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Could be I've misunderstood? I gather the OP has taken a noisy compressor, apparently with the inlet as a major source of noise, and stuck a load of gubbins between the "probably noisy" inlet filter and the rest of the compressor. Has it been tried without the inlet filter?

I'm not sure whether it's riding too high, as I'm not used to using link belts, though when I've seen them, they've looked a lot deeper than V- or wedge-belts, so presumable the outside will sit proud of the pulley grooves. I'm wondering why you are using a link belt? Link belts are usually...

There's a lot of variables involved in getting the thread started, as covered above. However, the thread pitch is 0.7mm, so once it's cutting, the thread will advance 0.7mm per turn. 10mm of thread would need 14.3 turns.

I'd use an anaerobic pipe sealant. Pressure switches usually need to be "clocked" and the anaerobic sealant makes it easy.

FIT THE ****** TANG. Your chances of getting the arbor out without it it are four-fifths of bog all and you really don't want to go there. I once gave away a Taiwanese drill press because it had a tangless 2MT arbor with keyless chuck stuck firmly in the quill. I'd put it in without thinking...

Whiteley and Ernest Wright, both British companies, are still making very nice traditional scissors. Both list kitcen scissors.

Unplug everything, switch your multimeter to resistance and check you've got continuity through the windings (both main and start) and also through the thermal overload. You don't want to be swapping out a motor, even a cheapie, if it's just a faulty thermal overload or anything else that's...

46" radius gives 92" diameter. Multiply by Pi to get 289" circumference. Divide by the number of teeth (24) to get 12" of movement per click, as near as dammit.

An impact wrench is likely to make it a bit easier: It's usually difficult to hold the shaft against steady torque. If you can get 2 nuts on the RH-threaded end, you might be able to hold the shaft that way. In the past, I've used a G-clamp and a couple of bits of leather on the wheel to jam...

I have the Makita DMP180, which I think is the original Makita 18V (I'm in the UK. Makita seem to have a different model numbering system for tools sold in the US than for those sold in the rest of the world, even though the tools are the same). Bought maybe a couple of years ago when they were...

The Tsunoda KBN cutters mentioned in post #26 are very good indeed. I have the 6" KBN150 primarily for cutting cable ties, but they also get used exactly as described by the OP, for trimming off the excess when crimping bootlace ferrules on multistrand cables (typically in the range 12 to 24...

Is it 3-phase and how old is it? If you are looking to run a VFD with an older motor, there might be problems with the winding insulation. My limited experience has been that motors I'd estimate date from the 1950s WILL fail within seconds. Motors from the 1980s have been fine for me. In...

As above, you need a 6200 2RS and I'd certainly go for a premium brand from a reputable supplier (SKF, ***, etc). I am in the UK and I'm seeing a price of 4.29 GBP plus tax and shipping (equivalent to maybe 12 bucks total to my door) for an SKF 6200 2 RSH from a supplier I know and trust.

For mdf and wood, pretty much any bimetal blade will get the job done. Don't run too fast and stop regularly to clear the dust from the teeth. The dust can build up enough to stop them cutting and start to scorch. If you smell burning, stop immediately and check/clear the teeth. Looking to...

Context is everything and the OP hasn't given us that. We are not even told what the machine is, whether it stands alone, or whether it is part of a larger machine or production line. There could be a number of reasons for the "odd" values. My best guess would be that it's been done that way...

I have had maybe 3 over the last 20-odd years. All have used reflective tape and have worked well with it. At work, the main hassle with using them is shutting down the machine, removing the guarding and sticking on the tape before restarting and taking a measurement. Our equipment is mostly...

Not wishing to be dense, but I'm not familiar with the Golf. Can you grind off the tap that's giving trouble, fight the wheel on without the M8 alignment stud in another orientation, use a transfer punch to mark for a fresh stud, take the wheel off, drill, tap and fit a fresh M8? Edit...

There are unlikely to be any problems with a fairly modern motor. Half the world runs on 50 Hz and the other half runs on 60 Hz. Mechanically, just about every motor is designed to run to 3600 RPM, as that's the worst-case speed (a 2-pole motor on 60 Hz). The windings installed are what sets...

There are many different Makita cordless hammer drills available, ranging from home-user grade to pretty good. I'm not sure which model you've killed or whether all of them are available in the USA. That said, hammer drills are all woefully poor at drilling masonry compared to SDS drills. I've...

Best with a Carbide-toothed one-piece holesaw, as they seem to drill rounder and less-oversized holes than the bimetal ones that fit a threaded arbor. If you drill through from one side, then open up the holes from both sides for hassle-free alignment, you'll want to check the pilot drill...