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What did you do "IN" your garage today?

Beerhippie

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Oct 13, 2023
Messages
10,386
Location
Far NE Oregon
Any shot you can get a clamping tab added to the legs? Cause some drunken clown with probably knock that sucker over...
Good point. I'm using another piece of the prep table top for a base so we don't scorch our bar top. It would be easy enough to pop-rivet a few pieces of angle to the corners of that.

I'll get to work on that tomorrow. Right now, it's beer thirty. Another day out in the sun and smoke. I'm heading up front so I can keep an eye on the young ladies. Someone has to do it.
 
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CoogarXR

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Jan 11, 2016
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Ohio
In the carport attached to the small garage-

Decided to take my old explorer to town, as it hasn't been driven in a month or two. Opened the hood to check the fluids, and a 12" round chew-circle in the under-hood insulation caught my eye. Damn squirrels! My aux lights aren't working either. That's all damage I see so far. It still started up and drove fine, so I'm thankful for that, but still. Damnit, lol.
 

kaymccampbell

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Feb 27, 2015
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29,803
Location
Upstate New York
Reckon that'll work. If I had a four-foot long sheet of Plexiglass, I'd make a "sneeze shield" for it, but I don't--and probably can't get one shipped in time. If the Powers That Be insist, I'll see what I can do.
Have you got a Blowes or Orange Hell in your region? Both of ours stock a nice collection of 1/4 and 1/8 plexiglass.
 

Beerhippie

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Oct 13, 2023
Messages
10,386
Location
Far NE Oregon
Have you got a Blowes or Orange Hell in your region? Both of ours stock a nice collection of 1/4 and 1/8 plexiglass.
Huh? This is a remote county of 7,000 people--maybe counting some livestock--and a town of around 2K. We have a single chain restaurant--Subway--and a grocery store or two (in the county, not the town). We may be the only county in Oregon without a single stop light--ODOT doesn't seem to keep score on that. Nearest big box is an hour-and-a-half away (driving too fast), each way. If the PTB decide we need the sneeze shield, I guess I could hop on over--on the clock and they cover fuel--currently right about $5/gal.

I built this thing for one event. It might get used again in the future, but I'm not holding my breath.
 

kaymccampbell

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Feb 27, 2015
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Location
Upstate New York
Huh? This is a remote county of 7,000 people--maybe counting some livestock--and a town of around 2K. We have a single chain restaurant--Subway--and a grocery store or two (in the county, not the town). We may be the only county in Oregon without a single stop light--ODOT doesn't seem to keep score on that. Nearest big box is an hour-and-a-half away (driving too fast), each way. If the PTB decide we need the sneeze shield, I guess I could hop on over--on the clock and they cover fuel--currently right about $5/gal.

I built this thing for one event. It might get used again in the future, but I'm not holding my breath.
Looks like you've got an Ace and a True Value. From my experience in the ones in the surrounding villages out here, they all stock a decent supply of plexi. Getting glass is hard, that takes a few days, plastic they have lots of. The truck comes once it twice a week from the regional warehouse, a couple hours away. And if I'm willing to pay a bit, I can get it faster, as it gets tossed in a truck that can detour for a fee.
 

Beerhippie

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Oct 13, 2023
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Location
Far NE Oregon
Looks like you've got an Ace and a True Value. From my experience in the ones in the surrounding villages out here, they all stock a decent supply of plexi. Getting glass is hard, that takes a few days, plastic they have lots of. The truck comes once it twice a week from the regional warehouse, a couple hours away. And if I'm willing to pay a bit, I can get it faster, as it gets tossed in a truck that can detour for a fee.
Sadly, nope. Screws, nuts and bolts, yes--in common sizes and shapes. Want a stainless, metric bolt? Tough--pick one. Paint, maybe. I think I bought the last can on Plasti-Dip from the True Value (ever wonder why the ue in the two words is pronounced differently? I have.)--if that's still is what it is. May have also bought the last stick of 1" Al angle. Wallowa County Grain Growers tends to change what chain hardware store they are about annually.

Hardware stores around here don't stock **** anymore. Used to be, you'd go to the the co-op or mercantile and get the week's groceries, beer, feed for the livestock, some lumber, a handful of 16p nails, four #4-40 screws, a new light socket and a 15A breaker.
 
