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I used 12ga. Hot rolled and so far (4 years now) its held up amazing well for as much as I use it. One of my favorite things about it is I can make notes on it with a sharpie and it wipes right off with a little brake cleaner. I didn’t have a sheet metal brake so I installed a metal cutting...

Been there done that. I did a test with standard all thread and it wore out very fast, ACME is the way to go. As far as eliminating the side to side movement or slop in the legs I made a jamb bolt to lock the legs when I have the table at its desired height.

First let me say, very nice build and a great shop! This next part is going to come across as overly critical but it’s really more that I feel I’m missing something. Why build an entire steel frame to hold these cabinets? I have a similar setup with the Harbor Freight cabinets (thanks to Stevo...

I just received my mini cast iron set this morning. It's very rare for me to see something and just purchase it without hesitating but this product solves so many issues for me. cant wait to put them to work and thanks to th OP of this thread, I would have otherwise never know about this product.

Original pics reposted.

Also, with the legs operating independently you can set the table at an angle. I also attached a sketch of how I built the legs. You will want to use acme thread, standard allthread will wear out very quickly.

I would strongly recommend not connecting the drive mechanisms but instead let each leg operate independently. This will allow you to level the table on any surface.

A quick sketch of how I did the legs.

I hope these pics are large enough. Will have to do for now.

Looks like photbucket which is who I used to link my pictures has locked everyone's account down unless you pay them a yearly user fee of $400. Suffice to say I'm looking for another 3rd party host. I'll try to get them back up soon.

Designed this to store under my work bench.

Ok, I now understand your need for the stem wall at the front. If it were me I would probably pour a stem wall there but I would also have a control joint 2 or 3 feet inside the door running parallel with the stem wall. This way if there is any expansion or settling the stem wall won't act as a...

First off I'm not a concrete guy but I've never seen a stem wall extended under a garage door. The whole concept is for the slab to rise and fall especially in areas with very expansive soils. If you poured the slab on top of a stem wall in only one place it would effectively create a situation...

That's a killer idea. Nice job!

I suppose it's a matter of perspective. I install artwork and mirrors for a living and when someone says "it's heavy and I want to hang it on my wall" it's usually in the two - four hundred pound range. I would never hang that kind of weight on a key hole slot. Another advantage with a French...

French cleat is also flush mount if done correctly. Problem with a key hole mount is the odds of them lining up with the wall studs while at the same time centering the piece where you want it is unlikely. French cleat also is better at distributing the weight more evenly

As blkSrt suggested, use a French cleat. Route out a 45degree angled slot in the back and mount a corresponding 45 degree piece to the wall It will be the strongest way to mount it short of screwing through it into studs. They also make a product called EZ bar that I use a lot for heavy artwork...

Way late to this but I have access to about 15 decommissioned electric wheel chair bases. It would be the perfect platform to build off of.

Adjustable height is the way to go imo especially if you are working with limited space and needing something to be multipurpose. I can set mine up as a drafting table which works great for tig welding. I like the design, if it works for you build it. Here's a link to mine for ideas...

I really like your design. found with mine that being able to level the table quickly at any height is invaluable.