To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Above 1200 Sq/FT The Suburban Working Garage in VA...now building the Highland House in the Teton Valley

Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

swsman

Well-known member
Joined
May 5, 2021
Messages
724
Location
Earthbound
I would go used-well maintained tractor/snow blower implement, with the tire chains route.
Even better if you can score additional implements with it.

Will be very usable on your property, vs just a snow machine. Of course make sure it has a cab for that climate.
 

jake28

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 28, 2018
Messages
491
Location
SF, CA
Re: snow clearing
1. Would you be plowing your own driveway?
And
2. What do you think the seasonal price for plowing the red road will be? It’s a straight shot and not very long.

I would expect snow removal to be one of the primary responsibilities of the HOA. My neighborhood has 65 lots and 58 homes, and 3 miles of roads that need to get plowed. It’s Tahoe, so feast or famine where we might not a dusting for two months and then get 4 feet of cement in a weekend.

Historically the HOA tried to pro-rate the plowing costs based on how far the house was from the entry gate. They led to vastly different costs for different home owners, and much grumbling.

Now the annual snow removal is split evenly by everyone with a lot, independent of location or whether or not the lot is built on. Simple, clean.

Most snow removal contracts are a fixed cost of (x) inches of snow accumulation in a given time period and then on demand at an agreed upon rate per clearing after that.
 
Last edited:

legenddc

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 19, 2012
Messages
1,082
I feel like homeowners insurance wouldn’t be too thrilled that the roads aren’t kept clear in case there’s an emergency. No idea what it’s like out there.
 

badonk

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 20, 2011
Messages
234
Re: snow removal - keeping certain roads clear is part of the HOA contract every land-owner signed? If that's the case, people with vacant land are lucky that there haven't been charges to clear the roads specified in the HOA contract...since that happens to be because nobody lives there in the winter and it'd be a waste of $$$. I'd demand the HOA start getting it done if you need it. If dues need to go up for all to cover that then so be it.

Since buying my land in Colorado years ago my HOA dues covered road clearing. Our HOA also covers driveway clearing but the additional HOA dues only kicked in once I had a COA. My builder charged me for clearing my driveway during the build...they charged for everything.

Next question is how you plan to keep your driveway clear. Maybe there's some middle ground. I have a friend in Canada that bought some equipment to clear his driveway, but plus sized it to take care of his neighbors. Later he got the HOA to cut him a break since he kept some of the roads clear too. It is his primary house so he can handle it after any snowfall.

It sounds like you'll be there from time to time but not full time, so even if you choose to do it yourself while you are there, how will you manage it while you are not there? Lots to manage with a mountain property.
 
OP
N

Nolift911

Well-known member
Joined
May 16, 2011
Messages
1,028
Location
Lansdowne, VA
Re: snow clearing
1. Would you be plowing your own driveway?
And
2. What do you think the seasonal price for plowing the red road will be? It’s a straight shot and not very long.

I would expect snow removal to be one of the primary responsibilities of the HOA. My neighborhood has 65 lots and 58 homes, and 3 miles of roads that need to get plowed. It’s Tahoe, so feast or famine where we might not a dusting for two months and then get 4 feet of cement in a weekend.

Historically the HOA tried to pro-rate the plowing costs based on how far the house was from the entry gate. They led to vastly different costs for different home owners, and much grumbling.

Now the annual snow removal is split evenly by everyone with a lot, independent of location or whether or not the lot is built on. Simple, clean.

Most snow removal contracts are a fixed cost of (x) inches of snow accumulation in a given time period and then on demand at an agreed upon rate per clearing after that.

@jake28 – All great questions. I think everything revolves around me being the first full-time resident in the neighborhood. I don't think the HOA documents ever contemplated a scenario where there would be just one family living there versus 1–5, 5–10, and so on to help share the costs.

It also seems to be feast or famine when it comes to snow around here. In the five-plus years since we bought the property, we've only had one winter where we couldn't get in while visiting. Our primary issue isn't necessarily the snowfall itself—it's the drifting. Some of the drifts can be massive, so if you don't stay ahead of the snow with regular plowing, you end up needing heavy equipment to clear it, which is a whole different level of effort and expense.

More to come on this. We were supposed to have our annual HOA meeting, and I'm pretty sure this will be the elephant in the room.

I feel like homeowners insurance wouldn’t be too thrilled that the roads aren’t kept clear in case there’s an emergency. No idea what it’s like out there.

Shhhhhh......

