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Happy 4th!

Count me in. I used SK on my very first job back in 1977- too bad they made me give them back when I left.

Those will not last well at all. Stick with Wiha, Apex, Snap-on or one of the other "brand name" bits, but even then, don't expect them to last. I was involved with the development and support of Torx at Camcar and we were never able to provide a bit design that would last with impact use...

I just scored a 1977 Unisaw over the weekend off of C'list for $200! Missing the miter gage and 460 volt 3 phase, but I can rewire the motor to 240 and runit off a VFD using my regular 220V . I have it all torn down right now and I can now see why these are quest machines; the quality and...

We calibrate our counting scales every 2 months.

Be careful with the heat and quenching if you are planning to reuse the fasteners. The tempering temperature for most commonly used commercial bolt materials is around 900 degrees, so if you go higher than that you will be softening (weakening) the bolt. On the other hand- if you heat a part up...

I have the 718 and with a good Freud blade it works great for glue line cross cuts. Most of my work is 90s and you can dial it in to give you perfect ones. Once in a while I need to do coupounds (legs on stools and things like that) and it is also excellent for that. I would get another one...

I'll second the bent blade. It is much more likely than a bent shaft.

In general, Fastenal is going to sell the lowest possible cost (to them) items that they can find. They are having a terrible time right now getting the profit margins that Wall Street is looking for from them (3 CEOs in the last 2 years), so they are on a huge cost reduction drive. We will be...

Adam has some good info there. There are a lot of different grades of Ti and in the consumer market I see a lot of junk that is labeled as Ti that is not made from the normal high strength alloys and heat treated properly. I was head of engineering at a fastener plant the made Ti screws for...

I would tend to agree with EZ. Really beat up and rusty Unisaws that need a restore will go for $500 around here. A clean, unused one (if it is rust free) will be worth something in the $800 - $1,200 range. Since it's 20 years old, you may have to replace the bearings in a few years if the...

Yeah, I've had guys from Ford call me and try to tell me what sizes are in the Torx Standards. Uhh...sorry dude but I'm holding the master copy of the book here on my desk and there isn't a T37 in the book. There have been a ton of aftermarket bits made over the years in odd sizes to fit...

The gold Sanp-on bits are made to the high end of the tolerance range to provide a slightly larger amount of metal in the bit and a tighter fit, bothof which will tend to make them perform better with tight screws. But there is always a trade-off: they will have a real hard time going into a...

I see that, but it isn't supported by any of the factory standards. Some one must have decided to make up a size for one reason or another. I know that there have not been any header punches made in that size. If you google images for ISO 10664 specification it has the sizes and dimensions...

PST has the Torx Plus design right. When were developed it we made it so you can fit a Torx driver into the same sized Torx Plus recess, but not vice versa. The goal was to get more drive bit strength for high torque applications (the Germans always want Torque to yield). I think that what...

The Bondhus are OK- they tend to have a slightly lower hardness than the ones that I mentioned and because of that they will twist and yield at a lower torque. The good thing is that they generally won't shatter like a really hard bit, but that lower yield point means that you have a bunch of...

I was the guy who maintained the global standards for Torx for a number of years so I pretty much know a little bit about the whole thing. There is no such thing as a T35 Torx. Never was, never will be. T27 was developed because there was too big a jump between the T25 and T30 and the recesses...

Too bad the vast majority of washers are useless for keeping the joint together. I have spent 30 years designing unneeded washers out of joints. Explaining fastener theory can get pretty funny sometimes to an audience of newbies- I once got a ****** harassment complaint from a girl that...

Why not just use fire code drywall? That is what it is made for; instead of using a wall and floor product overhead.

Dump a good layer of any water washable stripper onto those spots, let them sit, scrub vigorously, rinse with hose and scrub brush and you'll be ready to go. The floor patch could be a problem with stain- I would mix up some patch and put it onto some plywood and let it set up and then see what...