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Yup, have a full selection of tools like this. I can change the timing belt on a Ford SVT focus. They only built about 10k of those heads over three years. The cams and pullies have no timing marks and mate using a tapered compression fitting allowing infinite "adjustment" (otherwise known as...

After looking through all of these, I need to up my game...... Looks like I will be spending some money on amazon in the near future.

On anything over about 1.5" I just use my miter saw. Anything under and i use the ratcheting type cutter mentioned above. It may not be perfect but it has always performed well for me.

Generally flush cut is only for delicate and soft materials. Due to the shape of the cutting face to get a flush or semi-flush cut, the cutting edge is inherently weak. Staying out of carbide and such, they are all soft. Klein makes a good one that I use all the time for copper and zip ties...

The problem with the deadblow is you are dependent on the shock wave and they generate a smoother force not a sharp shock wave. My guess is you couldn't get it to separate with a deadblow hammer.

Corrosion X is phenomenal. I found another wax like product that I am trying on a drill press shortly. Supposedly you heat up the part just a little, nothing hot enough to damage anything, and then apply it. Some car restoration guys are using it as a coating to have the "bare metal" look on...

I first found them at a local Napa. Call a few places or amazon one and get it in two days.

And that link just got saved.........