Search results

It's a 24mm nut that just threads onto the end of the cable. The access is poor inside the lift carriage on the cable that runs from the top of each column. My plan is to cut a socket off and weld it to a length of pipe. The cable threads are too long for a regular deep well socket.

I purchased a gently used lift to help get me off the concrete. I was looking through the instructions and noticed a special wrench called out for adjusting the equalizer cables. Does anyone have a picture of the extended wrench? I assume I can fab something up if required. Thank you!

Yes, I was shocked at the price for the threaded insert piece 😳. I ended up buying a grade 9 1"-8 Allen nut (already machined round) from McMaster and turned it in a lathe to fit the head with the existing grub screw to retain it. I cut a 3/4" hex on the end of the threaded rod I bought and can...

Yes, this is something I have considered and not sure how it'll turn out. I just feel stuck with a **** situation. I might have to lay some wood up there to get an idea of where it meets and take measurements. I feel like sloping paint at best case scenario will be 8-10 years until I'm dealing...

These were the screws I'm planning to use for sure.

This is what I'm leaning towards. The valleys are already going across the 2x3 metal framing.

The back half is closed in and poorly insulated so I have to use it for my 25x25 shop at the moment. 🙃 If I had the option it'd get removed and a real metal building would be erected. Not enough dollars to go around at the moment.

It's been awhile but got a new rod made, tore down the cylinder and sandblasted/painted it. Still haven't done anything to the frame but have enjoyed using it for many years. I've yet to have a need to max it out. Around 8,000 psi is as high as it's had to go on a set of toyota sequoia hubs.

I bought a house with this preexisting building. I honestly didn't expect much but after a few months I've noticed that it'll never be completely dry inside until to do something with the roof. There is a condensation issue but the main problem is the way the panels run lengthwise the valleys...

I was very happy when I saw it and doubly so when I found out that the head can be moved anywhere on the beam. I made the pusher nose out of a truck kingpin so it can be used until I source all the parts for the quick adjust. It's amazing to me that parts are still readily available for it!

Haha!

I bought this press for $75 and replaced the jack hose and gauge. I cleaned up the hand pump with fresh reservoir o-rings and fluid. It works great for now until I can get the quick adjust threaded rod for it. Does anyone know what year this might be? The current model #1845 is open plus has a...

I measured the bore at 3" and the stroke at 4". The crank ball bearings look ok from what I can see through the block window and the rod has no perceptible vertical play and maybe .005-.010 of side to side on the journal. There is some sludge in the bottom but I'd guess that is normal especially...

Do you think a motor that small will run this pump? If so it would be awesome because a true 5hp motor of any quality is $400+. It has a double "B" belt flywheel that is 18" across. I pulled the head yesterday and there is crosshatch left in the bore. This is a super simple pump and I really...

Thank you kindly sir, I have always wanted a belt drive compressor and this made my heart skip a beat. I'm thinking a real 5hp motor will run it nicely. I'm always low on project funds so it'll be good to do some further teardown to see if it's actually worth putting the effort in. I'm thinking...

To the top!

Found this on the side of the road. Looks super solid but I'm not quite sure what I have here. It is smooth and has strong suction and discharge. The flywheel is 18" across the face. There is a rebuild kit that comes up under the model #. Should I get it running or go for something more modern...