Looking for tool organizational system suggestions (AKA Mil. packout-type kits) for a beginning Handyman who will eventually branch out on his own.

[Dig Doug]

I’m a Commercial Contractor I service a wide range of clients
so I keep a little bit of everything in my truck tool wise

hardware I keep in Husky tupperware - small parts / screw boxes

I use a rubber made 3 shelf 4 wheel cart to haul in tools and gear - This is harder w/ a residual type work as houses aren’t cart friendly

pack out style storage pro/ cons
I tried to like the pack out gear - Great Ideas for storage
although
the problem is when traveling do you just leave it in the bed of the truck run a chain thru $1,000’s in tools
or running into Depot - Prime Target for Theft or placing inside the cab = more moving them around

what about rain or bad weather …
then
lifting everything in and out of the truck bed all day - ***** !

my advice

buy a commercial truck or Van and set it up use only as a WORK truck/van don’t drive it every day unless working = Money Maker
alarm it
battery kill & vibration / tampering
tint windows
get Good locks ETC for security

set em up for what ever type of work you plan to do !
I bought a hunk of new commercial grade carpet and lined the bottom of all my truck boxes



my truck is a 2005 Chevy 2500 HD extra cab w/ 8ft contractor body 268,000 miles 3 transmissions & 1 motor later it’s still making money - looks Clean and drives Great

small parts screw boxes



Example of truck or van look professional and once set up they are work horses
The truck is similar to mine

 

[Dig Doug]

Electrical & plumbing fittings I have SMALL old school plastic Pack out style boxes, I’ve had these for over 15 years !

plumbing fittings
labeled 1/2, 3/4 & 1 inch + misc = straps

electrical MC cable and EMT conduit fittings
‘all have their own boxes and sizes

I don’t carry these every day

some of the biotech companies require specialize hardware
I have to use a lot of SS hardware so I have a box or 2 for those and I buy extras for inventory

you will find out real Quick what works for you -

The key is to stay organized and clean up & Out the truck van a few times a Month !
Dont Build up return items - return items weekly !

 

[johnh91]

Hi All:

I'm a former elementary school principal who retired in January. All my life I've been handy and done all sorts of projects from automotive to home. Recently, I started working for a local Handyman outfit and plan to branch out on my own shortly.

I have gone down rabbit holes like this in the past and my advise is to start off with a list of what discrete things you will do, you might do, and you definitely won't do.

There's a "scope of practice" of handyman trades where you're not allowed to exceed certain things without being a licensed plumber, electrician, etc. Put those in the "definitely won't do" category.

For the "might do" category, think of things you haven't been asked to do, or haven't yet felt comfortable doing, but they are within your scope of practice and current or future skill sets.

Then list out the things you definitely will do.

For each list, put all the tools needed. Do a gap analysis to see what tools you might need to buy, but since you're starting out on your own, maybe avoid buying expensive tools in the "might do" category.

If you have all of the tools you will need, even better, lay them out. Get a sense of how much space you need. Then break things down into the less commonly used tools. I would have a three tier system.

Tier 1 is stuff you'll take with you on every job. It sounds like you're already working for someone else, so you know this already. Some small pouch on the belt or small bag. I'd just keep using whatever you're using now unless you don't like it.

Tier 2 is stuff you'll probably use most times during the day and you'll want that easily accessible in your vehicle and make sure it's neatly organized, first level retrieval type stuff. So you don't have to dig around.

Tier 3 stuff you will use almost never but when you need it, you'll be glad you got it. This could be either be some contingency tool like an induction heater to remove a rusty bolt, or it could be a standard tool but for a job you don't do often like maybe nail guns if you don't hang doors often.

For the Tier 1 stuff I'd have some soft bags or pouches.

Tier 2 I'd run a mix of a soft open top Veto Pro Pac bag (here in AZ it doesn't rain but ymmv and you may want closed top), and also packout drawers or packout toolboxes that are job specific. One packout toolbox for drywall tools, one for door hanging, etc.

