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Here's the old spring in the release stem and here it is next to the new one. Also, for anyone following this thread for guidance - when it comes to removing the seal inside the tank nut and the cup from the ram, see the last part of post #1 and the begining of post #2 of Highball's Overseas...

Thank you Hiball! I was going to look over the parts diagram later (I'm doing it now) to see if I missed anything, but I bet I would have still missed if you hadn't pointed it out. I'll take a new picture with the spring in the correct location when I get back there next week.

I've been limited in garage time, but got a chance to clean everything. After using a solvent and air, a bit of Dexron was put in and on all the metal. I figured the detergents would help clean residue while it sat and the oil would protect from rust. Looking where the pump screws into the...

Jeff, That looks very similar to my Heyer. Is there a data plate on the back? For those wondering what the extra cable is with the 'dipstick'. It is to prevent from overcharging. I don't know if it was simply a cutoff based on temperature or cut back on the voltage or current proportionaly...

Probably one is a timer and the other is the charging current. See Heyer pictured in post 15. The ammeter looks very similar to the one on mine, but the name plate is totally different. Is there a plate on the back with model number and such?

Re: Lincoln 93642 C rebuild & questions - inside Pulled the ram (used a philips screwdriver through the cotter pin hole for a handle) and it looked pretty good. However, as Hiball suspected, plenty of dirt residue at the bottom of the reservior and in the brass filter screen.

Tuco4 - Awsome! BurgerKong - I've got the photos you asked for - I'll send direct due to size. Update on my rebuild- Upon closer inspection, the *** on the overload spring cup was a ball. Prying it off, it doesn't roll, so needs some cleaning and then inspection to see if its distorted...

Is this test station based on ram force? Or the real question is it a test rig a hydraulics shop might have, regardless of whether they have been an authorized Lincoln/Walker/H-W dealer? And for everyone's peace of mind, there's nothing I'm lifting that comes close to listed capacity of this...

Fair enough question. Sometimes the jack would miss a stroke and it only got worse. I started taking it apart last year, but then had to stop (I got laid up). So, when I got back to it, I just dumped the oil, refilled, and it worked OK then wouldn't pump. It needs to be reliable so thats...

It comes down to time vs money vs risk. For price, the hand impact set is worth it over the time and risk hands down. I don't get much garage time so need to maximize it. Thanks all. Will report back after I make some progress.

Correct. I was going to try the ole strike the screwdriver while turning trick first. I have some full steel shanked screw drivers so breaking the handle is not an issue. If you think this is a waste of time or risky, I won't bother. The valve plug appears to be alumuninum so easy to ******...

Well its true if you posted first I wouldn't have bothered. But your second is appreciated. My guess was based on my general knowledge of fastener failures (thanks in part to the Carrol Smith's books). Yours is based on actual experience with these contraptions - and that's worth more in my book.

Wow. My guess is that the nuts were not tight enough because the lifting action should be pivoting on the shaft. Guess it all depends on what resources you have access too at home and at work. Can it be reamed or milled larger and that way keep the center reference correct? If so, then...

Thank you all. I appreciate the tips on installing the cups! My guess is the overload ball is still in there. Slight chance its in the oil catch basin - the only place its been facing down and yes I tapped it - but obviously not enough. Brendan - yes I can. If you are OK with digital...

FWIW, the differences I see with the Walker version is the tank nut is a 1 3/4 hex* and the overload protection did not have a ball at the bottom.** Rather the spring cup's tip is shaped - somewhat like the tip of the release valve. I'll get a photo later this week. edit: This is what I...

I've read the Walker 93462 thread and the FAQ. I should have reread them before I headed to the garage this morning, as in the time since reading, I forgot some important details. In fact, I was thinking of adding onto the Walker thread but its gone in so many different directions it seemed...

I've looked at Grass Pave2 a couple of times, but haven't had a chance to personally try it or see it in action. First time was the wrong type of solution for what we needed, the other time the project went a different direction. See if any dealers are in your area if you like what you see on...

MTW - That is very interesting. On a budget, within the constraints of the existing building, I think the OP's best approach is a split strategy. That is, do whatever is possible to reduce the daytime heating - add shading, venting, etc. That helps the building and the air inside from getting...

Grease is made up of mostly oil + thickner + little bit of additives. The thickner carries the oil. Grading is based on how soft or thick the grease is. NLGI 000 is thin and 6 is super thick. Besides the Grade, one can consider things like whether it has EP (Extreme Pressure) additives, a...

Whenever I've needed information on repairs or parts on older equipment and 'garage' tools, I rummage through posts here. A few weeks ago I finally got around to joining so I can ask questions and contribute a bit to knowledge pool. Off the top of my head that equipment includes a Lincoln...