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Im surprised it sold for that much! They are $160 brand new from Amazon without a pilot arc... and $210 with a pilot arc. If you use a cut off wheel often enough right now, your plasma will replace 80% of that work and will get the job done in a fraction of the time. Consumable cost is similar...

I owned a Duolift 6500 (screw drive),.. and it worked OK for years on cars and light weight vehicles. As soon as I started lifting heavier vehicles, it began to jam and stall all the time. This ended up being the straw that broke the camels back, and I ended up taking the lift to the scrap yard...

I also agree that screw-type lifts are a major PITA - and you should start planning on upgrading to a hydraulic one. Having said that, I edited my post above with clearance measurements. Usually, these will never change. However, if the sensor for "max down" has failed, you could easily force...

Ah yes... the Duolift. The lift nut and jam nut, when worn down, can occasionally jam - leaving a car stuck up in the air. There's supposed to be a cover on those nuts with a circle that you can stick a screw driver or punch through... but it looks like you removed it? Anyway, if the two get...

Its a Walco Whistler Rotary Cutter (bush hog) that I bought used for a couple hundred dollars (it was beat up and I had to weld a few patches onto the top to get the gearbox back in line). I'm absolutely under-powering it with only ~14 HP to the PTO... but... it gets the job done driving slowly...

The guseted trolly braces reminds me of Autolifters of America 2 post lifts

My 5' rotary cutter can easily take down trees up to 4" in diameter, keeps me well above any snakes or ticks,... but it does require you to have a tractor with decent PTO power. Having said that, have you looked for well used tractors (25 to 50hp) in your area?

Why do you need a flail mower though? Why not a rotary cutter/brush hog (i assume you have a tractor)? If you need an offset because of sloped hills... you could DIY one if you have a backhoe...

All of the electronics you mentioned have internal fuses that need to be checked and replaced as needed

No clue

There are flats on both of the ball joint ends, as shown in the attached screen shot from your video. The main body link should have a sinch ring over a split thread (or, in your case I think it was a bolted clamp over the split threads). Once the sinch ring is knocked away (or clamp loosened)...

A propane torch is NOT the torch I was mentioning. Propane doesnt get hot enough. You need oxy/propane... or an induction heater. You need to get the metal at LEAST pink... verging on red. That little propane heater is doing nothing. Also... you should use the appropriate sized wrench (and...

You can cut as deep/thick as the remaining life on your cutoff wheel. This is true for any abrasive cutoff tool though *shrugs*

Ive used two Vevor motors so far... one in my tire machine (1.5 hp) and another on my zip line rope tow (2hp). They seem fine and have worked well... but i havent done a true hp test on them. If the bigger one fits and is within budget... its a decent buy.

3 HP 1735 rpm 18 amps at 230v .... thats a power hungry motor! If you want to save money... toss a Vevor motor in there (check shaft size and mounting plate dimensions first)...

Even after watching the video, I still dont understand why anyone would use or buy one. Just use your hand and unscrew it. If its really seized, use heat on the threads (torch or induction heater) and your wrench to get it moving. There's also a school of thought that, if the outter is so...

Its dust and dirt that you dont want in there... and worm clamps tend to cut the rubber boots... and zip ties dont grip enough. A worm clamp can be used in a pinch... but if you took all that time to swap out inner and outter tie rods, as well as the boots,.. and do an alignment... why not just...

The right tool with a bunch of clamps is less than $17 usd... just buy it

Well used vbelts get treated the same as well used underwear - toss it out. :-p

Are you able to slide a low profile floor jack under the front and rear center supports of the car? For lowered cars I usually bring them in as I normally would any other car and then roll a low profile floor jack under the rear center support (assuming it has one), pump it up once or twice...