Tier 3 it would still be nice to have packout but it gets expensive so could even store them in rubbermaids or crates in the truck, by definition you don't need it often.

Nice thing about packout, like Adam showed in his pics, it's modular, you can stack stuff together from the truck and take in the modules you need for the job.

Last note, wait for Home Depot buy more save more (BMSM) sales on packouts, you can get them for 40% off and they run those maybe twice a year for a few weeks or a month at a time.

 

[alinc100]

Another thing to point out ,some of these systems are very heavy ,even when empty. Just another thing to be aware of.

 

[rust in the eye]

Having done a fair bit of "handyman" work I was a fan of a bucket and "BucketBoss" organizer for the core tools. Task/trade specific items in soft bags, good plastic hand carry boxes, "Sit,Stand,Tote" *boxes or those plastic totes with a two-piece lid often used by stores for stock shipments. I forget the proper name for these. A folding hand truck when needing to do a lot of schlepping.
The cost and weight of Packout type systems have always been a hard no for me. I'll give you they offer nice storage for fasteners and such but this can be accomplished at a much lower price.
The Packout stuff I see being used by others often winds up a disorganized mess anyway.
If you are fastidious and disciplined about returning things to their place I can see a benefit. I don't mind digging a little into a tool bag to fetch what I need.
You'll soon enough figure your needs, so I'd be reluctant to make an investment in something perhaps destined for a rummage sale. The stuff I mention is all inexpensive and could get you started just fine.
* Waterloo made these, sold under various brands, their own, Craftsman, even Snap On. Now discontinued but readily available second hand. They are strong, like bull.

 

[rust in the eye]

Electrical & plumbing fittings I have SMALL old school plastic Pack out style boxes, I’ve had these for over 15 years !

plumbing fittings
labeled 1/2, 3/4 & 1 inch + misc = straps

electrical MC cable and EMT conduit fittings
‘all have their own boxes and sizes

I don’t carry these every day

some of the biotech companies require specialize hardware
I have to use a lot of SS hardware so I have a box or 2 for those and I buy extras for inventory

you will find out real Quick what works for you -

The key is to stay organized and clean up & Out the truck van a few times a Month !
Dont Build up return items - return items weekly !

This

 

[danski0224]

the problem is when traveling do you just leave it in the bed of the truck run a chain thru $1,000’s in tools
or running into Depot - Prime Target for Theft or

That's why: van, not open bed pickup truck.

placing inside the cab = more moving them around

The loose stuff can also kill you in an accident.

 

[Banjorear]

Thank you, all. Lots of great advice.

Funny story, I just assumed all homes are kept neat and clean like mine. Went to do a re-caulking of a tub yesterday and the place was disgusting. Scum and hair all in the tub, mold everywhere. I had to clean the tub just to start.

It took me an hour longer because someone put clear silicone everywhere, I didn't see all of it and the new caulk wouldn't stick. Plus the apartment was as hot a sauna. Came out dripping wet. LOL.

That was a bit of an eye opener.

 

[Banjorear]

Having done a fair bit of "handyman" work I was a fan of a bucket and "BucketBoss" organizer for the core tools. Task/trade specific items in soft bags, good plastic hand carry boxes, "Sit,Stand,Tote" *boxes or those plastic totes with a two-piece lid often used by stores for stock shipments. I forget the proper name for these. A folding hand truck when needing to do a lot of schlepping.
The cost and weight of Packout type systems have always been a hard no for me. I'll give you they offer nice storage for fasteners and such but this can be accomplished at a much lower price.
The Packout stuff I see being used by others often winds up a disorganized mess anyway.
If you are fastidious and disciplined about returning things to their place I can see a benefit. I don't mind digging a little into a tool bag to fetch what I need.
You'll soon enough figure your needs, so I'd be reluctant to make an investment in something perhaps destined for a rummage sale. The stuff I mention is all inexpensive and could get you started just fine.
* Waterloo made these, sold under various brands, their own, Craftsman, even Snap On. Now discontinued but readily available second hand. They are strong, like bull.