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LeonardY

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Apr 16, 2011
Messages
5,202
Location
Southern California
Not to rub it in:

The Household Hazardous Waste Facility is open for household drop-offs Wednesday through Friday from 8:30 AM to 2:30 PM, and Saturday from 8:30 AM to 4:00/4:30 PM. No appointment is needed for residents.
In the Bay area Recology does the same.

What I really like is they will take your old batteries. You just put them in a ziplock bag on top of your recycling can. They make it easy to get rid of hazardous waste. Which makes snese. If they don't want people to toss it in the garbage, then make convenient to dispose of properly.

Couple times a year they do a round up here. But you have to remember and it changes year to year.
 

Outlawmws

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Aug 9, 2011
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39,503
Location
The Badlands
It's not a lot better in the bigger cities Timm and Kay. I buy a lot on line because its not stocked locally anymore. the last decent Ace - privately owned - was bought out by a SoCal chain and things are changing there fast. I had to order a 3/8 pipe tap drill from Jeff's jungle to get one recently.

Citric acid from Eprey, Tires shipped to my door Fed Ex.
 

OccupantRJ

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Joined
May 15, 2009
Messages
11,473
Location
Eastern North Carolina
Do you have a deal with them to save any and all camp fuel?

I just got notice that we're hosting a wedding with 80-odd guests on the 30th this month. I'm informed that I need to make a stand/safety cover for a heat strip (for keeping hot food hot) for a "buffet-style" service. Looking through the boneyard, I found the "lid" for a prep table, like this:

970-vp48s.jpg

Yeah, I can run with that.

Gotta add some legs to get the heat strip 16" from the table top. Off to the hardware store for some 1" aluminum angle.

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How did I make the angle cut--whatever angle it is?

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The way a good ol' framing carpenter would. Sure I could have mathed it out with my trig skills--which I haven't exercised in about thirty years, or I could have used my CAD skills and program--if I had either. This works and is fast and accurate enough for my needs.

Customer side:

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Server side:

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So we don't scratch up the surface of our nice, custom-made bar top

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Plasti-Dip to the rescue. I just applied the second and last coat.

Reckon that'll work. If I had a four-foot long sheet of Plexiglass, I'd make a "sneeze shield" for it, but I don't--and probably can't get one shipped in time. If the Powers That Be insist, I'll see what I can do.
I bought a cut to size piece of plexiglass from a local glass shop for the lighting window on one of the blast cabinets in 1/4x14x45” for $35 and ordered it with a call in and picked it up in a couple hours once they called back. Lowes here also has plexi but it is more expensive.
 

bmwrd0

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Joined
Nov 7, 2010
Messages
5,572
Location
Beaver Fever Oregon
Vacaville, in the greater Bay Area, had one of the best Ace Hardware's I have ever seen. I truly miss that store, they kept all you needed in stock, nuts and bolt to coffee makers to sheet wood/plexi to one of the best color match people in paint.

Nothing like that here, sadly.

Anyhoo, I have had a couple antique floor lamps kicking around my little shop for years now, and I got around to finishing them off the other night. I have had all of the necessary parts, re-pop vintage cordage and plugs but never found the time as I was always working on something else.
55475153167_70482bac61_b.jpg
But, I do not have enough light bulbs on hand to put the finishing touches on these, sadly.
 

welder4956

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Apr 8, 2010
Messages
3,105
Location
Birmingham, AL USA
Nice new brake. Not a metal worker but one summer while in college I worked at a large oil refinery and spent part of the summer working in their big shop complex. It included a large area for the pipe fitters and boiler makers, another shop area for the welders, and connected to that large building was the metal shop.

I spent a bit of time with each group and there were only two guys left working the metal shop because the plant was going to close it when they retired. So there was not much for them to do. They taught me and two other summer workers how to use a lot of the equipment, including some really large brakes, and we made a lot of things for fun in that short time. We made knives, flip top writing pad holders (those went to supervisors and people in the white collar building for their 8.5 x 11 writing pads), and we each made stainless beer mugs. I still have mine and it holds about 25 ounces. That short stint was fun but most of the summer before that all the summer help was doing grunt work.
I used to teach a 1 week class once or twice a year to engineers that covered oxy-acetylene and plasma cutting, stick, mig, flux core and tig welding. We would spend about half of each day in the shop with them using each process and the rest of the time learning about safety and procedures. Just about all of them said it was the most enjoyable class they had.
 

