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Its a dirt-simple tool. Don't overthink it I'm sure theres a $500 OTC available from the Snap-On truck, but this will work fine. I have a similar one. https://www.amazon.ca/VEVOR-Differential-Housing-Spreader-Axles/dp/B0DK4J92T4/

My zoning and cash-flow were the two main restrictions... maxed out both.

My 4' fixtures are on the sides of the work bay area. None directly overhead.

I assumed it was within sight, since 10'. OP has now clarified.

Pin/sleeve is often used for these higher amp connections. I would hardwire though, as those get really pricey. At 10' I'm content to use the breaker as the disconnect.

Drywall defeats the whole purpose of mounting anything anywhere, and having a durable wall surface in a shop (where things gets banged around). "Looks nice" can take a hike.

+1 on plywood. 1/2" was enough for me. T&G started at 5/8". Painted it after it was up.

i got this one when it was only $50 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0DCNSLL3G So far so good. More jam than 1/4" driver gun and of course bigger/heavier. Can't complain for the price. Edit: i dont use it to free super-stubborn things. Regularly serviced lugnuts are fine. Its a convenience tool. I...

They aren't taxed here. Not a permanent structure, nor allowed to be.

And immediately up until 'affordable' fibre, copper was used. Look at how much copper is hanging from your local power/tel poles. Lightning would vapourize a cat 6 run before it gets to your house. The bonding path of your electrical system is the lower-resistance path anyway (assuming a...

Metal siding and/or roof are worse for blocking signal than trees.

Cat5E is all I have to my shop and does everything I need. No lightning protection.

You can get 20-30gal portables that put out ~10scfm @90psi. (also 3hp) Based on your old machine, that's where I'd start again. Would NOT consider an oil-less unit.

What I like about those Barinna strips is how skinny they are. I put them on the edge of shelving that runs the length of my shop.

We cut down allen keys/tools at work all the time. Use a pipe handle for leverage. Can use a chunk in a matching-size socket, maybe a thru-drive style. There's no set or 3 that covers all the bases. We cant be disassembling half an engine to tighten a clamp or leak, over a tool clearance issue.

I used 6" block and 2x6" sill to cover them over. Outer wall sheathing drops below the sill. If you are filling the block cores, then i dont see the need to widen the sill plate.

18kw is a substantial load. Do you have the headroom on your electrical service? I would do a tank heater. On a timer or switch.

One of my pet-peeves is cords that get coiled too tightly. Puts a nasty memory in the cord and increased tendency to not pay them out, and they heat up more. I still coil my cords by hand. Big arm-span loops. Same way normal people coil a garden hose.

I have built most of my major storage from dimensional lumber. Fit in a few mfr'ed shelving units and old kitchen cabinets to round it out - but even those are limiting and get shuffled out as i come up with something better. Post #3 shows a cantilever style I employ also. Usually room for a...

I put 1/2" plywood on the walls.. refuse to use OSB - too many bad experiences. Ceiling is still open. It will be white liner panels when done, but may strap it first as an easier way to retain insulation and VB.