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Ridgid 15 Ga Nailer...Am I Crazy?

Jbear

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Looking hard at the Ridgid. I was going to grab a DW or Milwaukee as I have batteries for all three platforms, but this Ridgid is really appealing in terms of weight and balance. It's got the lifetime warranty, but that's not something I'd like to rely on exercising. My other Ridgid tools are up and down. 1/4 impact is really nice, hammer drill is good, recip saw is so-so. If not the Ridge, I'm leaning Milwaukee as the DW is pretty bulky in comparison. Anyway...your experience makes for great reading, so...whatchoothink?
Thanks all!
 
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Jbear

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Well...we're doing a major renovation on an 1894 farmhouse, so...not building one but more like rebuilding one🤷‍♂️🤣And yes...they are expensive!
 

AEAdam

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I have the Milwaukee and I like it but….for A LOT of trim work, I prefer the narrow crown stapler. Not an either or, but if you are starting a big job, I’d go framing nailer first, narrow crown second, probably Romex stapler third, then the 15ga
 

nadogail

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I have a Harbor Freight 3 in 1 Framing Nailer (it is adjustable to 3 different angle nails) it has been very nice to be able to use any box of nails that are on sale and handy.
 
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Jbear

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While I'm not anti-HF, I don't really want to add another battery platform to the mix. I tend to keep HF as a source of back-up hand tools and stuff for working on the cars.
 

woody 73

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Funny story because I'm always on the lookout for nail guns that work, problem is no air supply to test them most times before I buy any, this is the fun part as I am finding small boxes of brand-new nails for not much money, and those suckers are expensive new.
 
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Jbear

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Not really looking to add another platform, but...anyone using the Senco F15XP? I don't seem to see anything recent about it anywhere.
 

MongoTA

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Got to the point where it was time to rebuild my air nail guns, so I thought I'd look at battery powered to make some small jobs easier.
I was fully on the Dewalt 20v platform, had been for decades. But when I looked at the DW cordless nail guns I found the DW guns to be unappealing. I went with Milwaukee. Been maybe 2 years, no regrets to date.

Aside: Battery adaptors, they have them for most brands. While the MKE nailgun kits I purchased came with their own respective 18v and 12v batteries, I also picked up one of these adaptors, maybe $6 if I remember correctly. Allows a DW 20V battery to power a MKE 18v tool. Because I don't know if or how battery management issues translate from a DW battery to the MKE tool during storage, to be on the safe side I don't leave them connected during storage, only while in use. The adaptor allows me to use DW batteries as a backup in case I get in a pinch.

Regardless, the adaptor might give you the freedom to use your existing batteries on a new line of tools, saving a few $$. I did have to be careful when buying, making sure I got a "DW battery to MKE tool" adaptor versus the other way around.

20250301_154138_resized.jpg

Adds about 1-1/4" to the height:
20250301_153806_resized.jpg
 
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Jbear

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How's the balance on that? Two things are steering me away from the DW guns, and one is the bulky profile. All nailers are bulky and have weight, but the DW seems even more so. I'm not experienced enough with them to know how that translates to actual use. They may be perfectly balanced and are fine for a full day, but I don't know (hence reaching out to you all). The second is the flywheel design v the Milwaukee, Senco and Ridgid (I believe) design.
It may just come down to grabbing one and making the best of it...they all seem quite capable.
 

AEAdam

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How's the balance on that? Two things are steering me away from the DW guns, and one is the bulky profile. All nailers are bulky and have weight, but the DW seems even more so. I'm not experienced enough with them to know how that translates to actual use. They may be perfectly balanced and are fine for a full day, but I don't know (hence reaching out to you all). The second is the flywheel design v the Milwaukee, Senco and Ridgid (I believe) design.
It may just come down to grabbing one and making the best of it...they all seem quite capable.
Agree. And let’s be clear about this: A 15ga nailer likely isn't something you will use all day like a framing nailer or coil nailer. You could run a 15ga nailer to shoot all the nails you need to shoot and never run out of batteries. So fundamentally, does it matter whose battery system you go with?