CoogarXR

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Joined
Jan 11, 2016
Messages
6,895
Location
Ohio
Decided to see why my aux lights stopped working on my truck. All the wiring looked good, fuse is good, power to the relay, relay clicks, output of relay good, still no lights? Wiring to each light looks good... Hmm... Pulled on the ground to check, wire just comes out of crimp. I go to strip it back, the jacket only contains dust. Strip it more, dust some more. I had to cut about 4" of wire before I got any actual conductor to show, and even then, the lights still don't work, so the other end(s) no doubt are rotted too.

Long story short, this damn wire that I bought at an estate sale must be CCA. Stupid **** should be outlawed. The "copper" inside has broken down into flaky dust. Which is great, because It's the same wire I used to install the aux lights on my van too (which explains why the ground crimp has broken off 3 times there too).

So I get to re-wire both vehicles' lights now. Grr.

I mean, yeah, that's what I get for using estate-sale wire. It was brand new, and it was from an engineer's home lab! I figured it would be the good stuff. But no, he must have bought whatever was cheapest.

"Back in my day" wire was all copper and you didn't have to worry about this ****. Now, the world is contaminated with trash.
 

CoogarXR

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Jan 11, 2016
Messages
6,895
Location
Ohio
You haven't seen Aluminum wire in houses "Back in the day? How old are you?
Well, at least that wire wasn't hidden with chinese copper spray paint, lol. You could tell it was aluminum by looking at it. I guess I should have said, "back in my day, copper-colored wire was solid copper!"
 
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Beerhippie

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Oct 13, 2023
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Far NE Oregon
The one I had sitting around was compact F, but I will see what is cheapest at HD or lowes and go with that.
Yeah, gotta save some pennies so you can afford the period-correct shades!

"Back in my day" wire was all copper and you didn't have to worry about this ****.
I had to return three rolls of Cat6 cable to get one made out of real copper wire.
 

Jeff Ivers

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Apr 9, 2010
Messages
2,591
Location
Oklahoma
shop office floor 25 r.jpg
Of course, I forgot to take in process pictures. When my second 25+ year old belt sander quit yesterday I decided to try a repair. Motor was running but belt was not turning. Took the drive belt cover off to discover the belt was thrown but not broken. Figured it threw the belt due to resistance on the drive and idler wheels. Took off the front idler roller (on the right) and cleaned the metal parts, added grease, and reassembled. The drive roller consists of an aluminum core to which is supposed to be attached a plastic outer cover. Mine had separated - so I mixed up some plastic JB Weld and reassembled. I removed the entire bottom drive assembly so I could get to the "gear box" from which I scraped out the old hardened grease, cleaned, re-lubed and reassembled. This morning I reassembled the drive roller and - success! I used the sander for over an hour with no problems.
 

Beerhippie

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Oct 13, 2023
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10,386
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Far NE Oregon
Finished:

55477122691_c24c3224b8_b.jpg

except for the final cleaning--I'll let the kitchen staff deal with that.

I dismissed Outlaw's suggestion above, until I recalled Uncle Mikey, who always got ****-faced at family gatherings.

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I used the rest of the top clamshell door of the prep table as the heat guard for our wood bar. It has 1/2" of free air under it. Should do the job.

Here's what it looked like before I got to it:

55477156595_3cf7e58aa3_b.jpg

except that one is brand new.

Led a merry dance around the shop yard trying to stay in the shade. It's 100F outside, and that thing is all shiny stainless steel. There's a nice breeze blowing out front, but hardly any air moving back here, tucked in between the warehouse, shop, and brewhouse.

Reckon that breeze presages a thunderstorm tonight.
 
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Outlawmws

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Aug 9, 2011
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39,503
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The Badlands
Yard work and moved some maple logs from the back/side to the front and cutting and stacking for a Free pile.

This guy apparently hitched a ride on my jeans from somewhere and was found on the kitchen floor(to the utter dismay of my youngest - she abhors any bugs...)

I got him in a jar and moved him to the oregano in the front. A male praying mantis Hmm not sure why the pic rotated...:

Praying-mantis.jpg
 

DGersic

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Mar 12, 2017
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6,454
Location
DeKalb, IL
After much more screwing around with it than I expected, it’s in.

