How do I remove Harbor Freight Chipper/Shredder Rotary Disc?

[ALTEREGO]

Hello,

I’m trying to inspect, clean and repair a Harbor Freight Chipper Shredder (predator 212cc) and I’m having a hard time removing the rotary disc assembly.

I don’t have a puller so I borrowed a couple from my friend, but I’m not sure if there is a key/pin that needs to be removed first (see picture).



Anyone has done this before? Please let me know, thanks!

 

[kaymccampbell]

There should be a set screw right on top of the key. Then, if it's done right, another one 90 degrees from that. There should also have been a center bolt. I don't own that particular one, but mine is set up that way.

 

[theoldwizard1]

If there is no set screw, then it is likely a taper shaft press fit.

With light to medium pressure downward pressure on the disk WHILE IT IS HANGING FROM THE ENGINE stick a punch/drift up into the hole in the disc. One good whack with a BFH should be all it takes to jar it loose.

 

[ALTEREGO]

There should be a set screw right on top of the key. Then, if it's done right, another one 90 degrees from that. There should also have been a center bolt. I don't own that particular one, but mine is set up that way.

Thank you for the reply Kay. I didn’t see any screws at all, there is only one hole and it looks to correspond to the key/pin shown in the picture above. Here is a picture in case that helps.

 

[kaymccampbell]

Thank you for the reply Kay. I didn’t see any screws at all, there is only one hole and it looks to correspond to the key/pin shown in the picture above. Here is a picture in case that helps.

And, down inside that hole should be a set screw. It has a hexagonal hole in it to accept an Allen wrench.
Here's what one typically looks like.

 

[ALTEREGO]

If there is no set screw, then it is likely a taper shaft press fit.

With light to medium pressure downward pressure on the disk WHILE IT IS HANGING FROM THE ENGINE stick a punch/drift up into the hole in the disc. One good whack with a BFH should be all it takes to jar it loose.

First of all, thanks for the help OldWizard!

I don’t think there is a screw on the back (see pictures above). I tried with a puller but after a few threads it didn’t work, I was afraid to damage it so I didn’t keep going.


Is this how you suggest to use the punch?

 

[ALTEREGO]

And, down inside that hole should be a set screw. It has a hexagonal hole in it to accept an Allen wrench.

Here's what one typically looks like.

Oh I see what you mean now.

If I remember correctly what I could see inside that tiny hole looked like one end of a small pin/key, like the other end of the pin/key shown in the first picture. I tried punching it down but it didn’t budge, I hope it is actually a set screw and I missed it.

It didn’t look like a set screw (allen or otherwise) but I could be wrong, I’ll look again more carefully and report back.

Thank you again for your help!

 

[theoldwizard1]

First of all, thanks for the help OldWizard!

I don’t think there is a screw on the back (see pictures above). I tried with a puller but after a few threads it didn’t work, I was afraid to damage it so I didn’t keep going.


Is this how you suggest to use the punch?

Yes. The small amount of pressure on the back is important.

You don't need a BFH. Just a good ball peen. If it is a press fit, a couple of good whacks will jar it loose.

 

[joey1320]

Harbor Freight, for however crappy they are with some things, usually has an exploded diagram of their engines, motors and such.

Page 23 shows the assembly but I can't see any set screws, even though your picture seems to prove one is there.

Hope this helps!

https://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/62000-62999/62323.pdf

 

[BillK]

According to the parts diagram that joey linked to there is a long bolt that goes in the middle of the plate to hold it on. If that is the case then there is no need for a setscrew. The chipper plate is probably just stuck real good. I have had good luck with putting a puller on and cranking it down as tight as I can with an impact and then smacking the end of the puller center bolt with a hammer. That will usually jar it loose.

 

[theoldwizard1]

The chipper plate is probably just stuck real good. I have had good luck with putting a puller on and cranking it down as tight as I can with an impact and then smacking the end of the puller center bolt with a hammer. That will usually jar it loose.

"real good" = tapered press fit.



Puller not required if you can get something behind disc #37 and put some pressure on it from behind. Screw the center bolt partially back in and give it a couple of good whacks. It should pop.

 

[ALTEREGO]

Thank you again for the help! I'm going to give it another try tomorrow. I assume that there is no set screw, it doesn't look like there is one (after triple checking the hole) and the diagram does not show one.

If that is the case, then what is the function of the key/pin showing in the picture? It won't prevent the disc (#37) from sliding off?

I think my puller set up is not very strong (first picture on post #6). The puller bolt is too thick and it hits the key/pin so I used a punch to slide pass the pin but it weakens the pull.

