Non contact voltage tester

[Winterborne]

On older 277VAC electrical panels a shared neutral was common practice across each of the three phases. You can lock-out the correct breaker and verify line feed at 0VAC, while neutral backfeeding may still give you a jolt. If I remember correctly the Tic Tester would not alert on the neutral backfeeding.

 

[Beerhippie]

On older 277VAC electrical panels a shared neutral was common practice across each of the three phases. You can lock-out the correct breaker and verify line feed at 0VAC, while neutral backfeeding may still give you a jolt. If I remember correctly the Tic Tester would not alert on the neutral backfeeding.

NC testers I've used will still alert on a hot neutral. But, still, trust but verify before touching those contacts.

One of the better surprises I've had was a double-fed circuit in an old garage. The fixture I was replacing had nothing to ground--because the light switch was out--but when the neutral ware hit the case, the sparks flew. Didn't get buzzed up, but did get a good adrenaline rush.

The circuit was not just double-fed, but it was fed from two different breaker boxes. Took a while to sort that out. Got paid for a few more days to go through all the wiring in that old garage and make it halfway safe. It also had lots of common neutrals and hot grounds--something I absolutely hate.

 

[richfinn]

A lot of modern multimeters have non contact AC Voltage detection built in.

I love my Brymen BM037, it does more or less everything I need in a small package.

Brymen BM037 Clamp-On Multimeter

Brymen BM037 Clamp-On Multimeter

telonic.co.uk

 

[Milton Shaw]

As an appliance repair man I carried an Ideal non contact tester in my pocket every day. I used them to check appliances that did not come with cord attached for wrong connections. I found several over the years, one was a dryer that had 120 volts 30 amp on the cabinet from cord on wrong. It had rubbed through the paint and welded itself to the washer next to it and burned out the ground on the washer. That is the worst one I found, others just all metal carrying 120 volts but not grounded to washer, another was a refrigerator with the outlet wired wrong that was arcing when trying to hook up the copper water line. It was a safety and diagnostic tool for me. I found a lot that would have sinks close enough to be lethal if both touched at the same time. I also found a cook top that was wired to two different two pole circuits that one breaker would turn off the lights on unit but left everything under the top hot on the other breaker to kill you.

 

[swsman]

I have similar clamp meter like the one listed above, Klein in my case. Does non contact test.

Also have Klein stick and an older HF purchase from a few years back.

Anything that does not get used often gets batteries pulled. I do this with my digital tire gauges too.

So far so good, rewired a lots of light fixtures and outlets when I did commercial maintenance, and my house remodel. That cheap HF worked flawlessly.

Lethal voltage is where one goes for the meter, to be extra safe.

 

[Monte]

 

[AEAdam]

Never seen this one before, but noticing the MODE button which would probably be a deal killer for me.

Don’t want to mess with modes, just on and off. Realistically, I only ever turn mine on and it turns off automatically. I have the HD Klein posted above.

I think there is a new version that does more stuff. No thank you. Anything else it does has the potential to give me a false reading because I’m in the wrong mode. No thank you.

In addition to the ticker, I have a Klein outlet tester I plug into outlets to check polarity, ground etc. Thats VERY handy (not just for polarity).

Honestly, I’m a pretty good craftsman, carpenter, furniture maker, auto mechanic, machinist, wood turner….but an absolute dummy when it comes to electrical work. It’s almost unbelievable how bad I am. I took a community college class which helped build my confidence. Yet I destroyed a set of KNIPEX cutters a few months back when I cut thru a hot cable.

I try to stick with idiot proof electrical stuff, including strippers.

 

[rlitman]

Never seen this one before, but noticing the MODE button which would probably be a deal killer for me.

Don’t want to mess with modes, just on and off. Realistically, I only ever turn mine on and it turns off automatically. I have the HD Klein posted above.

I think there is a new version that does more stuff. No thank you. Anything else it does has the potential to give me a false reading because I’m in the wrong mode. No thank you...

It's not all that bad. That Bosch looks to be identical to the Klein that added the flashlight (NCVT3). I have the original Klein NCVT1 and the first multi-mode NCVT2 (no flashlight or other add-ons they're rolling into the NCVT4 series), and you won't get confused by the modes.

Basically if the green light is on at the tip, it's powered on and in regular line voltage mode. If the tip lights up blue, it's in the higher sensitivity mode for low voltage. I can't say I've used mine to test 24VAC control wires, but stuff like that and doorbell wiring should easily be in it's working range.

 

[mervyn]

Too many buttons.

 

[rlitman]

Too many buttons.

That's just getting started.

 

[Monte]

Never seen this one before, but noticing the MODE button which would probably be a deal killer for me.

Too many buttons.

It´s just "on/off", "flashlight on/off" and "mode" for switching between 90-1000 Volt or 24-1000 Volt (more sensitive).
It´s not that bad...........
It has a self check feature so the tool checks itself if it works correctly every 5 seconds (i don´t know how that works though), green light means no voltage present, red blinking light, buzzer and vibration means voltage present. IP67 protected.

 

[AEAdam]

It´s just "on/off", "flashlight on/off" and "mode" for switching between 90-1000 Volt or 24-1000 Volt (more sensitive).
It´s not that bad...........
It has a self check feature so the tool checks itself if it works correctly every 5 seconds (i don´t know how that works though), green light means no voltage present, red blinking light, buzzer and vibration means voltage present. IP67 protected.

That doesn’t sound too bad. Just a couple questions:

Assume this is designed for Europe. Is there a blinking red light for 220v euro power detection and a dull pinkish light for 110v?

Does the word “Schwach“ flash when it detects 110v?

Does the buzzer only work on 220v/50hz and an audible recording of someone sounding like Arnold Schwarzenegger saying “your circuits are puny“ for 110v?

 

[BreeStephany]

I do have a Klein non-contact voltage tester that I carry around at work, but the only thing I ever really use it for is using the fairly powerful laser pointer to help to point to routes or equipment on the ceiling from the floor and to quickly shoot a laser line for perspective conduit paths to double check there are no obstructions.

When it comes to voltage presence / de-energized status verification and troubleshooting, I always grab one of my many Fluke DMMs. I started my electrical career in industrial and work in industrial today, where voltages can range from 5VDC to 13.8kVAC / 25kVDC and have worked in even higher voltage environments, but the vast majority of my everyday work is 480VAC. Day 1 I was taught to throw my non-contact voltage 'tester' in the garbage and ONLY use a DMM or appropriate, industry trusted measurement equipment.

For me, it is and has always been Fluke. They always work and when they fail, they just fail, they don't 'kind of work' and give me a false sense of safety.

I am passionate about safety when it comes to electrical and in the almost 2 decades I have been an electrician, and being safe means working smart and using the right tools for the job.

Some say I'm a little too passionate about it when they see the "Remember, Electricity Will F***ing Kill You!" Reddy Killowatt tattoo on my shoulder.

Just my two cents.

 

[rlitman]

... IP67 protected.

That explains why they changed to the screw on battery cap. My older ones both still have the clip on cap/pocket-clip like the original NCVT1.

It does beg the question though of why you'd need IP67 for an electrical test tool.

 

[RTM]

It does beg the question though of why you'd need IP67 for an electrical test tool.

Standing outside in a deluge trying to start up 4x carbon purifiers, wondering why the one valve isn't indicating its status back to the PLC during the regeneration cycle? Didn't want to open the boxes, but the electrical guy's NC device picked up the problem thru the cable (he said).