Search results

I’ll look for the broken parts this weekend and post pictures. My wife trams to move things and not tell anyone, so we’ll see…..

The picture is of one that is not broken so everyone knows what it is supposed to look like. The axle itself is what broke and I was just seeing if anyone in here has any experience with this type of antique roller repair or if someone could point me to a new style that would possibly be a good...

Have any good suggestions for what to replace it with? The door is heavy, so I would like something that will hold up and not sure if anything the big box stores have would do that.

They are neat. I can buy them on fleabay for about $50-$100/ea, but I’m just trying to see if there might be other options.

Yes, I accidentally posted this in another forum and reposted here since it’s more relevant here.

I am trying to figure out whether to replace me barn door rollers with new units or try to find an antique replacement. One of the axles broke on one of my barn doors, so the wheel is no longer attached to the base. I have no experience with repairing, but have a few questions: 1) Is it...

I have a good electrician I can ask. He’s the one I had do my upgrade and I also play pickleball with him! I’ll see what he says on Sunday when I play with him. The framing for the dishwasher won’t be done for a week or so, which will provide me good access if I need to change anything in there...

I appreciate the answers and here is my response: I ended up doing a direct wire to the dishwasher. I originally thought it was in its own circuit, but then I followed the wire in the basement and found it wired into a “junction box”, which was a single electrical box with no cover, which has...

TRWham, yes, it only protects the dishwasher. There are no other outlets attached to it other than the one behind the dishwasher.

I appreciate all of the answers! Yes, the GFCI is on the side of the counter, not above the countertop. The receptacle for the dishwasher is connected to the GFCI, so the GFCI is between the panel and the receptacle that the dishwasher plugs into. The dishwasher is in its own circuit.

I’ve searched and not been able to find the answer to my particular situation. I have an island with a dishwasher in it. There is a regular outlet behind the dishwasher, in the dishwasher cavity, that is connected to a GFCI on the exterior of the island. Is this okay? I’ve read that the outlet...

Thank you for the replies and advice! This is exactly what I’m looking for! Clint, thanks for the pictures as they’re very helpful! The barn is a neat structure, but it’s definitely seen better days. I’d rather keep it and turn it into a garage/workshop area as I’m a car person and would love...

Low1, thanks for the input! We’re going to have an engineer out to look at the barn and see if it is even salvageable. It’s leaning some (taking a level to figure out how much), so it MAY be a tear down, but if we can economically salvage it, I’d much rather go that route. As for the floor...

Just a quick update: We are going to have an engineer, who is familiar with the barn already, look at it again as it’s been 10 years since his last report. Building was stabilized at that time, but 10 years can change a lot of things. IF the building is salvageable, I would like to utilize...

That’s one thing I’ve though about doing. Another one is to install steel I-beams for the main support and then fill in with joists every 12” OC to take the load. Then would come the expense of flooring on top to deal with the weight as well. Most likely I’ll consult an engineer to see what my...

It is a really cool barn! I would definitely add structure as I’d rather do overkill than not have enough and find out the hard way. I do plan on getting an engineer in there when we move in June, but just want a basic game plan ahead of that as winter is not good construction time, especially...

I am purchasing a home in MA that comes with a massive old barn (around 1820’s). The main floor is even with the driveway, but it’s open underneath the floor, about 6 feet from the underside of the floor to the ground below. The floor is in poor condition, but the joists seem to be in pretty...

The other caveat is I’ll have to block the header regardless due to it being 4x6’s as I’m not going to notch out 3-1/2” for a traditional header. At this point I’m leaning towards attaching the header to the face all of the way across and using it as a “break” in the siding. It will be painted...

Here’s my dilemma: I can either countersink the header and girts to make everything flush or face install the header and have it stick out 1-1/2”. Trim will cover the end of the board, but it will be that way across the entire front. I’m using Hardiplank shiplap siding over 1/4” OSB sheathing...

I guess the next question would concern the header: should I counter sink it so it’s flush with the building or attach it on top and block it? The example photo below (not my building) shows the blocking method I’m talking about, essentially a stringer? Countersinking would get the door closer...