Re: snow removal - keeping certain roads clear is part of the HOA contract every land-owner signed? If that's the case, people with vacant land are lucky that there haven't been charges to clear the roads specified in the HOA contract...since that happens to be because nobody lives there in the winter and it'd be a waste of $$$. I'd demand the HOA start getting it done if you need it. If dues need to go up for all to cover that then so be it.

Since buying my land in Colorado years ago my HOA dues covered road clearing. Our HOA also covers driveway clearing but the additional HOA dues only kicked in once I had a COA. My builder charged me for clearing my driveway during the build...they charged for everything.

Next question is how you plan to keep your driveway clear. Maybe there's some middle ground. I have a friend in Canada that bought some equipment to clear his driveway, but plus sized it to take care of his neighbors. Later he got the HOA to cut him a break since he kept some of the roads clear too. It is his primary house so he can handle it after any snowfall.

It sounds like you'll be there from time to time but not full time, so even if you choose to do it yourself while you are there, how will you manage it while you are not there? Lots to manage with a mountain property.

I would describe our HOA as more of a summer lemonade stand operation at this point. My guess is that, as a full-time resident, I'll probably end up stepping into a leadership role somewhere down the road. Leadership seems to change frequently due to people moving away, losing interest, or, unfortunately, passing away.

In my opinion, the HOA fees also need to increase—substantially. If the goal is to properly maintain and support the development as more homes are built and occupied, the current fee structure just isn't going to be sufficient.

In other news, there is plenty of work to do on the Disco. It's usually been a good egg, but lately it seems like one thing breaks right after another.

The latest issue is a water leak from the roof. Right now it appears to be coming from the driver's-side front corner, but as I always tell anyone chasing leaks on these trucks, the headliner acts like a bowl. Depending on where the water enters, how the truck is parked, and how it moves, the obvious source often isn't the actual source.

The first suspects are usually the sunroofs, so that's where I'll start. I went through and resealed everything about five years ago, so I'm hoping it's something relatively simple like a clogged or disconnected sunroof drain rather than something more involved.

So the headliner - not complicated just fussy bits that break easy after 25 years. Most of these parts are a install and take a part once maybe twice type deal. This is easliy my 10th time dropping this thing.

PXL_20260722_160048938.jpg

No need to remove the top tray - that is sealed to the roof - no leaks - tested thoroughly with the hose. Glass lifts out.

PXL_20260722_194639580.jpg

But I did drop the bottom tray -

PXL_20260722_194629915.jpg

And had a "spare sunroof assembly" for parts...

PXL_20260722_180847741.jpg

PXL_20260722_182249473.jpg

Always fun to see where folks have had these taped up to prevent leaks..."that is not your problem, it does not leak there..."

PXL_20260722_180922708.jpg

PXL_20260722_181026603.jpg

They are designed to leak at the glass to rubber seal, heance the drain tray and drains throughout the cabin. You can actually see light from the glass to the rubber seal, by design.

Here are the buckets in the corners -

PXL_20260722_181612178.jpg

Anyway mine could use some new rail guides so as good of a time as any - I picked up some new OEM NOS rails a few years back as they have the bits that wear out...

PXL_20260722_195040811.jpg

Knackered -

PXL_20260722_195055634.jpg

New

PXL_20260722_195108339.jpg

Install is easy, 3 bolts and feed the guide, wire, screw worm deal into the channel...

PXL_20260722_195600262.jpg

Most important part of this equation...these little gibblers...

PXL_20260723_153536971.jpg

They go here...and slide in that groove.

PXL_20260722_182053410.jpg

When your sunroof is rattling, not opening correctly, jamming etc...that is becuase you have one of these little gibblers, sad and wadded up at the back of the channel shattered into two pieces, just like this guy. No bueno.


PXL_20260722_182048143.jpg

Anyway - and not even to fixing the leak yet...
 
OP
N

Nolift911

Well-known member
Joined
May 16, 2011
Messages
1,028
Location
Lansdowne, VA
When it rains, it pours. Hopefully that will be the end of the disco issues. Being HOA president might not be a bad gig while being the only one out there.

When it rains it pours...Literally - :)

PXL_20260723_170046155.jpg


Ok so on to the leak - not the sunroofs. It is coming from the corner upper header of the driver side. Issue is there are so many overlapping pieces, pinch welds, sealant etc, tough to to know where exactly.

Basically here...and yes those are cut sunroof drains, so I could blow them out, will reattach. Not the problem.

PXL_20260701_153925977.jpg

Here is where the water is coming from...over time seam sealer cracks, pinch and spot welds loosen etc. I could slather that with 3M urethane but I want to find the source.

