Best table saw blade (can I cut nails with it?)

[Sanderguy777]

I have an old King Seeley Craftsman table saw and I'm building my dad a shed. I need to make some rip cuts and the motor is only 1hp. I need to know what blade would be good and is it worth investing in a higher end blade or just getting a cheap one from Home Depot?

I have a couple blades for it as is, but they are dull and I'm not sure where to send them or how much resharpening costs.

 

[niget2002]

I've been using the diablo blades for a while. I have them on all my cutting saws (miter, table, circ). I wouldn't suggest cutting through nails with any table saw blade.

 

[Sanderguy777]

I've been using the diablo blades for a while. I have them on all my cutting saws (miter, table, circ). I wouldn't suggest cutting through nails with any table saw blade.

Same. Love diablo stuff. But I know there are better blades and I'm just curious if they are worth it for a weekend warrior.

As for the nails thing, I know it's not advised, but my diablo demo demon circ saw blades cut lengthwise through SCREWS and don't care, so I don't really understand why theor table saw blades can't? (I know the normal ones aren't made to, but I'm wondering if they make one that can).

 

[legenddc]

If you're doing rough construction work and not making fine furniture where you want to avoid tear out, I would just go with something like Diablo. A thin-kerf blade will bog down less if you're making cuts in thicker or harder wood.

Our Ace Hardware has a vendor who will come and sharpen your blades. I think it was $10-15 depending on the size and number of teeth.

 

[Sanderguy777]

If you're doing rough construction work and not making fine furniture where you want to avoid tear out, I would just go with something like Diablo. A thin-kerf blade will bog down less if you're making cuts in thicker or harder wood.

Our Ace Hardware has a vendor who will come and sharpen your blades. I think it was $10-15 depending on the size and number of teeth.

Now THAT is interesting. Might have a reason to go to Ace now!

Not everything I do is framing grade, but a good sharp circ blade also produces a fine enough finish that I'm happy with it

 

[tarmy]

You cutting nails is going to lead to a few chipped teeth. Diablo is fine for what you are going to do.

If you want glass smooth cuts get Oldham, CMT or other similar high end blades…they have larger carbide tips that take A new edge better too.

 

[Sanderguy777]

You cutting nails is going to lead to a few chipped teeth. Diablo is fine for what you are going to do.

If you want glass smooth cuts get Oldham, CMT or other similar high end blades…they have larger carbide tips that take A new edge better too.

Oh, I don't doubt that it will chip teeth in most (if not all) normal blades. I was specifically wondering if they make any like the diablo Demo Demon or Amped blades that eat nails for breakfast. We are building a shed and there are so many random screws and nails in some boards I want to be sure I don't ruin a blade.

Are Freud\diablo blades BAD, or just smaller teeth?

 

[Firebrick43]

Are Freud\diablo blades BAD, or just smaller teeth?

Smaller and cheaper carbide teeth.

They are not bad per se but they are not ridge carbide, forrest, or amana either. They have huge carbide teeth in comparison that takes a finer edge and can be resharpened dozens of times.

Diablo are just tossed instead or resharpening. One tends to cry if they wreck a 150 dollar plus blade on a nail

 

[tarmy]

Oh, I don't doubt that it will chip teeth in most (if not all) normal blades. I was specifically wondering if they make any like the diablo Demo Demon or Amped blades that eat nails for breakfast. We are building a shed and there are so many random screws and nails in some boards I want to be sure I don't ruin a blade.

Are Freud\diablo blades BAD, or just smaller teeth?

They are fine for their intended task. Cheaper construction level blades. They do have some nice table saw blades but they, like any company, charge more. If you go into a woodworking shop and look at top line blades they are beefier and like I said…bigger chunks of carbide.

You get to pay more too. The new Oldham blades are like Diablo. My old ones were like 200 bucks 20 years ago and are great blades. Forrest make good blades as well

 

[Sanderguy777]

They are fine for their intended task. Cheaper construction level blades. They do have some nice table saw blades but they, like any company, charge more. If you go into a woodworking shop and look at top line blades they are beefier and like I said…bigger chunks of carbide.

You get to pay more too. The new Oldham blades are like Diablo. My old ones were like 200 bucks 20 years ago and are great blades. Forrest make good blades as well

I have a couple like that from a shop teacher I have. I think they need sharpening, but I have them. I'll probably just have them resharpened and skip trying to make those cuts on that saw.

I would think they would have that for miter saws since they have a higher chance.

 

[nadogail]

I have had good service from the blades I purchased from Harbor Freight.

