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Automotive hose clamps what are good stainless ones?

rodm1

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Joined
Feb 17, 2008
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2,275
Looking to replace my rusting out hose clamps on my truck. What are good stainless clamps to get not looking for the cheep worm drive kind but quality ones would be grate.
 
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Rusted Nut

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Dec 11, 2022
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1,855
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Northern Arizona
These folks make very good clamps.

 

Dave455

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Joined
Mar 19, 2013
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5,842
Location
Sussex, England
One of my pet peeves is crappy hose clamps, particularly the wire type that damage hoses, so I regularly replace them with decent ones, supplies of which I keep on hand!

I favour the genuine “Jubilee” clips. The quality is superb and they are priced reasonably. They are, however a British manufacturer (the inventors of the worm drive hose clip in fact) and I don’t know what availability is like in the US.

The advantage to Jubilee, is that they offer a lot of stainless. There is a choice of 304 or 316 grade stainless (the latter is marine grade). I use the 304 for external appplications and have had no issues.
IMG_3573.jpeg

If needed, they also offer their “Superclamps” in stainless.
IMG_3572.jpeg

Sadly, anything imported is likely to be more expensive than domeestic, although the same can be said for Norma, which I have also found to be acceptable.
 

theoldwizard1

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Feb 22, 2011
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43,489
Location
SE MI
One thing that bothers me about "worm gear" clamps is that so many people OVER TIGHTEN them !

For very low pressure/vacuum spring hose clamps are cheap and adequate. I have an assortment of sizes.
Screenshot 2026-08-09 104950.png
 
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strutaeng

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Joined
Dec 12, 2011
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2,325
Location
Dallas, TX
I also like the Ideal stainless steel hose clamps, Made in the USA. I buy them at Lowe's. They are also wider so they distribute the pressure better around the hose.

I know they say the constant tension clamps are better, but sometimes getting those little ears to expand (or they don't expand enough) is such a PIA. For those situations I change over to hose clamps. I've never had a hose leak at the barb fitting TBH.

Easy to access areas like the top radiator hoses, I've kept/reused the factory clamps.
 
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LXCam

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Apr 23, 2013
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19,347
Location
AZ
Thanks for the suggestion CG, those look like a great solution for a clean installation on the rare occasions I stay with rubber hose over braided / AN fittings.

When I do electrical harnesses I use shrink tube with adhesive for my sheathing termination points. I might try this and see if it’s a cleaner look.
 

CGarage

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Joined
Nov 23, 2018
Messages
3,163
Location
United States/Switzerland
Thanks for the suggestion CG, those look like a great solution for a clean installation on the rare occasions I stay with rubber hose over braided / AN fittings.

When I do electrical harnesses I use shrink tube with adhesive for my sheathing termination points. I might try this and see if it’s a cleaner look.


There is a variety pack you can order which has the thermoplastic clamps contained in a box in a variety of sizes. This was most helpful. I found I could use a slightly smaller ID clamp for my application, and if I just used the standard measurements to determine size, I would have ended up ordering a larger clamp. The smaller clamp ended up fitting better.

Do observe the manufacturer recommended thermoplastic clamp temp recommendations when using the heat gun, also.
 

Steve_P

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Joined
Sep 15, 2010
Messages
5,226
Tridon used to be the standard in the US for quality worm drive, but dunno about today with all the offshoring.

The OE style constant tension clamps work just fine for me. I've changed one on a lower radiator hose because it had some rust, but it also had ~150K miles.

They make fancy screwed band type constant tension clamps that use a spring, these are common in the aftermarket turbocharged world, but that will be expensive.
 

sz0k30

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2014
Messages
889
Location
SE Michigan
What the hell do you guys do to damage hoses? Been using basic worm clamps for 50 years and never damaged a hose because of them.
 

NHtoolguy

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Joined
Mar 4, 2018
Messages
345
Location
Gilford, NH
For worm drive clamps, I prefer the lined type that won't allow rubber from the hose to extrude through the pierced holes, or the Norma style with formed (not pierced) bands. I also try to buy all-stainless ones. I don't like the look of rusty worm screws. One real pet peeve of mine are clamps that are too big for the application, which result in long exposed bands when tightened. Buy the right size, for goodness sake! About 1/4 inch of protrusion when tight looks great.
 

mikey03

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Joined
May 17, 2024
Messages
2,201
If constant tension clamps are good enough for OEM's they're good enough for you. McMaster-Carr sells them. https://www.mcmaster.com/products/constant-tension-hose-clamps/
It’s not that they good enough it’s that they superior from what I’m told since they can expand and contract with respect to heat cycles compared to worm clamp the coolant gets hot and the hose expands into the worm clamp which is now too tight for it and does a small amount of damage to the to the hose that cumulates over time.

Or you tighten it when it’s warm and now it compresses when cold and the worm clamp is too loose.

You guys don’t think the OE factories know that $1 worm drive clamps exist if they were better?
 

Firebird1975

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Joined
Feb 16, 2017
Messages
65
Location
MA/NH Border
I had purchased some overpriced reproduction tower clamps for my classic Pontiac a few years ago. They looked good but seemed to consistently loosen up over time In the end I pulled them off and replaced them with the 25-year-old Made in the USA stainless worm clamps that was previously on the car.
 

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