Search results

For me it was absolutely worth it. Back in the day I worked at a dealer and had a single post in ground lift in my bay but still had to roll around on the garage floor at home for years. Got mine installed 2 years ago and have been thankful for it every time I've used it. It's probably paid for...

FWIW, I don't own a MaxJax but when I was doing research on lifts there were a few posts about the quality of the included anchors and that they may not have been acutal Wej-It, or something to that effect. Others went and purchased their own brand name anchors. For my 2 post, I went and got...

There was some guy on YT who was doing a tour of his shop and he had a shop vac hung from the ceiling on a retractable contraption. It was pretty cool but I can't remember who it was.

Where did you get your parts from? There was a place in BC. Not sure if they're still around.

I've been running my 50K Mr Heater Big Maxx for 11 years with no issues (knock on wood) other than the common clogging of the fitting for the pressure switch hose. I got mine from TSC on sale for around $500 back then I think. I don't even want to know what they sell for now. As for replacement...

I've got a big plastic "drip tray" meant for oil changes that I put under the Auger Housing after I put my blower in the garage. I try and knock off as much of the crud as possible before brining it in. One the all the snow has melted in the tray, I carefully roll the blower back and then tilt...

The terminal strip on mine does have the "G" wire so I guess it would have fan control as well. I don't really have a need for it. As long as the heater comes on and keeps everything warm when it's -20 outside that's all that matters to me. Edit: Finished the install and everything went as...

Not really. When the house was built I ran a 3 wire in the wall and ceiling to the area where the heater was going to be hung. I could run another wire on the outside but if I can make it work with the existing wire that's what I'll try and do first.

Seeing this just unlocked a memory. We had one of these we used for alignments in high school auto shop back in '88. I remember someone raising the scissors and they got jammed underneath the rocker panels of a Pontiac Sunbird (yes I'm old lol) and the teacher got pissed. I don't remember how...

I've been running a Big Maxx 50K heater since 2013 along with a simple Honeywell battery powered heat-only T-stat. I've had no issues other than the common one where the orifice tube ****** gets clogged which I need to clear out twice a year. Since I can't leave anything alone lol, I wanted to...

I'm over 50 and would still take my 2 post over rolling around on the ground. I've done that far too long. If I can still mow the lawn I should still be able to position lift pads lol. Working at the dealer back in the day I hated the 4 post lifts. There was always something in the way...

I can't tell if the bottom one has a groove at the end. If it does, my guess would be a brake shoe spring tool.

Yeah not even worth responding to. Since this thread is so "funny" :rolleyes:

I recently got their metric Chrome 1/2" Drive standard & deep sets via Amazon. All my imperial stuff is from Snap-on from waaay back in the day when it was still somewhat affordable but I wasn't going to take out a second mortgage to add on to my metric sets so I went with Tekton. I had never...

Oh hell no. Mine is mounted in about as a narrow space as it can get and it's rock solid when lifting my 16' x 8' door.

That seems to be the case with everything now though. Back in 2013 I got a quote for a steel 16' door and it was about $2000. Got a new quote a few weeks back and it shot up to $4200 for the same type of door. Even the quote I got for my lift back then quadrupled in price now.

Already planned for that. Got some 1" Foam Backer Rod to stuff at the bottom. 70runner also had a suggestion to use some plastic discs cut to size and use a socket to square the disc at the bottom of the hole. I'll try the backer rod first since I now have a roll of it.

Holes are drilled through the slab, so they will be hammered into the ground beneath. Moving everything isn't really an option right now. To maintain proper edge distances I'd have to move more than 3 inches anyway.

I'm using Hilti Hit-Z 3/4" x 8 1/2" Threaded Anchors as part of their epoxy system. Some of the holes may be slightly off but not enough to warrant bending anchors. I'll start drilling and hope for the best lol.

Thanks. Yeah the start is what I'm concerned about and hoping it'll follow along on its own. I think I'm going to use a 4 cutter bit instead of the 2 cutter style. The 4 cutter bit is listed for cutting through re-bar as well but I think it would center itself better at the top of the hole...