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Follow up,, I used the "Belt Guard After Cooler for 10HP" https://compressor-source.com/products/belt-guard-aftercooler-for-10-horse-power-motor-1-inch-female-npt-fittings-black I welded up brackets to hold the after cooler,, no separate fan added,, it catches a little air from the pump pully...

I replaced the Check valve and that appears to have stopped the leak

Yeah, thinking I should just replace that as it is original. I may let it pump up to 100 psi, turn it off, undo the copper line from the pump to check calve, then put a balloon over the treads?

Once the compressor is "Off",, the tank air should not be in connection with the cylinders. And the cylinders and piping to the tank (checkvalve) are bled off by the switch.

I completed moving my IR T30 vert 60 gal 5HP compressor to the shed. I plumbed in an after cooler between the cylinder out put and the tank (Check valve) I capped off the output bung and fired it up and let it build to 80 psi, then cut it off. In 24 hours it has leaked down to 45 psi. There...

Yeah,,, kinda of looking that way. Between building the compressor shed, aftercooler, sub panel, and now a cart,,, I'll never get back to the jeep projects !

Thanks for all the reply's guys,, Turning sideways,, makes it to wide. trying to keep in as narrow as a standard cart,, an inch or 2 wider than my Harbart.

Space is at a premium in my shop,, Currently I have a Hobart 210 Mig (.35 solid wire), and a Liccoln 140 (.25 solid wire). Each on it's own cart, each with it's own 75/25 bottle. I am looking to consolidate them onto one cart, with one bottle, would like at least one drawer (or 2) for storage...

AN/JIC are 37deg, SAE are 45deg,, my compressor has 5/8" O.D. copper tube from the pump to the tank,, I am re-plumbing to add an aftercooler. (IR T-30 compressor) Is there any way to identify a 37deg vs a 45 deg flare fitting ?

Ya know,, that is brilliant! Problem solved

Another question with my setting up the compressor in the shed,, I am adding an after cooler, Of course I am removing the water between the after cooler and the tank. The commercial water separators are designed the "swirl" the air in the bowl to remove the water,,, is that needed or effective...

You are correct,, lets me know at a glance if the timer had run down, without walking across the shop.

The transformer is in the shed,,

The relay I am using has a coil rated at 10-24vac, This relay is not the mag starter contactor. It is a relay I am putting in series with the air pressure switch that operates the mag starter relay coil. That is a 120v circuit

The other concern (for me) is they are 3/8" ID,, my compressor pump to tank line is 1/2" ID.

My copper line from the Pump to the tank is 1/2" ID copper, so that is "5/8 tube". While the series cooler I linked has 1/2" connections, it is 1/2 "Tube" or 3/8" ID

I am trying to wrap up the moving compressor to the shed,, and will be adding an aftercooler between the pump and tank. It is an IR T-30 5hp 60gal vert unit. I am looking at 2 styles of after coolers: Parallel tube (styled like a car radiator)...

The "switch" in the garage is a 2hr wind up timer switch. If the Lamp in series does not work,, I will have to go without a lamp or move the Xformer to the garage side. I am **** about a clean, built in look. all my switches and outlets, etc are "built in, no surface mount.

Thanks Dave, this helps me narrow it down.

You are correct, the 18/2 was buried, drywall opened, ran in the shop, mounted switch box,, done deal when I decided I wanted a "light" Sounds like either a LED or even 6-9v bulb will work in series with the right resistor.