PXL_20260722_165319924.jpg

Remove a-pillar trim...

PXL_20260722_160032768.jpg

PXL_20260722_160226663.jpg

No smoking gun - just windshield goop and not leaking down here anyway.

PXL_20260722_164236981.jpg

So I have been driving around like this for a few weeks, testing etc. With the upper drip rail trim off and the A-pillar trim off I figure if it does not leak with those off I am good.

Going to be certain before that headliner goes back in... :cool:

PXL_20260728_195916244.jpg

Used a brass 3/8 barb for the drain reconnect...not leaking.

PXL_20260701_153856037.jpg
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

pima67

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 5, 2009
Messages
323
Location
Tucson, AZ
Probably a good idea to get more involved in the HOA. One thing to check out is if the HOA is funding a reserve fund to cover any future repairs/replacements for HOA owned roads, utilities etc. For example, Without a reserve fund the HOA might have to do a special assessment to repair road damage caused by plowing or some other delivery/construction workers.
 
OP
N

Nolift911

Well-known member
Joined
May 16, 2011
Messages
1,028
Location
Lansdowne, VA
Probably a good idea to get more involved in the HOA. One thing to check out is if the HOA is funding a reserve fund to cover any future repairs/replacements for HOA owned roads, utilities etc. For example, Without a reserve fund the HOA might have to do a special assessment to repair road damage caused by plowing or some other delivery/construction workers.
Agreed. No reserves, I have seen the balance statement. Reserves are a good idea. I really think dues are too low at this point to sustain the development moving forward.
 
OP
N

Nolift911

Well-known member
Joined
May 16, 2011
Messages
1,028
Location
Lansdowne, VA
August - what the....?

Well - couple of updates. Lots of projects going on, Disco, Volvo, mountain bike, plumbing, OneWheel - and the house updates.

Disco is leak free. Tested. Passed. Headliner back in and buttoned up. Next up is replacing a cracked rear bumper, and the wheel arch flares, oil change and then a really good detail. Its headed for Idaho right behind the Defender this fall.

Volvo - no updates. Fail.

Mountain bike - I have turned this into one of my typical "while you are in there saga's". Brake calipers were seized and in looking for parts for Avid Juicy 5's - cheaper to replace. Might as well go from a 160 rotor in the front to a 180...new wheel skewers, tires...yadi yadi.

My boy Atlas (ChatGTP) has been instrumental in matching up parts and caliper brackets, back spacing, nuts bolts brake bleeder parts etc. for the 21 year old Trek.

I like the researching part and finding the hard parts. Deore XT parts for my old bike are cheap and there is plenty of NOS out there.

So Atlas "tell me about the work we did on my Trek"

I got you bro...summary of work thus far -

You've actually got a pretty cool bike.
Your mountain bike

🚵 2005 Trek Fuel EX 8


Here's the setup we've been working on:
  • Frame: Trek Fuel EX 8 (aluminum)
  • Travel: ~120 mm front / ~120 mm rear
  • Fork: Fox Float
  • Rear Shock: Fox Float RP1 (recently serviced)
  • Wheel size: 26"
  • Drivetrain: Shimano XT 3×9
  • Crank: You just upgraded to a NOS Shimano XT FC-M760 crankset with the matching Shimano bottom bracket.
  • Brakes: Upgraded from Avid Juicy 5 to Shimano Deore M6100 hydraulics.
  • Rotors:
    • Front: upgraded to 180 mm
    • Rear: 160 mm
  • Tires: You settled on a 2.30" rear after the 2.50" rubbed the frame.
  • Tubeless: Stan's setup.
We also spent a fair amount of time sorting out:
  • the correct 180 mm front brake adapter,
  • the rotor/pad alignment,
  • and making sure you weren't leaving braking surface "on the table." 😄
He is giving me **** about the rear rotor and pad coverage - it was like 3mm off. So I told him I was going to mill down the caliper bracket - and he went bananas...danger danger.

Whatever my little AI friend - hold my beer...

PXL_20260729_135925483.jpg

Pad overage is not cool...