IMG_0242.jpeg

Lessons learned:

1. Just because the plastic clutch alignment tool fits, doesn’t mean it’s aligned. Had to loosen the clutch bolts up, move the clutch disk up slightly, and torque down again.

2. The directions say to drive the pilot bearing “flush” with the crank. Turns out that “flush” here means “drive it in to the pocket until it bottoms out. It needs to be all of the way in to allow the input shaft to fit.

Fixing this took removing the bellhousing again, removing the clutch again, and hammering the bearing in to the crank until it could go no further. Reinstalled the clutch, and bellhousing, again. After that, a bit of wiggling and lifting and the trans slid right in.

Torqued the bolts holding the trans to the bellhousing.

Started working on the crossmember to mount the rear of the trans.
 

Beerhippie

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Oct 13, 2023
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Location
Far NE Oregon
This guy apparently hitched a ride on my jeans from somewhere and was found on the kitchen floor(to the utter dismay of my youngest - she abhors any bugs...)
C'mon, man--mantises are among the coolest bugs out there--get the little gal interested in them!

Those scary-*** pincers can't actually hurt you. They just grab.
 

Beerhippie

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Oct 13, 2023
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10,386
Location
Far NE Oregon
Currently beat to hell and gone. Got everything I needed to get done today, hung out at the bar with some young friends, planned some trips, etc. Then I got back to the shop find a Rinnai nightmare. Water just pouring out of them, no heating--and tomorrow is a big brew day in our recovery from the bust-*** canning line. Got the Rinnais fixed well enough to run for tomorrow. 10 PM and it's done for me today.

These f'in' Rinnais are superannuated--and the wrong tool for the job to begin with--but I can't find anything to replace them--and I've been trying. Starting to be a bit of a PITA. You know you have a problem when you describe the use case you need a water heater for, and the techs just ghost you afterwards.
 

bugnut

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Joined
Jul 14, 2012
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4,097
Location
Central Ohio
After finding rust on the roller for the chop saw support I took the wee ryobi handheld belt sander to the rust, after a couple minutes, the rust was fairly well removed. A pass with fine paper and then steel wool. Set it up on the workmate, surfaces covered and found a can of matte clear, sprayed 2 coats. And we're back in action. Simple quick satisfying!
 

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zimman

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Mar 2, 2014
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Location
Mark Twain National Forest
Roof rack loads into the camper/bed shell vs directly into the bed?
Larry the shell is 1x2 aluminum skeleton (8) and a host of 1x1 supports, all at least 16ga. The roof rack is really a platform for me to "shoot" racing events, automobiles and other **** like a Peeping Tom. LMAO. Also I'm tired of carrying 2x4's cross stacked inside the cap. PITA. And, I'm in need of a sheet or two of 16/18/20ga sheet metal, all under a hundred pounds. I've carried more weight on top of a 1975 Plymouth Grand Fury Police Special 440 moving from one shack to another shack in Ohio. LMAO
Zim
 

Beerhippie

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Oct 13, 2023
Messages
10,386
Location
Far NE Oregon
Last night stopped work before all my tools and parts disappeared. Was trying to sort why the fuel pump isn't working on my 91 Z28...I've replaced the fuel pump previously. Not fun as not only does the tank need to come out so does the panhard bar and muffler.
This is how you can tell the engineers never thought of, or cared about, future repairs and the poor SOB who has to do them. I was overjoyed when I needed to replace the in-tank pump on my Toyota Corolla and found the access panel under the rear seat. Didn't even need to empty the tank and the entire fix was, literally, a fifteen-minute job. Toyota cared back then.

Of course, a week later I put a hole in the tank so had to pull it anyway. Turns out, a Toyota Corolla is not ideal for off-roading.
 

Beerhippie

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Oct 13, 2023
Messages
10,386
Location
Far NE Oregon
Back to working on the food warmer project. When I wrote that I was done, it wasn't entirely true, as I still had one small problem:

55479066070_d5b7221794_b.jpg

Something about that heat element doesn't look right.

Fortunately, FedUp hid this on the property yesterday:

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Much better.

I reinstalled the strip heater in the stand/guard I built and gave it a good forty-five-minute test. The idea of the hood is to keep customers from getting burned and it was warm, but not hot, to the touch. You wouldn't want to hold your hand on the front of the hood for too long, but it won't burn you from a casual brush against it. I think I'll drill a few holes in the inner liner to facilitate air flow between the two layers.
 
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