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Still cools as well as before. I actually have a temperature sensor in there, and I have an energy monitor on it, and both cooling and energy use are the same now as they were years ago (before the leak started).

Nope, it's a bottom freezer.

JennAir built in fridge. I think about 8 years old. Small amount of water leaks from a panel at the top of the fridge, down the rear interior wall of the fridge, and creates a pool on the bottom shelf of the fridge that has to be mopped up with paper towel once or twice per day. See attached...

11/30 10:40 am PT update: I've checked a lot more stuff and didn't find anything unusual. A few hours ago I turned the furnace back on. Started with just the blower motor. Ran for 5 minutes or so -- no smell at all. Literally as soon as the burners fired up, we got blasted by burnt plastic...

Update: Thanks so much for all the replies. I've got a lot to check out today and will restart my furnace around 8 am PT to see if the smell repeats. The smell dissipated completely last night after about an hour and has not come back. I have NOT turned the furnace back on yet and instead...

Good idea, but furnace has already been used dozens if not hundreds of cycles this year.

Good idea, but dishwasher was not on. (I checked just now anyways and didn't see anything unusual).

Yeah, possibly that. Or some component like the blower motor started to burn up. But I really would have thought that when I pulled off the door to the furnace cabinet, I would have gotten a strong smell of the burning plastic that permeated the house... but I didn't.

Yes. I checked the plastic pipes and didn't see or smell anything unusual.

Just had a weird experience where a burning plastic smell permeated the whole house pretty quickly, probably in about 30 seconds. I immediately shut the furnace down, opened it up, and looked inside. I didn't see anything or smell anything other than the lingering smell of natural gas. I...

For what it's worth, my power outages are so infrequent that I may not use either an interlock or a MST, and I may instead just connect things like my refrigerator and 120v window-unit A/C directly to the generator. But if I do end up with something more sophisticated like an interlock kit or a...

Thanks for all the replies! My responses below. Sounds like general consensus is that most folks would be comfortable running it on the deck. Good thought. It's a relatively smooth-running, quiet generator, but I could definitely put some sort of a heat proof or fire resistant pad under it...

My house is similar to the one in the attached picture, where I have a deck above an attached garage. The flooring of the deck is Trex (composite), but there is of course wood framing (and other stuff) beneath the Trex. No flammable furniture or any other flammable objects on the deck. My...

Nice, thanks. It's on the back of the house so yeah, same structure as the main panel that is feeding it.

Also, this subpanel will serve the same building as the main panel. Ground wire from the main panel is enough, in that case, right? No separate ground rods required?

The existing 50-amp disconnect is being fed by a 50-amp breaker in my main panel. Current plan is a 50-amp 6-slot Square D Homline: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-Homeline-100-Amp-6-Space-12-Circuit-Outdoor-Main-Lug-Load-Center-HOM612L100RBCP-HOM612L100RBCP/100143240 Thanks for the info!

My house has a 4-conductor, 50-amp disconnect box that used to be wired up to a hottub. The hottub is now gone. Given that it's 4-conductors, it should be a super easy job to switch out the existing disconnect box for a 50-amp 120/240 subpanel, right? Literally just remove the existing...

Threewood, I'm thinking about installing an EZPro 9k system in a bedroom that needs supplemental heat and a/c. Have you continued to be relatively happy with your EZPro?

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