I run out of juice on all my saws, circular saws, jig saw rarely, sawzall for sure. I run out juice on drills and drivers. Swapping batteries between all those tools is really a game changer for me. Or least having spares. But my deal is, I run out of juice when I'm up a ladder, on a scaffold etc. So nice to yank a battery off something else I already have to finish whatever I'm doing.

I have 2 or 3 Milwaukee nailers. I power them with small 3amphr batteries and they pretty much never run out of juice.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Airdrie, Alberta, Canada
All my nailers are connected to air lines. I don't have a 15G nailer. But I do have framing nailers, coil siding nailers, roofing nailers, 16G nailers, 18G nailers, and a high end 23G nailer. I would be using the 23G nailer for trim as a first choice. Then the 18G. The reason is I don't have to fill holes before painting with the 23G. The 18 and 16 I have to fill holes.
 

jar944

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I have the Milwaukee and I like it but….for A LOT of trim work, I prefer the narrow crown stapler. Not an either or, but if you are starting a big job, I’d go framing nailer first, narrow crown second, probably Romex stapler third, then the 15ga

I never use a narrow crown for trim. Even a stock 18g leaves a excessive hole until you grind the drive pin down.
What would you choose now...knowing what you've learned. Stick w/ 16? Matter?

I prefer 15 over 16 just for the angled magazine. I only shoot 2.5" in the 15g. 18g for 1.25-2" which will be 80% of the time on trim.

23g is really best for holding things while the glue dries.
 

AEAdam

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Not sure if this will help or not:

For me, for basic framing, I use an air powered Hitachi framing nailer. I'm currently running of a California Air Tools 8010A and it's fine. For exterior siding, I have a Hitachi coil nailer and I love that thing.

For interior blocking and stuff, I actually use my pocket hole jig and screws. I toenail only very occasionally. I'll use screws more or Simpson strong tie clips places pro carpenters won't because they are expensive. But I don't care.

For exterior doors, I shim and use GRK screws. And I have trim head screws (also GRK) I sometimes use for exterior door stuff. I also love love the Simpson SWDS screws, which are killer expensive, but I like them.

For interior trim, on doors and windows, I haven't done THAT much of that, but I tend to use the narrow crown stapler for superior pull up. You just can't beat it. Downside is it requires wood filler, which isn't really the case for tiny brad nails. Paint usually fills those holes somewhat.

For the installation of interior doors, that's where I really use my 15ga nailer the most. Or anything like that that's semi structural.

I have air powered 18ga brad nailers (at least one) and I no longer use them. When you are firing brad nails, you need 3 or 10, not typically 1000. So its not worth it to me to get the hose.

The other tools that I love is just my M12 Milwaukee stapler for doing house wrap or that sort of stuff. I find a lot of uses for that, putting up plastic sheeting or .....Very handy.
 
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65ranchero

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Danville, VT left NJ forever
I purchased a 15-gauge Ridgid air nailer to replace another 15g one that failed.
I like it very much and the only reason I bought it was I had a excess amount of 15g nails and needed to finish a job.
The old gun had the rod that rams down the nail kept popping out of the track, took it apart and couldn't get it to work again.
No loss since it was part of a Home Depot 3-piece set (pancake comp. ,15g and a brad nailer)
 

KnurledNut

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I've been using Paslode cordless framing, trim and positive placement nailers ever since their inception.
It's what I am familiar with as I used them doing construction for many years.
I still prefer them because of the small battery/lightweight fuel cell design and good balance. I love the form factor of the battery chargers too. Very compact and lightweight for portability/storage.

I've primarily used 16ga and 18ga for trim nailers. Our crew had a 15ga cordless nailer and didn't care for the large nails so we never used it.
We used 23ga Grex pin nailers sometimes but this was before cordless options existed.
 
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Jbear

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Thank you all for sharing this stuff; I have lots to learn! We're gonna make a lot of mistakes but...it's all in da game...you hurd *:cool: .
* For any fellow fans of The Wire.
 

alinc100

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Dearborn,MI
Shop around. After reading this thread I went to HD website Ridgid with a 2.0 battery and charger is $322, $379 bare tool(makes no sense) The Milwaukee is $379 bare tool at HD. My Rakuten shopper app shows the Milwaukee is on sale at ACE hardware ,for rewards members(sign up is free) is $329. I have the Dewalt and it is bulky, as is the 18 ga brad nailer. I don't do enough trim anymore to switch to Milwaukee M18 as its the only major player battery platform I don't have. If it came in M12 I'd list the Dewalt for sale right after buying the Milwaukee.
Also I'd add, if you're not opposed to a small compressor and hoses Senco 15 ga air nailers are great, I've got two listed on Facebook marketplace (under $50) and not one inquiry. Not suggesting you should buy mine, just that they are available pretty cheap in this day and age.
 