Curious what Waterloo system you are referring to? I like their products and agree they are generally well made.

 

[danski0224]

Thank you, all. Lots of great advice.

Funny story, I just assumed all homes are kept neat and clean like mine. Went to do a re-caulking of a tub yesterday and the place was disgusting. Scum and hair all in the tub, mold everywhere. I had to clean the tub just to start.

It took me an hour longer because someone put clear silicone everywhere, I didn't see all of it and the new caulk wouldn't stick. Plus the apartment was as hot a sauna. Came out dripping wet. LOL.

That was a bit of an eye opener.

This is normal, not the exception.

Wait until you have to do a toilet....

I have refused to do toilet work because it isn't clean. I have had to specifically tell people to clean it before I get there.

But most importantly, you MUST do your due diligence when that call comes in for "a leaking toilet". Straddle it and very gently attempt to rock it between your legs- if it moves, just say no. Broken flanges, rotten flooring... have had a couple turn into bathroom remodels. Sometimes it is obvious that there is a serious problem, but not always. ALWAYS state a disclaimer for concealed damage, and that it is an additional cost and NOT included.

I refuse toilet jobs unless I can look at the actual site, and then still might refuse it.

I simply changed the toilet at my own house, on a slab. Prior owner busted the flange, filled it in with plumbers putty, and there was a significant gap around the riser. I'm glad that I knew how to fix it, and it still took hours (and there's only one). A plumber bill certainly would have been well over a grand. There was no way to know, until it came off of the floor.

Added: ANYTHING with "water damage" can (and usually does) turn into a nightmare. The customer (almost) ALWAYS knows that whatever it is, has been effed up for a long time. I had a "couple hour" drywall spot turn into a major 4 week project to solve a water intrusion issue.

It isn't always fun.

 

[Banjorear]

Well, I quit the guy I was working for. I guess he couldn't make payroll, so he shorted everyone 13 hours and said he will roll it into the next pay period.

Plus, I'm was out $108 for supplies due do his credit cards "not working". That was red flag #1. Not having credit is bad news for a business.

The final dagger was the pay. We agreed on one hourly wage and my paycheck was $10 an hour less. He said we never agreed to that.

I'm a retiree collecting a pension. I don't need this job, I wanted it. I learned a ton and I'm going to go full bore on getting my own thing going.

I'm keeping his tablet until he squares up in full with me. So disappointed, but it was a learning experience.

 

[LXCam]

You need to tell him to make you whole today or you’re turning into the state labor relations board. Without a contract you’re SOL about your wage but with him shorting you hours and inability to reimburse you for material it’ll be an issue for him.

Good luck, hopefully you’ll find an honest employer in the future.

 

[danski0224]

These latch together, unlike the older version that I have. Mine also don't have the required grey fillers on the sides, in order to use the colored inset boxes. I already have a bunch of inset boxes, so I am going to try these for some fitting assortments.

Small Toolbox L-BOXX 102 Transparent Baseline – Stackable Organizer Case with Clear Lid - L-BOXX - Work Clever. Click Together.

Small Tool Box L-BOXX 102 Transparent Baseline – Stackable Organizer Case with Clear Lid

l-boxx.com

 

[danski0224]

Well, I quit the guy I was working for. I guess he couldn't make payroll, so he shorted everyone 13 hours and said he will roll it into the next pay period.

That's never a good sign. At least you were in a position to quit.

Plus, I'm was out $108 for supplies due do his credit cards "not working". That was red flag #1. Not having credit is bad news for a business.

I have always been leery about putting up my money for company materials. Last employer took 2 weeks to pay out expenses, so I made sure not to have any after learning that lesson. Current employer pays on the following pay period, and so far I have been reimbursed for everything, but I still try to avoid it when possible.

I have certainly heard horror stories.

I am also no longer employed by prior employers where I have purchased stuff to keep the job moving. Another series of lessons.

The final dagger was the pay. We agreed on one hourly wage and my paycheck was $10 an hour less. He said we never agreed to that.

Got anything in writing on this?

 

[JohnX14]

OP - what types of jobs are you doing? The answer to your post can vary wildy and widely. What are you driving for a work vehicle? I'm not a huge fan of the packout style (not just MW) setups. Too much wasted space.

 

[Banjorear]

That's never a good sign. At least you were in a position to quit.

I have always been leery about putting up my money for company materials. Last employer took 2 weeks to pay out expenses, so I made sure not to have any after learning that lesson. Current employer pays on the following pay period, and so far I have been reimbursed for everything, but I still try to avoid it when possible.

I have certainly heard horror stories.

I am also no longer employed by prior employers where I have purchased stuff to keep the job moving. Another series of lessons.

Got anything in writing on this?

Unfortunately, no. I have the lower amount in writing. After my first day, he called me and realized my skill level was well beyond a "beginner" and we agreed to it verbally. With this being a verbal agreement, I know I'm probably beat on the extra money.

Does it anger me, of course. Overall, I took this a learning opportunity for the end game is start my own handyman business.

This thread has been very helpful as well. I really appreciated the water damage, rocking toilet bit for it's 100% spot on.

 

[danski0224]

Unfortunately, no. I have the lower amount in writing. After my first day, he called me and realized my skill level was well beyond a "beginner" and we agreed to it verbally. With this being a verbal agreement, I know I'm probably beat on the extra money.

You may be able to file for unemployment with the short check and expenses as a reason for terminating employment.

Does it anger me, of course. Overall, I took this a learning opportunity for the end game is start my own handyman business.

It isn't easy, and I keep finding that people basically do not want to pay. There is no shortage of work- if you want to bill out at $20 an hour.

But if you actually want to charge a real hourly rate, that's when the trouble starts. And even if you submit a "fixed price estimate", you have still taken a stab at guessing how many hours the task will take, and how much you want to make for each hour.

Costs for everything have gone up for some unknown reason , yet raising the billable rate for "handyman work" is much harder.

People forget the time spent going to get the materials as billable time.

As a sole proprietor, it is nearly impossible to get 2,000 billable hours per year compared to working a full time job. You can search it online, but a best case estimate is around 1,200. Take the money that you think you want to make per year, divide it by 1,200, and that's the absolute minimum per hour you need to charge. This doesn't include insurance or profit or lots of other expenses. You will have to turn down work, or reschedule later because of some ongoing project that has you busy.

And working for yourself has risks. If you are currently insured, you may not be covered if something happens while you are performing services for a fee.

The 1099 "helper" is really an employee, and you will get burned if something happens. That helper will not pass the subcontractor test.

And don't be that ******* retired guy being a handyman charging $20 an hour. Those people **** everyone else trying to do it for real. Even the hacks stay busy, screwing the bargain hunters over.

 

[Banjorear]

You may be able to file for unemployment with the short check and expenses as a reason for terminating employment.

It isn't easy, and I keep finding that people basically do not want to pay. There is no shortage of work- if you want to bill out at $20 an hour.

But if you actually want to charge a real hourly rate, that's when the trouble starts. And even if you submit a "fixed price estimate", you have still taken a stab at guessing how many hours the task will take, and how much you want to make for each hour.

Costs for everything have gone up for some unknown reason , yet raising the billable rate for "handyman work" is much harder.

People forget the time spent going to get the materials as billable time.

As a sole proprietor, it is nearly impossible to get 2,000 billable hours per year compared to working a full time job. You can search it online, but a best case estimate is around 1,200. Take the money that you think you want to make per year, divide it by 1,200, and that's the absolute minimum per hour you need to charge. This doesn't include insurance or profit or lots of other expenses. You will have to turn down work, or reschedule later because of some ongoing project that has you busy.

