To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Between 705 & 1200 SQ/FT The Hobby Shop - Down in the Holler (24'x32')

Workspaces between 705 and 1200 squarefeet.
OP
M

Magneto

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 10, 2013
Messages
251
Location
"Relocated from VT to Middle TN"
Installed the electrical/CAT6 conduits. Purchased the Pella windows.

Acquired three estimates to have a 32’ X 24’ slick 4” slab poured at 4000psi (about 10 yards) The requirements of the estimates needed to include the following; check for final grade (I have a pile of 1/2” stone if any areas need leveling), pumper truck needed, fill the interior of the cinder blocks not already done (3 to 4 yards), All 3 estimates range between $6500 to $6900. WOW! Frankly, I wasn’t expecting that much.

IMG_2319.jpegIMG_2315.jpegIMG_2312.jpeg
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

madison069

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 5, 2010
Messages
4,348
Location
Monroeville, PA
Installed the electrical/CAT6 conduits. Purchased the Pella windows.

Acquired three estimates to have a 32’ X 24’ slick 4” slab poured at 4000psi (about 10 yards) The requirements of the estimates needed to include the following; check for final grade (I have a pile of 1/2” stone if any areas need leveling), pumper truck needed, fill the interior of the cinder blocks not already done (3 to 4 yards), All 3 estimates range between $6500 to $6900. WOW! Frankly, I wasn’t expecting that much.

IMG_2319.jpegIMG_2315.jpegIMG_2312.jpeg
I'd be all over that price for that much concrete. That works out to $9 a sqft. But I would go thicker for the floor, at least 5".
 
OP
M

Magneto

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 10, 2013
Messages
251
Location
"Relocated from VT to Middle TN"
I'd be all over that price for that much concrete. That works out to $9 a sqft. But I would go thicker for the floor, at least 5".

I played around with the DUCK browser AI program after your response and it agrees with you. $9 bucks a sqft is in the medium range. The estimates I received appear to be on point. How the times/costs have changed since my last build in 2013. I'm considering your recommendation of a 5" slab. It would be an additional 2 yards of cement. The benefits of 5" vs. 4" are appealing.


slab.jpg
 

madison069

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 5, 2010
Messages
4,348
Location
Monroeville, PA
You couldn’t compare 2019 prices with today’s price. I cringe about how much i will spend on concrete compare to what it would have cost in 2019.
 

Overboost44

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 29, 2020
Messages
122
Location
MD
Done spreading stone. We are on the money. Slab pour scheduled for next Monday. That should give this last layer of stone some time to settle in. Getting closer to framing.

dd.jpg

d.jpg
How much stone did it end up taking? What depth? Are you tamping it or did they do that for you? My garage will be 26x32, so I am watching with interest.
 
OP
M

Magneto

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 10, 2013
Messages
251
Location
"Relocated from VT to Middle TN"
How much stone did it end up taking? What depth? Are you tamping it or did they do that for you? My garage will be 26x32, so I am watching with interest.
LOTS OF STONE! About 60 ton. There were 3 tri-axle dump truck loads each carrying 20 tons of 3/4”stone that dropped their loads on a level lot down the road from me. My concrete driveway would not support that much weight without damage. That stone was shuttled with a smaller dump truck driving across my lower driveway and up the front lawn to minimize any driveway damage. So far, so good. The back of my shop is 8 block courses high (64”) and the front is 3 blocks. The stone was inserted in stages over a course of 10 days. Each layer was watered with sprinkler or rain which helps the stone to settle. There is a positive drain on the back wall. The Mini-X did the compacting. It’s a strong base. We also brought in a load of 1/2“ stone for final grade if the cement guys need it.
 

Overboost44

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 29, 2020
Messages
122
Location
MD
LOTS OF STONE! About 60 ton. There were 3 tri-axle dump truck loads each carrying 20 tons of 3/4”stone that dropped their loads on a level lot down the road from me. My concrete driveway would not support that much weight without damage. That stone was shuttled with a smaller dump truck driving across my lower driveway and up the front lawn to minimize any driveway damage. So far, so good. The back of my shop is 8 block courses high (64”) and the front is 3 blocks. The stone was inserted in stages over a course of 10 days. Each layer was watered with sprinkler or rain which helps the stone to settle. There is a positive drain on the back wall. The Mini-X did the compacting. It’s a strong base. We also brought in a load of 1/2“ stone for final grade if the cement guys need it.
That's a lot of stone. An internet calc shows me that I need about 23 tons to fill 26x32 at 6" deep. 17 yards. Your actual usage makes me question the internet :unsure:
 
OP
M

Magneto

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 10, 2013
Messages
251
Location
"Relocated from VT to Middle TN"
That's a lot of stone. An internet calc shows me that I need about 23 tons to fill 26x32 at 6" deep. 17 yards. Your actual usage makes me question the internet :unsure:

i stand corrected, my GC told me it was 92 tons of stone. While I was on my 2 week motorcycle trip he had 2 more tri-axle dump loads. Also the 2 large slabs of concrete driveway that was removed and placed inside the foundation.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
M

Magneto

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 10, 2013
Messages
251
Location
"Relocated from VT to Middle TN"
Prepping for the slab. Cut rebar and drilled holes in block for placement. Installed 3 anchor plates with 6 foot all-thread rods through the back wall to tie into the rebar and slab.

