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Youre talking about the 2nd pic? it has a black button connector.

its a crimper, and looks like its missing the dies for the jaws. i could be wrong but that particular one looks like its for cat5 terminations.

i just use my linemans pliers to trim a few coils of the spring off. works fine.

strut or you could use a plate like the caddy sbt18.

heh, thats what i get for not looking very closely

do you have a main disconnect anywhere? if you add another breaker youll be over the limit and need a main breaker or disconnect.

still needs a main disco. around here if its a separate building it needs a main. i know what 225.31 says but if its a detached garage they want a disco in the panel or at least somewhere in the same buillding

that panel will work fine. code requires anything with more than 6 separate breakers to have a main disconnect so you need a panel with a main in it.

being that the slave receptacle is meant to be plugged into a vehicle or gen set, your impact is a dc motor. depending on how the motors armature and field windings are wired, it may or may not run if you feed it ac from a transformer. also, you will have to source a transformer that can handle...

I have done the dry mix method and it works. I have also done fence posts with no concrete. The directions that say to use 6 bags are usually talking about having the concrete footing level with the soil surface. As far as the posts, i feel that the screw on brackets are easier to work with but...

I have always bought plug mold in 10ft lengths and cut it to size. I dont even know if it comes pre cut honestly. The smaller the plug mold the more tedious it is to wire, depending on what youre using it for. I have used both the cheap plastic wiremold from big box stores and the real wiremold...

while i personally wouldnt use an offset ****** into the panel like pictured, you can do it like that. also if you look closely at the top of the ****** there is a set screw that holds the conduit in place. the ****** is threaded and held to the panel by a lock nut. ideally you would want to...

that compressor will likely have trouble running an impact. according to the spec sheet it only flows 4.8cfm at 90 psi. the average impact at load needs 15-20 cfm. but for around the house stuff running nail guns it will be fine.

i have the makita sds hammer drill. i hate it. when i had to work with it all day doing overhead anchors in a ceiling it makes you tired fast. plus it kills one battery faster than the other so you could do lets say 50 anchors and have to switch one pack out. then maybe 20 holes later youd have...

I believe that a lot of the proposals are "encouraged" by manufacturers, but i do know that some of them are suggestions that are sent in my ordinary electricians. You can fill out a form and send it to the NFPA and they will review it and let you know of their decision. The NFPA will actually...

i have the 36 volt drill. the performance is the same as a corded sds drill however its heavy as hell. we do alot of overhead work so it ***** after a while. plus if youre doing 3/8'' drop in anchors you only get about 30 anchors before both batteries need to be charged. as far as the two...

i have the complete set of the hollow core nut drivers and the fast back utility knife. i have no complaints about any of them, and the nut drivers are the best ones ive ever had imo.

looks good to me :shocking:

You are correct that it is a three phase panel, however from what i can see in the picture you have an ungrounded conductor landed on each terminal so you should have voltage if its a three phase feed. As far as the ground on the neutral is concerned you should not have a ground on that lug...

When im on a commercial job that doesnt have inspectors i will take my belt and put it on the last or smallest hole the belt has, then just sit it on top of the ladder so it doesnt slide down. just makes the ladder top heavy when i close it and move it around.