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About the frame thing, I think it depends on the vehicle. Probably my Aviator has enough flex to allow a good 1/2" of unevenness. But I remember years ago I had a Triumph TR7. That unibody was so stiff it would rock back and forth like a brick. I doubt if it flexed even 1/8". You are right...

Its a Lincoln Aviator. (Similar to Explorer). Not such high ground clearance. I can't get under at all without jacking up. If the front is up 10.5" that is only about a 6degree incline. Not much at all. If the supports are 2x12's (Actually 11.25" wide) and 24" long, then it's pretty stable. Make...

Therein lies my problem. I'd need a huge jack and stands to get my truck up that high. And then I'd need to put some blocks of lumber or something under it to feel safe. Whereas the ramps are super easy to use and are safe to work under even without backup. (Although I'd still probably use some...

I used to have some chunks of railroad ties that I put under the frame of cars. Probably that is what I should do now that I think about it more. I'll have more time making the ramps as I will pulling the ******. For my oil changes, I only need to jack it up a couple inches to get under it...

Like these bad boys:

Yeah, I see your point. Just never felt totally safe under a car with small jack stands. Maybe I'll go find some nice old heavy duty ones on Craigslist.

Yeah, that's not such a good design. The ramp portion definitely needs to be removable. They would make it impossible to get under the vehicle.

I'm going to make some car ramps for my SUV from wood. I'd love to make them out of steel but just don't have access to the equipment. I'm not worried about the strength of the ramps, I'll make the portion that the vehicle rests on out of solid 2x12's and just stack them up and hold together...

File the little nub off the key and you can pull it out.

Mostly new but some old. Got the 299pc set from SearsOutlet.com for $159. Got a few empty spots waiting for a few that were missing. And I have a little room for "expansion"! Socket trays are homebrew. HF metal clip rails worked the best for me. The length was perfect for my Kobalt toolbox. 1/4"...

Regarding Sears policy on missing sockets. My bargain set from the SearsOutlet was short 20 sockets. I called this morning and asked about it. They asked me for a list of the missing socket PN's, my name and address. That was it. They didn't even ask for a sales order number. They will ship out...

Sometimes it's the person also. Some people have sweaty palms and salt or some other chemical that excretes from their skin that corrodes things really badly. I worked with a guy years ago that couldn't touch anything. We had to have him wear gloves all day in the machine shop because anything...

I expect I will use 5% of them 95% of the time. 5% will never be used. (Thinking about banishing the 32's sizes to my bottom drawer.) But which ones do you leave out? Certainly I would never buy most of those sockets individually at retail. But I had quite a number of missing ones, and this set...

Just bought the 299 piece set from a Searsoutlet for $159 and had it shipped to me. It's missing one entire set and 4 other sockets. For a total 20 missing. Said nothing about missing parts, so I'll call and see if I can't get them replaced. Even if not, it was still a bargain. If you keep...

I bought one. It's almost as accurate as my $200 Mitutoyo. I had to take it apart though and clean all the grinding grit out of it. It's incredibly crude on the inside. Looks like they ground it on a bench grinder, seriously. But it does work and is accurate. For $9.99 you can't really go wrong...