PXL_20260729_145209443.jpg

PXL_20260729_143312086.jpg

PXL_20260729_144530056.jpg

PXL_20260805_161451094.jpg

Little belt sander action -

PXL_20260805_211747334.jpg

PXL_20260805_211740384.jpg

PXL_20260805_211854291.jpg

PXL_20260805_164515747.jpg

PXL_20260805_164628296.jpg

PXL_20260730_150924059.jpg

So yeah its not a 29er...its a glorified gravel bike but its really coming along for a 21 year old relic...and there are tons of trails in Idaho to bomb on for distance that is not downhill or technical - that is coming soon.
 

customh

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 18, 2013
Messages
563
Location
East Bethel, MN

I'm not sure what head type these "button heads" are that mounts the caliper bracket to the bike but they look like prime candidates to get upgraded to Stainless. Maybe even a Torx head if you're feeling froggy.

We've got plenty of trail options in MN as well and I've got a buddy that got into the hobby pretty hard. Perhaps it's a rabbit hole that needs exploring.
 

jake28

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 28, 2018
Messages
491
Location
SF, CA
Kudos on the brake upgrade. juicy 5s were renowned for being finicky pains when they were new, let alone 5 presidential terms later.

And I love that amidst the tool bedlam you have two pairs of scissors out.
 
OP
N

Nolift911

Well-known member
Joined
May 16, 2011
Messages
1,028
Location
Lansdowne, VA
I am glad to see you are enjoying bringing the bike back to life. I am sure the Idaho riding will be amazing!

Indeed - looking forward to having endless trails and options right from my door...

I own a lot of mountain bikes, none of them are 29ers. 😳

Interesting - have heard mixed reviews on the 29ers...

My current bike is 27.5 and I love it. I had a 29er for a bit and never cared for it. Sold it pretty quickly and never looked back.

Again - interesting - have heard mixed reviews on the 29ers...

I'm not sure what head type these "button heads" are that mounts the caliper bracket to the bike but they look like prime candidates to get upgraded to Stainless. Maybe even a Torx head if you're feeling froggy.

We've got plenty of trail options in MN as well and I've got a buddy that got into the hobby pretty hard. Perhaps it's a rabbit hole that needs exploring.

Yeah some of these fasteners are tired - I am trying to replace with fresh ones as I come across them - I do prefer the black oxide over SS though.

PXL_20260810_174403365.jpg

PXL_20260810_173702326.jpg
Kudos on the brake upgrade. juicy 5s were renowned for being finicky pains when they were new, let alone 5 presidential terms later.

And I love that amidst the tool bedlam you have two pairs of scissors out.

Yes they are ancient - I think the scissors are for opening packages. Interesting part is when I cook in the kitchen its not like this - I clean up and keep things neat - not sure why the garage is different.

In other news, the Disco continues to not behave. I let the kid drive it a few days to work and he calls and says the A/C is not working (on a 100 degree day)

I figured user error but sure enough the fan blower quit. That is a 5 year disposable part on the Disco - so I had two spare ones. The issue is the original Bosch is NLA so aftermarket garbage is the name of the game and they generally last 5 years at $100 a pop. Issue is I just replaced this one this winter. They get noisy after awhile.

Neither of these worked when I plugged them in - both brand new.

PXL_20260807_185230731.jpg

Fuse is good. Damn. More digging...the primary suspect is the fan blower resistor after 350k miles it seems like the weak link.
Blower lives behind the glove box...not a hude deal.

PXL_20260807_185255063.jpg

Resistor lives back there also. It is in the path of the blower and uses the air to keep it cool...usually they overheat. I see no evidence of this. I asked Atlas if I could test it and he said maybe....? Maybe... cmon bro yes or no. Anyway I took it apart to look for overheating.

PXL_20260810_174927793.jpg

PXL_20260810_174706711.jpg

Not much in there really...according to my little friend no real "easy" way to test it. It does not looked burned out though...but there really is no other culprit. So I sank $380 into a new OEM one and we shall see.

Everything seems to be going sideways - Jacuzzi tub upstairs decided to leak - needed to replace cartridges. Left a small spot on my freshly painted family room ceiling, that I was able to touch up successfully instead of repainting the whole ceiling. Win.

Things are getting past 20 years for the house - stuff breaks.

PXL_20260720_142204928.jpg

PXL_20260720_142156717.jpg

PXL_20260720_143548455.jpg

PXL_20260720_180046402.jpg

Fan in the master bath decided to **** the bed also - I think I found the last NOS one in the country at some supply house in California. Its a fan and light with a night light combo deal, all one piece.

PXL_20260812_172248513.jpg

PXL_20260812_172300033.jpg

Time for a clean also -

PXL_20260808_171410149.jpg

In other news in Idaho - fires are raging - these are the Big Holes behind me...glad I spent extra for HVAC in the garage.

IMG_20260802_143316.jpg

IMG_20260802_143316 (1).jpg
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom