Does anyone know what kind of plastic water pipe connector this is and how to repair it?

[lund]

Below is a pic of a blue plastic connector used in my refrigerator/freezer door to provide dispenser water. It connects a small (edit measured better: 5/16" OD) clear plastic tube to the freezer door. It is a splice connector: the plastic tube upstream and downstream is the same type. Probably it is there to allow door removal and replacement. The fitting is leaking occasionally when door open/close cycles flexes the pipe slightly. What kind of fitting is this and can it be reset/repaired (how if so?) or should it be replaced. This is a good quality GE fridge/freezer with side by side doors that is probably about 15 to 20 years old.

This was hard to diagnose. I thought at first it was condensate or freezer frost melt draining the wrong place. The leak also seems to have a mind of its own leaking every few days when the stresses are right and then stops if slightly moved. That made it look like a cycle issue and real "fun" to find.

Edit: Gather from what was sent below (thanks) these are simple press in connectors and perhaps I should trim the pipe (if slack to reset) or use a new splice connector that might bite better. I did some searching and this may be a GE union connector of type WR02X11330 for 5/16" plastic lines.

 

[kyrbz]

https://pexhouse.com/product/3-8-od-plastic-quick-connect-coupling/

 

[whateg01]

https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-3-8-in-Push-to-Connect-x-3-8-in-Push-to-Connect-dia-Coupling-Push-Fitting/1000192641

 

[lund]

Thanks. See edit above on the posting. I think this is a GE press in fitting (simple duh on my part!) for 5/16" OD plastic tube. Likely GE part number WR02X11330 (or compatible with).

I will likely buy a new connector, trim the pipe a little to get pristine tube to seat at the seal if there is enough slack, and then anchor it better so it will keep more stationary when the door is opened and closed.

Seems this is a common failure point. I guess that is not surprising. But I had bad luck (what me again?) with the leak being very transient and flaky.

 

[Death Row Dave]

I normally replace those with air line fittings from trucks .

 

[Wrench97]

I normally replace those with air line fittings from trucks .

Push to connect fittings or the older brass ferrule type?

 

[lund]

I normally replace those with air line fittings from trucks .

Thanks. I am tempted to try what you are staying. It might give a more robust seal.

I think the main issue was the connector was getting slightly jostled every time the freezer door opened and it has just light (hand push in) force on the seal. So over time it probably distorts the seal from the many cycles and it starts leaking. The plastics (pipe and connector) also may also age to some degree. This seems like a bad design: they should anchor the pipe better on at least the door side of the connector. But I guess they want everything simple, cheap, and fast at the factory to just snap together parts.

I wonder how many houses/kitchens have been flooded from these connectors! Thin plastic pipes also may not do well as they age but I have not heard of these kind of lines blowing out so maybe the materials are ok?

 

[matt_i]

It could be as easy as a brass compression connector, however with plastic tubing, best practice is to install an internal tube support on both sides of the joint. Basically a thin metal flange designed for this application, which is pushed inside the tube ID prior to tightening the compression nut. It keeps the compression ferrule in solid contact with the tube wall rather than just bowing it out of the way (and creating a poor seal without much actual compression). A metal tube with stronger wall doesn't require it.

Search "tube support" at McMaster Carr for more info.

 

[andyvh1959]

Looks similar to Parker water push to connect fittings designed for drinking water systems. Avaiable though any Parker Store location and online. Sized for both inch and metric tubing. Very common stuff.

 

[CGT80]

Tube, not pipe.

This kind of tube and fittings are used for pneumatics as well. I have them all over my cnc milling machine and an automated bullet casting machine and automated bullet sizing machine that I built all of.

It does appear that the blue and white fittings are drinking water safe, from what I have seen. Other colors are used for industrial purposes.

Sometimes it is better to let a tube flex as mounting it rigid could cause problems. It has to move with the device that hinges. The same happens with pneumatic cylinders that move as they are used.

 

[cleaner]

Brass would not be a great choice for this if it is providing potable water. I would choose an NSF approved (food/potable water safe) material for this if it is a water line for water used to drink or cook with.

 

[lund]

Brass would not be a great choice for this if it is providing potable water. I would choose an NSF approved (food/potable water safe) material for this if it is a water line for water used to drink or cook with.

Good point. Thanks. Even if things quickly get micro-coated, it is not the best idea to have brass etc exposed to drinking water.

I have the original on order in any event so it should be fine.

 

[lund]

Tube, not pipe.

This kind of tube and fittings are used for pneumatics as well. I have them all over my cnc milling machine and an automated bullet casting machine and automated bullet sizing machine that I built all of.

It does appear that the blue and white fittings are drinking water safe, from what I have seen. Other colors are used for industrial purposes.

Sometimes it is better to let a tube flex as mounting it rigid could cause problems. It has to move with the device that hinges. The same happens with pneumatic cylinders that move as they are used.

Thanks.

Yes, I think the blue and white GE part number ones are specific for drinking water lines.

On the tube flex: In this case, there is an anchor downstream of the joint, but it appears the tube pops out of the anchor easily and you can see some line flexing motion close to the joint on every door open. I doubt that stress is good for the connector seal surfaces (not sure if stainless/metal teeth or plastic sealing into plastic). So I think in this case, it may need better anchoring closer to the original design intent. But to your point, the line has to bend an arch on every door open. So the plastic will have some stress if the door is opened and closed a lot over the years. Distributing that over a shorter arc could generate an alternative problem here. But I think I need to do something here since I am replacing the connector with something close to what failed.