Plastic vapor barrier will go down first. The grid metal will be rolled out on top. The rebar will go next supported by plastic rebar chairs. All will be tied together with wire. Overkill??

All this will be encased in 5” (Thanks Cody) of 4000 psi concrete. The remaining cavities in block wall will be filled with concrete.


IMG_2337.jpegIMG_2339.jpegIMG_2336.jpegIMG_2342.jpegIMG_2343.jpeg
 
Last edited:

Overboost44

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 29, 2020
Messages
122
Location
MD
Prepping for the slab. Cut rebar and drilled holes in block for placement. Installed 3 anchor plates with 6 foot all-thread rods through the back wall to tie into the rebar and slab.

Plastic vapor barrier will go down first. The grid metal will be rolled out on top. The rebar will go next supported by plastic rebar chairs. All will be tied together with wire. Overkill??

All this will be encased in 5” (Thanks Cody) of 4000 psi concrete. The remaining cavities in block wall will be filled with concrete.


IMG_2337.jpegIMG_2339.jpegIMG_2336.jpegIMG_2342.jpegIMG_2343.jpeg
I haven't seen the all-thread rod used before. Is that just to tie the walls in? I don't see a vapor barrier yet, or did you just lay this down to get an idea of the finished product. What are you using for vapor barrier? Are you putting down any insulation?
 

madison069

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 5, 2010
Messages
4,348
Location
Monroeville, PA
Prepping for the slab. Cut rebar and drilled holes in block for placement. Installed 3 anchor plates with 6 foot all-thread rods through the back wall to tie into the rebar and slab.

Plastic vapor barrier will go down first. The grid metal will be rolled out on top. The rebar will go next supported by plastic rebar chairs. All will be tied together with wire. Overkill??

All this will be encased in 5” (Thanks Cody) of 4000 psi concrete. The remaining cavities in block wall will be filled with concrete.


IMG_2337.jpegIMG_2339.jpegIMG_2336.jpegIMG_2342.jpegIMG_2343.jpeg

Not overkill, just be sure the rebars are not in a place where you might want to anchor to the floor one day. Looking good!

Here is what my floor looked like before the pour. 7” of concrete in the rear with 2 rows of rebar and wire panels. Then as it progressed to the front it was 5” of concrete at the garage doors and only wire panels used in the front half of the floor. No cracks except at the expansion joints I saw some before sealing and it’s been 2 years now.
IMG_4326.png
 
OP
M

Magneto

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 10, 2013
Messages
251
Location
"Relocated from VT to Middle TN"
I haven't seen the all-thread rod used before. Is that just to tie the walls in? I don't see a vapor barrier yet, or did you just lay this down to get an idea of the finished product. What are you using for vapor barrier? Are you putting down any insulation?
Exactly, using all-thread to just tie everything together. Vapor barrier is just regular construction grade 6mil plastic. Debated on the insulation, I didn’t use it on my first shop build and heating & cooling efficiency/costs were all good. Passed on it this time as well.
 

Overboost44

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 29, 2020
Messages
122
Location
MD
Exactly, using all-thread to just tie everything together. Vapor barrier is just regular construction grade 6mil plastic. Debated on the insulation, I didn’t use it on my first shop build and heating & cooling efficiency/costs were all good. Passed on it this time as well.
Understood on the insulation. I calculate it will be $2400 for my 900 sq ft.
 
OP
M

Magneto

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 10, 2013
Messages
251
Location
"Relocated from VT to Middle TN"
Not overkill, just be sure the rebars are not in a place where you might want to anchor to the floor one day. Looking good!

Here is what my floor looked like before the pour. 7” of concrete in the rear with 2 rows of rebar and wire panels. Then as it progressed to the front it was 5” of concrete at the garage doors and only wire panels used in the front half of the floor. No cracks except at the expansion joints I saw some before sealing and it’s been 2 years now.
IMG_4326.png
I’m about 10 pages into reading your shop build thread. Very nice job! The decision I need to make before Monday is, do I want expansion joints cut into the floor. I had them in my old workshop and never had any cracks in the 10 years before I sold it. My GC said I can guarantee you two things about concrete, it will get hard and it will crack. I built my house in VT in 1990 and the unheated garage slab (fiber enforced) never had any cracks despite the extreme temps in that state. Maybe I was lucky.
 

madison069

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 5, 2010
Messages
4,348
Location
Monroeville, PA
We knew my floor was going to crack due to the two differences in sub bases. As expected it cracked along that expansion joint that’s on top of the middle wall. Hasn’t gotten bigger since I filled the expansion joints.
 

Xti04

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 11, 2016
Messages
2,415
Cut the joints but plan for where your lift needs to be the guys who cut mine didnt listen and it threw my placement off a bit.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom