re-usable, in first place) fastener is worn to the point it doesn’t meet spec. anymore, it’s replaced. Some manufacturers offer sleeves to check for wear/ re-usability.

If the hole you are (re-)using is the cause of the problem, check if you were using the correct fastener for that material in first place.

—

To the OP, get the temp. car port first, look what methods of securing make the most sense. Couple of bricks, water or sand filled jugs, (…) might be more than enough. Some of these temp. structures have built in capabilities/ options to add weight.

Kind regards,
Olli

 

[whateg01]

...

OP: unless you’re looking for a semipermanent structure and/or live in a place with high winds, I’d just use bricks or gallon jugs filled with water to hold the legs of the carport down

No wind where you live huh?

 

[mike93lx]

While for some applications it doesn’t really matter and you get away with it (most likely as would be in the OP’s case), generally that is very bad advise and shouldn’t be done when using structural fasteners. The zip-tie (or whatever else is pushed into the hole) messes with load bearing capabilities and even worse, fire resistance.

If a (re-usable, in first place) fastener is worn to the point it doesn’t meet spec. anymore, it’s replaced. Some manufacturers offer sleeves to check for wear/ re-usability.

If the hole you are (re-)using is the cause of the problem, check if you were using the correct fastener for that material in first place.

—

To the OP, get the temp. car port first, look what methods of securing make the most sense. Couple of bricks, water or sand filled jugs, (…) might be more than enough. Some of these temp. structures have built in capabilities/ options to add weight.

Kind regards,
Olli

Agreed. I'd never do this for anything that matters. Hanging a picture in a block wall is one thing, but that's not what I use tapcon for

 

[Dumber than lumber]

I disagree with much of what has been said.
Hammer drill not necessary. Battery or cordless drill will work.
For drill bit a diamond hole saw will work. They are available in small diameters. Some of them have threaded mandrel that allows attachment to angle grinder.
A Redhead anchor down the hole. Or use lag shield anchors plus lag screws/bolts.
The diamond hole saw will last longer and work better if it is kept wet during operation.

 

[Lassen Forge]

In concrete, you can use a star drill and a 2# hammer, and get excellent results - takes a little time but I can't tell you the holes I did that way. then you can either go with redheads (mechanical expanding anchors) to anchor into the concrete, or (little pricier but I've staked my life on them on the bridge) encapsulated epoxy anchors.

From there, the world is your huckleberry, er, oyster, er, yeah.....

 

[mike93lx]

OP can't be bothered to respond with any more info? Good luck

 

[mikedodge]

If concrete hammer drill and masonry bit. It's not that hard to drill.

If asphalt anything will drill into it but you wouldn't want to be leaving anything jacked up long term on that.

 

[Beerhippie]

For asphalt, I use large nails. Just drive 'em in and they hold great. Put the nail at a ~45 degree angle away from the guy, just like a tent stake.

 

[Beerhippie]

No wind where you live huh?

Minimum I use when I can't drive anchors is a five gallon jug of water on each guy. A five gallon bucket of sand gives even more peace of mind, but I can just dump the water down the drain when I'm done, making loading up much easier.

 

[Hakeem]

While for some applications it doesn’t really matter and you get away with it (most likely as would be in the OP’s case), generally that is very bad advise and shouldn’t be done when using structural fasteners. The zip-tie (or whatever else is pushed into the hole) messes with load bearing capabilities and even worse, fire resistance.

If a (re-usable, in first place) fastener is worn to the point it doesn’t meet spec. anymore, it’s replaced. Some manufacturers offer sleeves to check for wear/ re-usability.

If the hole you are (re-)using is the cause of the problem, check if you were using the correct fastener for that material in first place.

—

To the OP, get the temp. car port first, look what methods of securing make the most sense. Couple of bricks, water or sand filled jugs, (…) might be more than enough. Some of these temp. structures have built in capabilities/ options to add weight.

Kind regards,
Olli

I disagree. Sometimes you have to remove and then reinstall something non structural that’s fastened to masonry, and drilling additional holes isn’t an option. They make specific plastic inserts for it but a zip tie works just fine. It’s code compliant in my jurisdiction (for fire resistance too), but maybe it’s different in your area. Always refer to your AHJ.

And of course I wouldn’t recommend it for structural or engineered applications. Didn’t think I’d have to add that caveat. But for something like EMT conduit or a carport, it’ll work just fine.

If you prefer to drill new holes instead, hey, that’s your prerogative.

No wind where you live huh?

I live in “The Windy City” and it’s always worked just fine for me at the beach or in a field. Your mileage may vary.

 

[Retired dozer fixer]

Why can’t a jack get rained on? Melt?Theft? Never heard of that

 

[KnurledNut]

Take a zip tie tail about the same length as the depth of the hole and put it in before reinserting the tapcon. It’ll give the screw something to ‘bite’ into.

OP: unless you’re looking for a semipermanent structure and/or live in a place with high winds, I’d just use bricks or gallon jugs filled with water to hold the legs of the carport down

If I was doing something temporary, I’d fasten it to something heavy, low profile and substantial in dimensions like concrete parking curbs or railroad ties.

 

[5ubtle]

OP is a troll.

 

[txvwnut]

A carport is not going to help your situation as rain will get under the carport and onto the QJ's.

 

[Nobody-named-Olli]

I disagree. Sometimes you have to remove and then reinstall something non structural that’s fastened to masonry, and drilling additional holes isn’t an option. They make specific plastic inserts for it but a zip tie works just fine. It’s code compliant in my jurisdiction (for fire resistance too), but maybe it’s different in your area. Always refer to your AHJ.

And of course I wouldn’t recommend it for structural or engineered applications. Didn’t think I’d have to add that caveat. But for something like EMT conduit or a carport, it’ll work just fine.

If you prefer to drill new holes instead, hey, that’s your prerogative.

Can you please provide a link for those “plastic inserts”, I’d like to check them out.

Especially on conduit it’s a big no-no. If that comes down during a fire because the zip-tie (or plastic dowel) melted and it takes out vital electrical circuits or comms before the applicable fire resistance threshold was met, you don’t want to be the guy (or company) that put them in that way.

If it doesn’t require a tapcon (or similar) in first place, there are a multitude of other options, that won’t have you dealing with any of this anyway.

Again, the general advise to line/sheath a worn out tapcon is very bad advise and it shouldn’t be done.


Kind regards,
Olli

 

[Cruzan80]

OP can't be bothered to respond with any more info? Good luck

OP is a troll.

In fairness, it has been less than 24hrs from the initial post...

 

[Zewnten]

In fairness, it has been less than 24hrs from the initial post...

Look through their post history. Either they are borderline helpless in over thinking every project they take on or they're trolling. I lean towards trolling.

 

[mike93lx]

In fairness, it has been less than 24hrs from the initial post...

He's been logged in and looking at the thread.

Quick response takes a couple seconds

 

[KnurledNut]

I disagree. Sometimes you have to remove and then reinstall something non structural that’s fastened to masonry, and drilling additional holes isn’t an option. They make specific plastic inserts for it but a zip tie works just fine. It’s code compliant in my jurisdiction (for fire resistance too), but maybe it’s different in your area. Always refer to your AHJ.

And of course I wouldn’t recommend it for structural or engineered applications. Didn’t think I’d have to add that caveat. But for something like EMT conduit or a carport, it’ll work just fine.

If you prefer to drill new holes instead, hey, that’s your prerogative.



I live in “The Windy City” and it’s always worked just fine for me at the beach or in a field. Your mileage may vary.

I’ve used copper wire for this.
Also two coated sinkers in a 1/4 hole will hold very well in a pinch.

 

[Beerhippie]

He's been logged in and looking at the thread.

Quick response takes a couple seconds

He's probably just enjoying the discord and thread drift.

 

[mike93lx]

He's probably just enjoying the discord and thread drift.

As trolls do

 

[Cruzan80]

He's been logged in and looking at the thread.

Quick response takes a couple seconds

Gotcha. I didn't check his history.

Just a gentle reminder overall that simply because lots of people post, doesnt mean the OP (in general, not this OP specifically) has checked back in. Some of us are on GJ far more than others.

That being said, I do also hate threads that start with a generality, and then never get more details to actually help the person with their issue.

 

[Beerhippie]

OP may not know the difference between concrete, asphalt and dirt/gravel. Or his *** and a hole in the ground.

 

[PCustoms]

OP may not know the difference between concrete, asphalt and dirt/gravel.

He hasn't started a thread about how to use a driveway yet?

 

[Cruzan80]

He hasn't started a thread about how to use a driveway yet?

You park on a driveway, but drive on a parkway...

 

[PCustoms]

You park on a driveway, but drive on a parkway...

What do you do on a thruway?

 

[David99]

Depending on the driveway size could you use something like this?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Vortex-...-Spiral-Ground-Anchor-ANCFR16-ORG-A/202703690

Couldn’t get a pic to post from the phone!

 

[darkzero]

Why can’t a jack get rained on? Melt?Theft? Never heard of that

Cause then it will no longer look brand new anymore.

 

[whateg01]

Depending on the driveway size could you use something like this?


Couldn’t get a pic to post from the phone!

What tool does op use to drive that into the driveway?

 

[darkzero]

He hasn't started a thread about how to use a driveway yet?

Or how about a thread about putting together a tool kit for use on the driveway. As in only on the driveaway cause everyone knows driveway use requires it's own set of tools/kit.

 

[whateg01]

Or how about a thread about putting together a tool kit for use on the driveway. As in only on the driveaway cause everyone knows driveway use requires it's own set of tools/kit.

I do kinda have a go bag of tools for use not at home that I tend to grab when I need to do something quick in the driveway. Does that count?