How can I remove this rust from my jointer top?

[BlackdogGS]

I have a spot of rust on my jointer surface. I plane on sanding it off but I’m not sure what grit to start and end with. Any ideas?

 

[Shiftless]

Personally, I would try steel wool first.
Don’t start with coarse sandpaper. If you don’t have steel wool laying around go with fine grit like 400 and it that doesn’t take it off try 220. Are you going for a near mirror finish on the whole thing?
I use paste wax on my cast iron top table saw. That seems to retard rusting pretty well for me. There are some woodworking projects where you DON’T want any trace of wax on your work.

edit: Another idea is to use a scotchbrite pad. I like the white ones but the green ones are more aggressive. It all depends on how particular you are about how your jointer table looks.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

3M makes a red paint/varnish removing disk that is about 4 to 4.5 inches in diameter and is made from a coarser scotchbrite material. I use these in an angle die grinder to remove rust.

 

[manwithtools]

3M makes a red paint/varnish removing disk that is about 4 to 4.5 inches in diameter and is made from a coarser scotchbrite material. I use these in an angle die grinder to remove rust.

NO, don't do this on a jointer surface! It's way too aggressive.

OP, one of the best methods for your circumstance is an orbital sander with progressively finer grits from 320 - 600 wet/dry disks. Also, if the sander has an hook and loop attachment for the pad, you can use a piece of red Scotch Brite. Either method will work better with a little WD40 applied.

 

[PWC Repair]

Yep, penetrating lube and steel wool. That's what I use on my mill table.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

NO, don't do this on a jointer surface! It's way too aggressive.

OP, one of the best methods for your circumstance is an orbital sander with progressively finer grits from 320 - 600 wet/dry disks. Also, if the sander has an hook and loop attachment for the pad, you can use a piece of red Scotch Brite. Either method will work better with a little WD40 applied.

? Where are you coming from? You say do not use red scotchbrite and then turn around and recommend red scotchbrite? Did you perhaps ignore the fact that I said "red" and assume I was referring to the way too aggressive black paint/varnish removers? I have used the red on all types of tools including tablesaw and drill press table with great success.

 

[manwithtools]

? Where are you coming from? You say do not use red scotchbrite and then turn around and recommend red scotchbrite? Did you perhaps ignore the fact that I said "red" and assume I was referring to the way too aggressive black paint/varnish removers? I have used the red on all types of tools including tablesaw and drill press table with great success.

Big difference in a rotary disk for use in a drill and the the random orbit and slower speed of a sander. The stripping disk can potentially create a non-flat surface. Too easy for an inexperienced user to create problems. The random orbit sander works well and prevents issues that could otherwise occur.

 

[Jgaz]

I would start with steel wool as suggested above.
if you want/need something more aggressive check out
Klingspor Rust Erasers

 

[whateg01]

What about building a dam and soaking it with evaporust?

 

[floyd]

How about soaking a washcloth in evap-o-rust, laying it over the rusted area, and then covering it with plastic (to keep it wet longer)? A couple 24-hour treatments will probably be pretty effective.

 

[gamescastspencer]

Fresh Razor blade to scrape most of the rust off, then maroon scotch brite. Clean with solvent of some kind, then apply and buff a thin coat of paste wax or a specialized product like Glide cote or Dyna glide.

 

[Sumboodie]

How about soaking a washcloth in evap-o-rust, laying it over the rusted area, and then covering it with plastic (to keep it wet longer)? A couple 24-hour treatments will probably be pretty effective.

There's a gel version, it work ok?

 

[jar944]

Razor, followed by 220g on a r/o

 

[tool_scrounge]

Fresh Razor blade to scrape most of the rust off, then maroon scotch brite. Clean with solvent of some kind, then apply and buff a thin coat of paste wax or a specialized product like Glide cote or Dyna glide.

I use a NEW razor blade with very thin oil to start. Used razor blades can have small nicks and scratch the surface.

 

[floyd]

I have no experience with the gel version of evaporust but a quick search pointed out a different chemical composition between the two. The gel sounds like it is more caustic, with a phosphoric acid component.

 

[Aaron_W]

Really fine steel wool 0000 or 000 and WD40 works well.

 

[BigMike782]

Fresh Razor blade to scrape most of the rust off, then maroon scotch brite. Clean with solvent of some kind, then apply and buff a thin coat of paste wax or a specialized product like Glide cote or Dyna glide.

An old printers trick is to burnish/ease the front corners on a VERY fine sharpening stone to keep the sharp points from digging in.
I NEVER use any type of abrasive on a machined cast iron surface.
Afterwards I wax it and have had good luck over the last 35 years.

 

[four.cycle]

I stupidly allowed something to drip water all over the top of my old Craftsman table saw, which rusted the top something awful.
I worked it off with #0000 steel wool and Marvel Mystery Oil.
Rubber gloves.
Lot of calories burned.
Looks pretty good now.
YMMV

sandpaper? no- never. it'll never be flat again.

 

[jar944]

sandpaper? no- never. it'll never be flat again.

You would be lucky to take .0001" off with sandpaper, if the beds are within .005" from the factory, you would be lucky.

 

[four.cycle]

^ Okay, but after screwing up a couple things doing that - with the 400 wet-n-dry taped down to a piece of glass - I'm not taking any chances.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Personally, I would try steel wool first

Nothing coarser than 1/0 !

edit: Another idea is to use a scotchbrite pad. I like the white ones but the green ones are more aggressive. It all depends on how particular you are about how your jointer table looks.

Roloc Scotch Brite Disc. Blue is Fine. Gray is Very Fine.

 

[ramcharger]

I use red scotchbrite trimmed to fit an old orbital sander. Spray some wd40 and sand away. Takes a bit of time, but it scratches that sanding bug when I don't have anything to sand.

 

[RTM]

An old printers trick is to burnish/ease the front corners on a VERY fine sharpening stone to keep the sharp points from digging in.
I NEVER use any type of abrasive on a machined cast iron surface.
Afterwards I wax it and have had good luck over the last 35 years.

Just to keep the razor blade theory going, I try to use it as a scraper first, very vertical. Easing the edges will help prevent scratches.

I’m not a fan of power tools for this job, but the slower the better if you must. Angle grinder, die grinder, belt sander are the very worst in my opinion, high number grits on a slow large surface area would be least likely to do damage.

I prefer scotchbrite over steel wool, cuz it always leaves little bits you can’t see, and as close as I live to the great Pacific rust generator, this is a problem I’m tired of dealing with.

Looking hard at the picture, I’d try a razor blade scraper first, then evaporust on a rag or paper towel, then maybe razor blade again, then start in with a coarse (green) scotchbrite if it’s still gross, but get up to grey or maroon quickly (forget the order now)

 

[MoonRise]

FYI, 3M Scotch-Brite pads are:

Maroon/red 7447 is ~320-400 grit.

Green kitchen is ~600 grit.

Light gray 7448 is ~600-800 grit.

White 7445 is ~1200-1500 grit.

 

[RTM]

FYI, 3M Scotch-Brite pads are:

Maroon/red 7447 is ~320-400 grit.

Green kitchen is ~600 grit.

Light gray 7448 is ~600-800 grit.

White 7445 is ~1200-1500 grit.

Wow, that’s very different from what I find. This is closer to my understanding.

Green 100
Maroon 250
Gray 220
White 600

From

https://www.woodmagazine.com/materials-guide/sanding/color-holds-the-key-to-abrasive-pads

This 3M page does not give color names

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/metalworking-us/products/flat-stock/hand-pads/

This one does not even go to green

 

[PugetDude]

Surprised no one suggested removing the rust with a Laser....