CGT80

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You should have stated battery powered in the original post......unless they have both and you were open to either kind.

We have used pneumatic rigid framing, finish, and roofing nail guns professionally for years and found them to work well. Our medium crown stapler is makita pneumatic and it has been great.

My own framing and fishing nailers are nicad/gas paslode guns and my staplers and brad nailer is pneumatic.

I haven't used battery powered guns, but it would be convenient. My milwaukee 6.5" left blade m18 works great for framing, general use, and cutting aluminum or steel plate and I can freehand rip sheet materials and not be more than a 1/16" from the marked line. It isn't very often that we need the worm drive saws.

It is amazing how far battery powered tools have come since I started in the trades 30 years ago. In my shop, I constantly use compressed air, so it hasn't been replaced and corded angle grinders are far better and my orbital sander and makita 5" disc sander are corded.
 

AEAdam

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You should have stated battery powered in the original post......unless they have both and you were open to either kind.

We have used pneumatic rigid framing, finish, and roofing nail guns professionally for years and found them to work well. Our medium crown stapler is makita pneumatic and it has been great.

My own framing and fishing nailers are nicad/gas paslode guns and my staplers and brad nailer is pneumatic.

I haven't used battery powered guns, but it would be convenient. My milwaukee 6.5" left blade m18 works great for framing, general use, and cutting aluminum or steel plate and I can freehand rip sheet materials and not be more than a 1/16" from the marked line. It isn't very often that we need the worm drive saws.

It is amazing how far battery powered tools have come since I started in the trades 30 years ago. In my shop, I constantly use compressed air, so it hasn't been replaced and corded angle grinders are far better and my orbital sander and makita 5" disc sander are corded.
I wasn't sure about battery guns. I started with pneumatic guns, driven by a 5hp 25gallon craftsman compressor.

The battery guns can shoot hundreds and hundreds of nails to ridiculous consistent depths. The convenience on the job site can't be over stated. Not just for trim, but even just nailing a couple boards together temporarily, where you only need 2 nails and your nail bags have all the wrong nails and screw will split the work. Just so quick and easy.

One complaint about my Milwaukee 15ga gun is the on/off switch. It's a membrane style and I need my finger nail to turn it on, and it's harder with work gloves. My Milwaukee NCS has an actual round lighted button, which is far better.
 
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Jbear

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You should have stated battery powered in the original post......unless they have both and you were open to either kind.

We have used pneumatic rigid framing, finish, and roofing nail guns professionally for years and found them to work well. Our medium crown stapler is makita pneumatic and it has been great.

My own framing and fishing nailers are nicad/gas paslode guns and my staplers and brad nailer is pneumatic.

I haven't used battery powered guns, but it would be convenient. My milwaukee 6.5" left blade m18 works great for framing, general use, and cutting aluminum or steel plate and I can freehand rip sheet materials and not be more than a 1/16" from the marked line. It isn't very often that we need the worm drive saws.

It is amazing how far battery powered tools have come since I started in the trades 30 years ago. In my shop, I constantly use compressed air, so it hasn't been replaced and corded angle grinders are far better and my orbital sander and makita 5" disc sander are corded.
I thought listing my battery platforms made that obvious.
 

jar944

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What do you have now (nail gun wise)?

Imho for finish carpentry you need a couple 18s, a couple 23s and a 15 or 16. Personally I feel everyone should have a long nose upholstery stapler as well.
 

Hakeem

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Get the 18 before the 15
Yeah 15ga is an odd choice for a first nailer. The heads are too big for interior trim, i only see them used for hanging doors and some exterior trim applications.

Getting a full set of cordless nailers will probably set you back over $1000, I’d opt for refurbished pneumatic nailers and a pancake compressor for half the price.
 

