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If you’re opening up walls, change as many of the closet doors to pocket doors as you can (m.bath, powder room, closet out by the deck. Ignore the people criticizing beds in front of windows, it’s extremely common. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

As others have said, contact who you got the trusses from, or consult the truss design drawings that were used for permitting. Probably somewhere in the 40#ll/40#dl range.. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

THIS The reason you don’t want to listen to mob opinion about this stuff is because as others have eluded to, vapor barriers/retarders are a location dependent science that has been evolving for decades. The information in the post above is accurate.. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Is there already a vapor retarder in place? One thing you don’t want to do is encapsulate the insulation between vapor barriers. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

:thumbup:

when you return the DC, make sure you pick up either upgraded bags or a canister filter that will filter down to 2 microns. at 30 microns, you're still breathing in all the "poisonous" dust

are you sure that your garage is wired with 12/2? (im only asking because it wouldn't be normal to wire a circuit with 12/2 and then put a 15A breaker on it, unless the load on the circuit is a very long way from the breaker.)

I'd recommend some sort of wet grinding.. it creates a slurry that's washed off. increases the life of the blade and much less likely to give you (or your neighbors) cancer from breathing in all the dust.

growing up we lived in a house that had a cast iron Hunter fan in every room. I guarantee this box or one very similar to it was used in the rooms with the "small Hunters".. in the room with the big hunters, the boxes were mounted to blocking very similar to the image on the first page. if...

that's a flat wrench without the offset or reversible feature.. not really the same thing as OP posted..

He didn't say anything about needing a portable saw (that I read, anyway). He asked about a table saw for $150, at that price, he's not going to get a portable jobsite saw (and in my experience, they're fine for rough carpentry, but you wouldn't want to use them for any sort of finish work)

they're actually VERY different. we seal all sorts of finished masonry from brick to cmu and none of it is a filler of any sort. I'm only saying that if you walk into a store and tell someone you want a block sealer, they're not going to give you a block filler. at least anywhere in the...

great looking bench..

those are pretty slick (and cheap).. I might look into them myself..

they have them at the big box home improvement stores as well..

looks good. If you have the time, it might be a better idea to extend that end board over so that it also bears on the stub post (last picture) agree with the others, you want the handles to be proud of all framing

THIS.. aside from a hand plane or hydrant wrench I have on a bookcase at work..

just about any decent condition craftsman table saw on the US craigslist can be had for that.. (dont know about the UK though) stay away from their "flex drive" models, look for a traditional belt driven table saw with cast iron table and trunnion. the saws from the 70s-80s-90s are completely...

I'm surprised that nobody has recommended a block filler. always prime with an oil based block filling primer (specifically named as block filler), then oil based exterior finish coat. obviously, if this wall is the exterior wall for a basement, make sure the waterproofing used when the...

I wouldn't mind it if there was 2-3' coiled up, but to have that much coiled up seems silly. I am curious as to why you didn't go with ANY of the other package kits if you were paying an HVAC guy to do the final connections, anyway.. ? To me, it seems the ONLY benefit of the mr cool kit is...