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Electrical... Running basic mag switch and upgraded to a Siemens SIRIUS overload relay...

I'm running remote manifolds for all my accessories so everything fits nice and tight to the machine. I also needed extra ports for unloader valve, shutoff and my giant oil filled psi gauge... Using copper lines and brass barrel compression fittings for everything.

I was planning a compressor upgrade for the garage and came across a used Saylor Beall 705. It had a newer Dayton 5 HP single phase motor, and the tank looked decent. The tank was a Buckeye Boiler with a thick head and shell. .201" / .196". After making a deal for $150, I brought it home...

I have rebuilt a few 705 and 707 pumps over the years. Recently I was putting one together for my garage. Long story, but I will never support anything saylor beall again. They are horrible to buy parts from and will try to force you to just buy a new pump. I've also learned there's nothing...

How thick can you build up babbitt?

Unfortunately my crank is beyond .030". So I have to scrap it. New cranks are expensive. I'm gonna look around for a bit for a used crank. Saylor beall was no help, they just pushed me to their vendors, which they didn't want to help, just sell me a new pump.

any updates?? Also would like to see some photos what you did on the heads ports. I've done quite a bit of head porting for race cars back in the day, so was going to work some magic on my 705 head.

I believe they are sold by Coleman. They are called the Coleman Powermate SC23. And yes a horrible China copy of the SB 705. I've seen one in person and they look like junk. Not sure what the insides look like. And yes all the SB parts will have cast in part numbers. I have a very early 90s...

Can I have his information maybe I can call and they can locate me a used crank?

I've been calling around and getting prices for a new one $500 to $800. There's not a lot of used parts out there available

Did you buy that 703 pump? I'm in need of a crankshaft for my 705. Ended up buying a bad compressor, got screwed and need to replace crank.

Old thread I know... But where do I buy over sized rods bearings? My 705 pump spun a bearing and runined my crank. :(

OP any updates? How is the compressor holding up>?

Yes it makes sense thank you. The house is 1955. So no wrapping. Just tar paper. The stucco is slightly standing off of the studs. Enough maybe to get a few pieces of paper wedged in there. I currently have the z flash behind the tar paper and against the studs.

Ya I can do that. Also, you think I would need to caulk it on that top edge along stucco? Not sure if I should leave it open for water to escape

The z flash does go up 2 inches behind the stucco. I was worried about water sitting in the area on top of the flashing. It doesn't slope there. It's flat.

I'm building a lean to shed behind garage between stucco wall and cinder block wall. Pitch will be 12 deg. I am not a framer or roofer, but I am a 25 year metal fabricator and machinist. Working with wood is so much cleaner and calming for the soul! lol I had a question on how to properly meet...

Old farm tractor seat on some acme thread for height adjustment. The arms allow you to swing around my welding table. 1in blanchard ground. I'm 240lbs and it doesn't even flex. 🙂

I bought the harbor freight Bauer bandsaw and swag offroad table. Works incredible together. Only complaint is the Bauer alum housing that supports the upper wheel flexes a bit during use.

Just saying that's what they offer for 1 phase. Even the higher cfm Eastwood is 3 phase. There must be something to the scrolls that need more powerful motors for the higher cfm? I could run a piston pump compressor 220 single phase and get about 30 CFM. But I'm trying to get away from the noise