AEAdam

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Was gonna ask about that...thanks!
If you are doing a home remodel, put the cost of the tools completely out of your head. Not relevant. Pneumatic trim nailers for a serious diyer are completely obsolete. I used a pneumatic pin nailer when I was shop based. No more. Only time I use air is when I’m shooting big stuff for long periods. What nail gun to buy is the wrong thread to post. Without more info, not being snarky, the right answer is really “all of them”. I don’t have stationary woodworking tools, but I think I begrudgingly have everything else.

Priority of tools depends 100% on the specific work statement. To say 18ga should be first is ridiculous. There is no one right answer. I started with a stable that I jacked back to level and plumb. Most important tools were shovels and wheelbarrows. Earlier structural work was sawzalls and SDWS screws, not nails.

Suppose the OP has a late Victorian, assume ballon framed plaster and lath walls and needs kitchen, bath, HVAC and electrical. Realistically, best thing to do is gut it. But if he isn’t reframing new walls, or if new framing is minimal, Id skip the nailers and use screws. Screws are slow and expensive, but better than nails in many ways.

Not knowing the project, I’d gut the interior, trying to save whatever floors, doors, stairs, trim I could. Round me, all that is Chestnut in the period and irreplaceable.

Then I’d focus on leveling shoring up floors, load bearing walls, and if balloon framed, installing fire breaks. I put stuff like that in with pocket hole screws. Reason for mentioning fire blocking is, once in place, I’d drill that for electric and pex, then fire foam those joints. Once you start running systems, if you want to add fire blocking or the code enforcement officer insists on it, you are out of luck. You’d have to spray foam it all.

This is just an example, but that’s how I’d look at it. I think the OP would be better off sharing his plans and letting us respond with suggestions.
 
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manwithtools

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Getting a full set of cordless nailers will probably set you back over $1000, I’d opt for refurbished pneumatic nailers and a pancake compressor for half the price.
I've got to voice a dissenting opinion on the above statement. Just like almost any corded tool, it's far more convenient (and safer) to have cordless and not drag a cord around. I find that to be even more true of pneumatic nailers, not dragging a hose is game changing, especially in hard to reach places or when working off a ladder.
 

Hakeem

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I've got to voice a dissenting opinion on the above statement. Just like almost any corded tool, it's far more convenient (and safer) to have cordless and not drag a cord around. I find that to be even more true of pneumatic nailers, not dragging a hose is game changing, especially in hard to reach places or when working off a ladder.

Safer in what way, tripping over a cord? I suppose you are correct but its not something I worry much about.

I never felt like it was too big of an encumbrance to use an air hose for major projects like this. There’s no furniture to snag the cord and no painted surfaces to worry about marring. You can leave the compressor/air hose there at the end of the day so lugging it up/down stairs isn’t really an issue. Air nailers are lighter, more durable, less expensive, and—in my experience, which is 5-6 years out of date by now—more reliable. Maybe the cordless nailers have gotten better since then.

Cordless nailers shine for punch list work, when you’re just shooting a few nails. In those cases setting the compressor and air hose up is a pain in the ***, I’ll agree. For bigger projects, the advantages of cordless are less significant to me.
 

manwithtools

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Safer in what way, tripping over a cord? I suppose you are correct but its not something I worry much about.

I never felt like it was too big of an encumbrance to use an air hose for major projects like this. There’s no furniture to snag the cord and no painted surfaces to worry about marring. You can leave the compressor/air hose there at the end of the day so lugging it up/down stairs isn’t really an issue. Air nailers are lighter, more durable, less expensive, and—in my experience, which is 5-6 years out of date by now—more reliable. Maybe the cordless nailers have gotten better since then.

Cordless nailers shine for punch list work, when you’re just shooting a few nails. In those cases setting the compressor and air hose up is a pain in the ***, I’ll agree. For bigger projects, the advantages of cordless are less significant to me.
Yes, safer because of no trip hazard. Go to any job site today and the exception high pressure (300 PSI + ) framing nailers in use by framers, almost every trim / finish carpenter is using cordless.
 
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Jbear

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I did see their stuff...thanks.
I'll try to lay out the scope and sequence of this reno when I can.
 
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