Hein Werner WS - Release Valve Help

[ReEngineer]

Hi all, I purchased a couple of Hein Werner WS jacks some time ago and rebuilt them. The rebuild went fine, no issues. The jacks dont leak and they go up and down just fine. Here's the issue. Unless I put a plier to the release valve knob, I cant get these things to hold loads up and they slowly creep down. The model WS has a pin style release valve with some sort of seat inside the body. Is the sea replaceable? Do I need to lap the pin and the seat somehow? Or is there something I am missing. I love these old jacks. Didn't even bother painting them as the platina is great. Hoping someone can help me keep these two jacks going.

Thanks!

 

[paulsomlo]

I rebuilt a WS several years ago; from what I remember, the seat is integral to the hydraulic block and not replaceable. Seats can be lapped - you can buy lapping tools that are essentially a diamond grit embedded ball on the end of a stick. I made one using a ball bearing epoxied to a stick and used in conjunction with lapping compound. The needle itself would probably have to be cleaned up in a lathe. The subject of lapping seats has come up here before, do a little digging you'll find more info.

 

[Hiball]

I very seldom see seat issues with the needle/pin type release valves, Obviously a careful inspection can eliminate any glaring issues. The WS also using an inner piece to keep it centered, thus reduce the chance of something getting damaged. It’s a little suspect that both jacks are having similar issues, maybe a picture of the release mechanism where it screws into the block. It’s a process to get those assemblies completely seated and still operating with the square portion inside the inner threaded piece.

 

[ReEngineer]

Thanks for the replies. I know what you mean about the square piece, definitely makes it complicated. As far as the release mechanism, I noticed the tighter I tighten the knob the less it creeps downward. Doing so takes a lot of care and attention and if I forget to tighten it exactly the same it creeps. Let me get some pictures uploaded. As for lapping, I was thinking of using clover lapping compound by simply inserting the needle with compound into the seat and applying downward pressure as I spin the needle. Let me look more on this site before I do so. Thanks again!

 

[ReEngineer]

Good morning all. @Hiball , Here are a couple of pictures of the release mechanism. It looks fine and I checked that the packing is in the valve box as it belongs. How does this look to you?

 

[Hiball]

How does this look to you?

I should have specified, I was hoping to see pictures of them installed, so I could determine if the assembly was fully seated in the block. Outside of that it looks a little wet in that recessed area where the assembly sits, which is suspect.

I would reinstall it, making sure that when you thread it back in the block, don’t just stop when the needle bottoms out in the seat. Once there and inner piece is secure it’s time to rotate the gear to raise the needle, at the same time thread the assembly into the block (rinse and repeat) until it’s fully seated. If you follow this procedure it will keep the hex portion of the release within the square drive on the inner portion and when secured it will allow the pin to raise and lower.

 

[ReEngineer]

Thanks @Hiball . So I did that and stuck a o-ring that seemed to be the same size. now it appears to be holding for a good amount of time. However I noticed that now it’s spewing oil. What could be causing this?

 

[ReEngineer]

Here’s another angle. Appears to be seeping upward past the o-ring.

 

[ReEngineer]

So I took off the o-ring and now I’m watching it. I’ll give it a few hours with a load.

 

[ReEngineer]

I believe that did it! When I was working on the release mechanism I’m wired brush cleaned the threads and that allowed for a better fit. thanks for the replies!