And working for yourself has risks. If you are currently insured, you may not be covered if something happens while you are performing services for a fee.

The 1099 "helper" is really an employee, and you will get burned if something happens. That helper will not pass the subcontractor test.

And don't be that ******* retired guy being a handyman charging $20 an hour. Those people **** everyone else trying to do it for real. Even the hacks stay busy, screwing the bargain hunters over.

Thank you for the advice and suggestions. I agree. I think the biggest thing I learned was I was charging too little. I did a few side jobs for friends and charged $50 an hour cash. I thought that was great.

The guy I was working charged (after all fees, service charge, etc) $577 for a three hour package. I was shocked how many people paid this for work they really could do themselves. For example, yesterday I fixed some fence paneling. It did take the three hours, some clamps, adhesive and screws. Very simple.

I'm thinking, if this customer would pay $577, then $100 an hour is a bargain.

Another issue that pushed me over the edge was he automatically adds a $50 disposal fee. I took it off on this job. There was a 4" piece of pine left over. I threw it in the back of the truck and told the customer it was a wash with the cost of materials vs removal of disposal fee.

 

[danski0224]

I'm thinking, if this customer would pay $577, then $100 an hour is a bargain.

I have found that people view "one guy" as a side jobber and not a "business". Especially without a lettered vehicle and even uniforms.

Customers definitely prefer a fixed price vs hourly, but sometimes there is a need for T&M.

Getting rid of the trash takes time. While I despise add on fees, it needs to be factored in the hourly rate or bid price.

 

[Banjorear]

I have found that people view "one guy" as a side jobber and not a "business". Especially without a lettered vehicle and even uniforms.

Customers definitely prefer a fixed price vs hourly, but sometimes there is a need for T&M.

Getting rid of the trash takes time. While I despise add on fees, it needs to be factored in the hourly rate or bid price.

Thank you. I was hoping, or banking on, my excellent reputation in the local school district would carry over to being someone folks deemed trustworthy around town. I've created a professional logo and considered getting "uniform" shirts made up, but I'd to get some traction before I do that.

I do get your point about a "business" vs. a solo jobber.

 

[danski0224]

Don't waste your time or money on a website. Unless you can do it all yourself.

None of my customers cared.

The only calls I got from it (presumably) were spam trying to sell me website stuff.

I pulled the plug on mine this year.

 

[zimman]

Don't waste your time or money on a website. Unless you can do it all yourself.

None of my customers cared.

The only calls I got from it (presumably) were spam trying to sell me website stuff.

I pulled the plug on mine this year.

Most handyman guys around me use Facebook as a go to. Especially in a "hometown info" page. Theses wives know who does good work and they'll post that up on a local page.
Zim

 

[danski0224]

As someone that doesn't do social media, I guess I might be missing out.

 

[rust in the eye]

Curious what Waterloo system you are referring to? I like their products and agree they are generally well made.

This is the first image I found on the net. Clearly absurd pricing, I think they were around a hondo new.

https://www.tetools.com/No.HP55420-Sit-Stand-Tote-Super-Shuttle-Tool-Cart

 

[rust in the eye]

Thank you, all. Lots of great advice.

Funny story, I just assumed all homes are kept neat and clean like mine. Went to do a re-caulking of a tub yesterday and the place was disgusting. Scum and hair all in the tub, mold everywhere. I had to clean the tub just to start.

It took me an hour longer because someone put clear silicone everywhere, I didn't see all of it and the new caulk wouldn't stick. Plus the apartment was as hot a sauna. Came out dripping wet. LOL.

That was a bit of an eye opener.

Either walk away( I would have on that one) or quietly charge a filth tax.
Went with a glazier friend for weekend side job once to replace a large picture window. House was a ******* disaster. Pulled back the filthy draperies and began removing the casing when bugs came falling out of the gap. He told the customer he had mismeasured the glass and the job couldn't be done that day. I don't recall him ever going back (I was very clear that I wasn't) and he probably ate the materials cost.
Some business you are better of without.