I will try putting enough wood behind the disc to create pressure (without bending or breaking anything) from at least two sides of the disc so it stays even and then I'll screw the center bolt and I'll give it a whack and report back. I hope I don't damage the thread/bolt.
Wish me luck!

 

[joey1320]

I would consider getting a can of lubricant and spraying it into the little hole and around the shaft assembly.

 

[Showkey]

I would be shock if it turns out to a tapered fit.

1. It’s expensive
2. Not good for vibration.......it’s a 5-8 pound disk, 3000 + rpm, with extreme shock loading.
3. Under same perimeters a light weight flywheel often shake loose with no load.

Think how easy a drill press Chuck falls out with the slightest vibration or side load and speed.

Taper fit is only common on generator rotors. Speed but no side load, Like 1-3” log being jammed in the Side chute.

 

[jgundermann]

That is exactly what I did!

 

[ALTEREGO]

I would consider getting a can of lubricant and spraying it into the little hole and around the shaft assembly.

Hi there Joey,

I guess great minds think alike hahaha! I did use my "special sauce" composed of ATF + Break Fluid + Acetone, it should suffice.

I would be shock if it turns out to a tapered fit.

1. It’s expensive
2. Not good for vibration.......it’s a 5-8 pound disk, 3000 + rpm, with extreme shock loading.
3. Under same perimeters a light weight flywheel often shake loose with no load.

Think how easy a drill press Chuck falls out with the slightest vibration or side load and speed.

Taper fit is only common on generator rotors. Speed but no side load, Like 1-3” log being jammed in the Side chute.

Hi Showkey,
So... just whacking it won't work? How do you think the disc is held? How should I remove it? Please advise, thanks for your help!

That is exactly what I did!

JGundermann,

What exactly did you do?

And did you do it with this exact same model?

Any pictures by any chance?

Please let me know, thanks.

 

[southwow]

I vote press fit. Usually, you'd pull the whole shaft and use press plates or a bearing splitter... if this were a transmission. If there isn't a set screw in the hole, you can bet it is pressed on.

Soak it with penetrating lube and try your puller again tomorrow.

 

[Showkey]

Center bolt with key way. Need better pictures of the crank end. The key sure looks in place. If it was taper shaft the key would not be visible.

The part diagram is not reliable or accurate??

Was this purchased new or used ?

Did you remove a Center crank bolt when you removed the shedder knife ......????????

It maybe press fit now from rust.......but it was not pressed on when it was built.

If this must come off..........make sure the bolt is out, heat the disk flame area really hot. Pull the rotor disk off the shaft.

If the service can be done as is, leave the disk in place. Better photos of the crank end to show the bolt bolt, thread hole or end of a cap screw ????? If the crank bolt is missing I would be concerned about future catastrophic failure.

This is more typical of chipper shredder construction. Note key, set screw and crank end bolt in second attachment.



View attachment 1063353

 

[Showkey]

Another typical rotor setup, note center bolt holding shredder plate:

 

[ALTEREGO]

Center bolt with key way. Need better pictures of the crank end. The key sure looks in place. If it was taper shaft the key would not be visible.

The part diagram is not reliable or accurate??

Was this purchased new or used ?

Did you remove a Center crank bolt when you removed the shedder knife ......????????

It maybe press fit now from rust.......but it was not pressed on when it was built.

If this must come off..........make sure the bolt is out, heat the disk flame area really hot. Pull the rotor disk off the shaft.

If the service can be done as is, leave the disk in place. Better photos of the crank end to show the bolt bolt, thread hole or end of a cap screw ????? If the crank bolt is missing I would be concerned about future catastrophic failure.

This is more typical of chipper shredder construction. Note key, set screw and crank end bolt in second attachment.



View attachment 1063353

Hi Keyshow,

Thank you for taking the time to help me with this, I sincerely appreciate everyone’s help!

As per your questions:

The part diagram is not reliable or accurate??

Could be, I don’t expect much from HF.

Was this purchased new or used?

Used.

Did you remove a Center crank bolt when you removed the shedder knife ......????????

Yes, I removed the center bolt (see pictures below) as well as one of the hammer knives with it's corresponding bolt. The L-hammer was cracked, awaiting hammer replacements from HF.

Not sure this are any better but I took a bunch more pictures, hopefully one or two are better than the previous ones.

