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My Mohawk system IA-10 lift install

bjcouche

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 11, 2010
Messages
509
Location
Ohio
Several people have asked questions about my custom lift install, so I’ll elaborate here. I must first preface this with the disclaimer that this is how I installed mine, which may or may not coincide with proper or approved methods. My goal with this install was to have no wires, hoses, or cables hanging over the lift, and I also wanted a fully clear floor with no bumps or seams in the concrete under the lift.
I had planned on having the System IA-10 from the very beginning of my shop build. While the shop was being built but before the concrete floor was poured, I determined the exact location for the lift. The shop floor was to be 6” thick but for added strength, I had the slab thickened to 12”at the lift location. I then had a grid of rebar installed based on the requirements found in the Mohawk installation manual. The installation manual had a requirement for an existing floor thickness with a minimum of 4.5” with no rebar required. If the floor didn’t meet those requirements or had cracks or other issues, the manual suggested a method to cut out a section of the floor and to pour a new section. The manual called for this new section to be 12” thick with the rebar grid. The additional concrete cost was minimal and the additional rebar was already onsite. The rebar was placed at a depth of about 6-7” from the top of the floor. That way, when I drilled the mounting holes in the concrete later, I would only be drilling 5-6” deep and would never have to worry about hitting the rebar.
The right (passengers) side would be the column that had the hydraulic pump. In the pictures you can see the right side has 4 pipes and 1 piece of rebar coming up through the gravel base. These are located about 7-8” from the post base so that there are no cracks or other concrete inconsistencies closer than 6” from any of the wedge anchors (per the install manual). The 1” pvc conduit runs under the gravel base from the right post location to the back wall of the shop coming through the floor at the breaker panel location. This conduit will be used to bring power to the lift underground instead of from overhead. The 1/2” pvc conduit runs under the gravel base from the right column to the left column. This conduit will be used to get power to an outlet mounted on the left column. Then there are two stainless steel hydraulic lines that go under the ravel base from the right column to the left column. I sleeved these in black split loom for added mechanical protection. Lastly there is a piece of rebar used to tie all the conduits and hydraulic lines together and to keep them vertical and in place.
At the left column, location, there is the two hydraulic lines and 1/2” pvc conduit coming up through the gravel base from the right column. There is also an additional 1” PVC conduit coming up in this location. It goes under the gravel base to the back wall. It is used for running an air line through it so that I will have an air hose reel mounted on that column. After the lift was installed, I pulled flexible plastic air brake line (similar to pex, except designed and rated for air) through the 1” conduit.
 

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bjcouche

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 11, 2010
Messages
509
Location
Ohio
The hydraulic line installation underground was a design choice. Mohawk sells (for a pretty penny) an “underground” hydraulic line kit. However I could find no documentation on how to install it, nor any documentation at all. After calling and talking to Mohawk directly (the Mohawk dealer in my area was not helpful) I learned how it was supposed to be installed. You were supposed to saw cut a trough in your concrete between the two columns and place the hydraulic lines in that trough, then fill the trough with epoxy or non shrink grout. I knew I wasn’t going to like that method. I wanted no seams, or bumps under a vehicle for jacks or other wheeled carts to catch on. I wanted to keep the space over the lift entirely clear as well. I purchased two 20’ lengths of 3/8” OD seamless, stainless steel hydraulic lines. The brand I bought was Swagelok part number SS-T6-S-035-20. The lines cost about $3.25/ft, and as it turns out is exactly the same type and brand that the came with the Mohawk lift. With 20’ lengths, I was able to bend them and have no joints under the concrete.
After the concrete was cured I installed the lift by mostly followed the installation manual. However, instead of routing the factory hydraulic lines overhead, I turned them 180 degrees downward and connected them to the lines that I had stubbed up through the floor. Before I connected them up though, I used compressed air to blow out the underground lines. Even though I had the lines capped off while the floor was being poured and curing, a good amount of water had condensed in the lines. Other than the two lengths of 20’ SS tube, I didn’t need to buy any additional tube. I was able to cut, bend and reuse the existing tube that the factory supplied. I did buy a fairly expensive ($200) tube bender specifically for this size and type of tube, Swagelok MS-HTB-6T. I was familiar with bending copper tube, and bending brake lines, etc. Having the right bender of the proper dimensions for the specific type of tube makes the best bends. Another tip, I was previously unfamiliar with making SS hydraulic lines so I asked a friend who was familiar with high pressure air and hydraulic systems. He told me to make my hydraulic line splices using Swagelok compression unions. I previously had bad experiences buying compression fittings from big box stores and using them on low pressure (water and air) systems. He assured me that the Swagelok unions when properly installed on the correct tube, would work, and were designed for this purpose, so I took his word for it. I bought 6 Unions part number SS-600-6. When installing them I was sure to install the unions exactly as the instructions stated. I tightened the nut finger tight, then with a wrench turned it exactly 1-1/4 turns. The factory Mohawk lines used single flare JIC fittings. Where I needed to connect to the factory fittings, I just used lengths of the factory lines. After all the lines were connected and the hydraulic (ATF) oil filled, I had exactly 0 leaks.
For the electrical, I installed a small 2 space breaker subpanel on the right column. I reduced the 1” conduit coming out of the floor to 3/4” and ran that into the breaker panel. I used a somewhat uncommon Square D Homeline breaker. It’s a 4 pole 2 space breaker (the panel on only has 2 spaces). The center two breakers have their handles tied together so that set of breakers is a 240V feed to the hydraulic motor. The outer two individual breakers I wired to the two duplex outlets on both the left and right columns. That way I have two separate 120V circuits available on each column. I have yet to install a cord reel that mounts alongside the air hose reel.
To protect the hydraulic lines and conduit coming out of the floor, I built a guard out of punched angle steel from a left over garage door project. I used pieces of wire shelving material for the grating. I painted the guard grey and installed an aluminum diamond plate top.
 

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churd9

Member
Joined
Nov 4, 2010
Messages
24
Does it have cable from side to side? If not what keeps it from falling if one side fails


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bottom feeder

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 10, 2012
Messages
331
Location
Utah
Excellent write-up on your install! I've been thinking about installing the exact same model of Mohawk in my future shop exactly as you described for a long time now, and it's extremely helpful to have such a thorough explanation. Please post more pictures if you don't mind.
 

TheGriff

Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2017
Messages
11
Location
Las Vegas, NV.
However, instead of routing the factory hydraulic lines overhead, I turned them 180 degrees downward and connected them to the lines that I had stubbed up through the floor.

Hello,
I am also going with the 1A-10. I like your idea for running the hydro lines under the ground to just outside of the posts. Did you drill holes in the posts to route your lines to the inside of the posts? Then attach to the factory lines that you turned 180 degrees downward?

Thank you,

Tony
 
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bjcouche

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 11, 2010
Messages
509
Location
Ohio
Old thread, but I'll clarify,
I drilled holes through the "posts" to route the hydraulic lines from outside the posts to the inside of the posts. For those unfamiliar with Mohawk lifts, the posts are made using 2 fork lift masts with a thinner sheet metal connecting between them. The thin metal just holds the masts together and isn't that structural. On other lift manufacturers the columns are simply bent steel, and I wouldn't feel comfortable drilling holes in it. In the pictures you can see I have a gray guard protecting and covering the lines from inadvertent damage. If you don't feel comfortable drilling a hole in the column, you could certainly run the lines all the way up the side of the column and then all the way back down.
 
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