 

[dcg9381]

Thanks.
Yes, I think the blue and white GE part number ones are specific for drinking water lines. But I think I need to do something here since I am replacing the connector with something close to what failed.

You don't need GE part numbers on these. These fittings are super generic, I use them all the time in water systems. Amazon is fine. They usually have a lock fitting, that isn't shown. Just get the right 5/16 size.

So the plastic will have some stress if the door is opened and closed a lot over the years. Distributing that over a shorter arc could generate an alternative problem here.

You can adapt these to a threaded fitting and braided line if you want flex, but I can tell you after 20+ years the original plastic tube is going to be 'suspect.

 

[carlaisle]

Can you relocate the connector to a place where it is not subject to routine motion or, if not, at least to a location where it is subject to less motion?

Nothing wrong with brass in potable water systems as long as it's designed for potable water. Even if it's not, may still be better for you than the ongoing stream of microplastics.

 

[pima67]

Not to be redundant but: On our Kenmore the water supply line started leaking at the little clamp holding it to the back. I couldn't fine a 1/4 plastic coupling at Ace so I purchased a brass one. Had to really crank it down on the tubing to end any leakage. That tubing is really thick walled for a good reason I would guess. Maybe a plastic push in would have been better/easier.

 

[Wrench97]

Thanks. I am tempted to try what you are staying. It might give a more robust seal.

I think the main issue was the connector was getting slightly jostled every time the freezer door opened and it has just light (hand push in) force on the seal. So over time it probably distorts the seal from the many cycles and it starts leaking. The plastics (pipe and connector) also may also age to some degree. This seems like a bad design: they should anchor the pipe better on at least the door side of the connector. But I guess they want everything simple, cheap, and fast at the factory to just snap together parts.

I wonder how many houses/kitchens have been flooded from these connectors! Thin plastic pipes also may not do well as they age but I have not heard of these kind of lines blowing out so maybe the materials are ok?

I've replaced a lot of air line push connect fittings on trucks for leaking so no......
The o ring inside is replicable but I also always found nylon hose to be worn at the o ring side of the road DOT inspection fix one could always cut 1/4" off and shove it back in if one didn't have the fitting on the service truck.

 

[wssix99]

Thanks. I am tempted to try what you are staying. It might give a more robust seal.

Yes. Any tubing splice connector will do. These quick connectors are used to ease assembly at the factory. (Not the most robust solution by any means.)

 

[lund]

Yes. Any tubing splice connector will do. These quick connectors are used to ease assembly at the factory. (Not the most robust solution by any means.)

I guess consumers like everything as cheap as possible so all must be quick and super cheap on the assembly line so everyone makes big profits. It is a shame that better components and materials are not used in key areas and/or that more time to install robust solutions cannot be taken. I get the feeling that a lot of stuff gets trashed over minor failures. Finding stuff like this joint failure can also be surprisingly hard with pro repair people also very expensive. So it is easy to see why so much ends up trashed early.

 

[wssix99]

Indeed. With a utility giving a $50-100 rebate to recycle old refrigerators and the cost of a repair visit, (from a "pro") its often just as easy to treat these things like a used up iPhone.

I'm glad I can fix this stuff with a $3 part and less time than it takes to let a repair person in the house and/or go shopping for a new refrigerator.

 

[dcg9381]

I guess consumers like everything as cheap as possible so all must be quick and super cheap on the assembly line so everyone makes big profits. It is a shame that better components and materials are not used in key areas and/or that more time to install robust solutions cannot be taken. I get the feeling that a lot of stuff gets trashed over minor failures. Finding stuff like this joint failure can also be surprisingly hard with pro repair people also very expensive. So it is easy to see why so much ends up trashed early.

OP said this was 15-20 years old, I'll take it...
The plastic tube parts are pretty standard and main stream these days and used on other water systems. Should they be done with copper or stainless and crimped ~PEX? Maybe. Fixing this stuff is a pain when it on the inside of a panel... And one of these failures can do some major water damage if not caught - lifetime seems to be 15-20 years.
I actually got the garage fridge given to me for this exact same reason. Ice maker was "leaking" out back. Tubing was brittle and had cracked and co-worker just wanted it gone. I've been too lazy to fix it because I have to get the rear panel off the fridge... I just disconnected water and we "run it" in the garage.

 

[lund]

OP said this was 15-20 years old, I'll take it...
The plastic tube parts are pretty standard and main stream these days and used on other water systems. Should they be done with copper or stainless and crimped ~PEX? Maybe. Fixing this stuff is a pain when it on the inside of a panel... And one of these failures can do some major water damage if not caught - lifetime seems to be 15-20 years.
I actually got the garage fridge given to me for this exact same reason. Ice maker was "leaking" out back. Tubing was brittle and had cracked and co-worker just wanted it gone. I've been too lazy to fix it because I have to get the rear panel off the fridge... I just disconnected water and we "run it" in the garage.

It seems these days there are no repairs of compressors or condensers since the option is typically to fully replace the sealed system and that is very expensive -- likely more than a refrigerator is worth. So perhaps the lifetime of the compressor and/or condenser sets the effective lifetime of most refrigerator/freezer systems. 20 ish years seems to be a consensus for upper range lifetimes. So I guess the one I have is now (~20 years) with the water tube leak is now living on "borrowed time." That being said, it seems the compressor and condenser are ok and I would like to keep it going longer. It would be nice if they made them more readily maintainable and/or had less failure points. But I guess pipes for 50+ years is not going to happen.