New to Forum - New 50x40 Shop Build

[ncpittfin13]

Hello - I'm new to this forum and in the process of building a garage/shop on my property. I live near Pittsburgh, PA and am an avid car collector as a hobby. I do nearly all of my own maintenance on my ~15 vehicle collection.

Because of restrictive covenants, my garage must look similar to my home, so will be built in brick matching it. Garage doors will be in a walnut color to match my home and have a row of windows. Overall footprint is ~50x40. Build will likely start later this year or at latest in spring when the weather breaks.

I plan on installing one 2 post and 1-2 4 post lifts in the back of the shop. It will have natural gas and be heated likely with infrared tube heaters, potentially supplemented with forced air. I'm also planning to install a ceiling fan or fans. Considering other interior options like floor coating, wall and ceiling options, lighting options, exhaust fans, etc.

I would appreciate any insight from this group on lessons learned, the options above, things I may not be considering, etc.

Thanks very much!

 

[NUTTSGT]

I believe I would stick with one heat source and that would be forced air. I wouldn't spend redundant $$ on two separate heating systems.

 

[stingry]

Take A look at in floor radiant heat. I have it in my shop here in western Nebraska It is a very comfortable and economical heat. That being said, it is only practical if you leave the heat on constantly.

 

[My Old Tools]

You can brick anything. Look at red iron for clear span. Lofts are easy too.

 

[carlaisle]

If you're going to heat it all the time, definitely look at in slab radiant. If you'll want (need) to switch from heating to cooling quickly or often skip the radiant. If you want air conditioning, forced air is really the only thing that makes sense.

 

[willymakeit]

I run large projects with radiant heat. Some things to consider
1. Plan all of your floor installs out to avoid penetrating tubing. [A flir camera can be used later]
2. Manifolds are either top supply or bottom supply. If bottom [under slab the supply ect has a minimum bend radius which gets problematic.
3. We normally use heavy wire 6x6 mesh and zip tie or machine wire tie tubing to the mesh. If zip tied clean all the cuttings up as they will float up in concrete.
4. Take lots of pictures with tape measure showing in same.
5. A pressure test with gauge during the pour and have installer onsite during pour in case something is damaged. Dont be suprised to see a pressure drop overnight before pour as tempature does affect it.