Center bolt:









Keyhole from the side/top:





Key/pin inside:



Tentative setup to put pressure from the back:

 

[ALTEREGO]

More pictures of the crank:

 

[ALTEREGO]

I just got an email from a HF representative with the following instructions/pictures:

 

[ALTEREGO]

 

[joey1320]

Cool. Straightforward.
Good luck!

 

[Showkey]

Yup, perfect ..........a little heat on the rotor hub might help and pull it off. The heat will really make things a lot easier. Deep impact socket down the hub would make a perfect platform to pull against and booger the threads in the end of the crank.

 

[ALTEREGO]

Cool. Straightforward.
Good luck!

Yup, perfect ..........a little heat on the rotor hub might help and pull it off. The heat will really make things a lot easier. Deep impact socket down the hub would make a perfect platform to pull against and booger the threads in the end of the crank.

Thank you Joey and Showkey,

I was able to pull the disc out, do the necessary repairs/maintenance and then I realized I need a new tire and I can't find it on the HF website nor the local store. I email the customer service team that helped me with the other replacement parts so hopefully won't be too expensive.

For the time being, I managed to install two smaller tires, not ideal but....


Anyways, thank you again for all your help!

 

[BillK]

Do you need just the tire or a complete wheel assembly ? Tractor Supply has been my source for those for the last few years. They have almost always had what i needed in stock.

 

[ALTEREGO]

Do you need just the tire or a complete wheel assembly ? Tractor Supply has been my source for those for the last few years. They have almost always had what i needed in stock.

Hi BillK,

I have the rim, the tube and tire are for sure bad I probably need the whole wheel assembly.

I’ll look up Tractor Supply, thank you for the recommendation.

 

[Flyinryan]

Thank you Joey and Showkey,

I was able to pull the disc out, do the necessary repairs/maintenance and then I realized I need a new tire and I can't find it on the HF website nor the local store. I email the customer service team that helped me with the other replacement parts so hopefully won't be too expensive.

For the time being, I managed to install two smaller tires, not ideal but....


Anyways, thank you again for all your help!

Good morning, I know this post is over two years old. Did you end up using a puller to get the disc off. I’m putting on a new engine since I bent the crankshaft lol

 

[ALTEREGO]

Good morning, I know this post is over two years old. Did you end up using a puller to get the disc off. I’m putting on a new engine since I bent the crankshaft lol

Hi Flyinryan,

Yes, I followed the instructions on post #23 (see below) and used a puller similar to the one on post # 22. I remember it was really stuck but that's about all I remember hahaha. Let us know if you need more help, pictures are always appreciated. There is a bunch of knowledgeable, kind and skilled people in this forum, you got this!

 

[Flyinryan]

Hi Flyinryan,

Yes, I followed the instructions on post #23 (see below) and used a puller similar to the one on post # 22. I remember it was really stuck but that's about all I remember hahaha. Let us know if you need more help, pictures are always appreciated. There is a bunch of knowledgeable, kind and skilled people in this forum, you got this!

I appreciate your reply! I did exactly what you did. I used a two jaw puller and my impact wrench. Came off quickly. I put grease on the shaft of the new engine and the disc went back on with a tap of the hammer. Easiest way was to use a screwdriver with a socket on the end, put it into the hole and tap it until it seated up to the shaft of the engine.

 

[nadogail]

Harbor Freight gets a lot of bad comments, but I have had good service from my few requests for technical support.

 

[ALTEREGO]

Harbor Freight gets a lot of bad comments, but I have had good service from my few requests for technical support.

@nadogail funny you mention that. I actually had the complete opposite experience. I tried getting help with my question and after I was ignored for weeks I decided to escalate the issue (probably a little too high). Only then I had technical support email me, call me, call me again, call me after and even issue a gift certificate. Sad that it had to come to that and I'm glad you have had a positive experience. I hardly buy anything from their store, but is good to know they are getting better.

 

[Tex_13F]

About to try a two-jaw puller

Been shooting Kroil down the shaft

This thing is on wicked tight

 

[nadogail]

Sometimes the best way is heat and brute force.
Back in my High School days I worked at an automotive machine shop and engine rebuilder.
One day a customer saw me hammering on a puller trying to get a gear off a shaft. The customer said to my boss “I would Fire anybody who would beat on a puller. My boss, who owned the shop, said I will fire anyone who would not”.
Sometimes you are damed if you do, and damed if you don’t.

 

[lrgk9]

More pictures of the crank:

Got it to pop out!
Got a long 12”-14” foundation nail and ground the hammer head end down enough so the diameter would fit down the shaft but was to big to enter the threaded end at the shaft.

Hit that sucker hard and then harder and it popped loose!