 

[neophyte]

You’re “building a shed”.
A Home Depot/Lowes blade will be fine, and exactly what should be used.
If cutting pine, or other common softwood, like Douglas Fir, use a teflon coated blade, since pitch build up can be an issue.
The “ultra high end” woodworking blades are really designed for production shops, that will send blades out for sharpening, and for uses where an ultra fine finish cut is desired right off the blade, ie. uses such as picture framing, finish carpentry, high end furniture, etc.
A courser lower tooth count with a teflon coated blade, and s thinner kerf, will be better for your task.
I wouldn’t worry too much about the horsepower rating on a saw using an induction motor, unless you’re trying to cut thru 2”+ of well seasoned white oak.

 

[mike93lx]

I've run demolition blades in my circular saws that have cut lots of nails and screws and still work. No idea what makes the hold up since my table saw blades seem to completely give up the ghost when nicking a trim nail

 

[Sanderguy777]

I've run demolition blades in my circular saws that have cut lots of nails and screws and still work. No idea what makes the hold up since my table saw blades seem to completely give up the ghost when nicking a trim nail

Exactly! And what's worse is that I've used the old $10 diablo 7.25" blades and the $60+ Diablo 10" blades and still had the same experience.

I know they MAKE blades that theoretically work for nails, but I think they're CMT and are multi material or something iirc. As someone pointed out, hitting a nail with a circ saw, or even a miter saw, might be less dangerous than with a table saw.

 

[Sanderguy777]

You’re “building a shed”.
A Home Depot/Lowes blade will be fine, and exactly what should be used.
If cutting pine, or other common softwood, like Douglas Fir, use a teflon coated blade, since pitch build up can be an issue.
The “ultra high end” woodworking blades are really designed for production shops, that will send blades out for sharpening, and for uses where an ultra fine finish cut is desired right off the blade, ie. uses such as picture framing, finish carpentry, high end furniture, etc.
A courser lower tooth count with a teflon coated blade, and s thinner kerf, will be better for your task.
I wouldn’t worry too much about the horsepower rating on a saw using an induction motor, unless you’re trying to cut thru 2”+ of well seasoned white oak.

Yeah, I don't need anything more than the $50 blade for this project, but I've noticed how much better the $15-20 diablo demo demon blades are than the cheapo basic so Diablo framing blades that it made me wonder if they made a bigger version for nail embedded wood. It's not like this isn't a problem, loot at the metal detector wands they sell at woodcraft. People reclaim lumber all the time and not having to worry about it would sure be nice.

 

[larry_g]

I have an older craftsman table saw. One thing I do to make up for the lack of power is use a smaller diameter blade.

 

[Sanderguy777]

I have an older craftsman table saw. One thing I do to make up for the lack of power is use a smaller diameter blade.

LOL. Yeah, but the last cut I was trying to make was an angled rip through the 3.5" dimension of a 2x4. The 10" blade didn't even do it, much less an 8"

 

[Steve_P]

Another vote for Diablo but I'm not going to vouch for surviving nails other than as shown on a circular saw in the Project Farm test. I essentially cut nothing but pine and have never had any issues with buildup mentioned above, but maybe if you're making cuts every twenty seconds all day it's an issue. The ones I buy aren't worth sharpening as the sharpening cost and gas is as much or more than a new blade sells for, not including an hour of my time to go there twice.

 

[seber]

90% of the cut quality is the saw and the setup. Don't waste money on an expensive blade for a cheap saw.

 

[RTM]

LOL. Yeah, but the last cut I was trying to make was an angled rip through the 3.5" dimension of a 2x4. The 10" blade didn't even do it, much less an 8"

My old CMan saw can run a 12", 4x4 rough cut lumber, no problem.

 

[Sanderguy777]

My old CMan saw can run a 12", 4x4 rough cut lumber, no problem.

Someone made a 24" saw once too, and that one handles 8x8s

I've been tempted to try putting a 12" blade on it, but never thought it would end well.

 

[Sanderguy777]

90% of the cut quality is the saw and the setup. Don't waste money on an expensive blade for a cheap saw.

The saw wasn't expensive, but it's from the 50s or 60s, so it's not junk, either.

I would also argue that once the blade isn't wobbling and the fence is parallel, the blade IS the major factor since it's what does the cutting. The whole system is important, but my experience with multi tools and jigsaws was that good blades made a HUGE difference to cut quality.

 

[RTM]

90% of the cut quality is the saw and the setup. Don't waste money on an expensive blade for a cheap saw.

I had a $hit sharpening job destroy my quality of cut on my Craftsman contractors saw. My glue ready cut went to bad quality. Took my blade to a local carbide shop, he put the dial indicator on the edge, and the tips of 3 or 4 were left higher/ wider than others. He sharpened it right, and made it better than before.