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Finished the 100 I got. It was not fun. Some of the metal knobs and handles were painted as opposed to polished like on the 150 and they didn't clean up as well as the 150 I did. And I don't really like the feed stop but none the less it works now. <img src="http://i.imgur.com/x0In71X.jpg"...

Well I am currently finishing refurbishing a late model 150 and an early model 100. So let me tell you the differences I ran into. These may not be accurate for every version of the 150 or 100 though since I think small changes were made. 1. The quill on the 150 has a snap ring on the bottom of...

On thing I did, since the metal tub was a bit bigger than the 3/8 rod is i placed three rubber o-rings on each threaded rod. It keeps the tube super solid.

Got my handles made. <img src="http://i.imgur.com/lzR1tkF.jpg" style="max-width: 675px; max-height : 1000px; " border="0" alt=""> <img src="http://i.imgur.com/h6PmoXY.jpg" style="max-width: 675px; max-height : 1000px; " border="0" alt="">

How did you recess the tube into the nut and knob? Also do you think a brass wire wheel on a benchtop grinder would be ok to clean the chuck with? Or would it be too abrasive?

These are a great idea. Thanks. I will likely do this with a black handle end.

Ok keep me posted.

Anyone have any feed handles for the Older version 100 for sale?

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press So the second motor which wasn't working is fixed. I replaced the starting capacitor and it now works like a charm. While the motor looks identicle it does not have a plate with the model or the specs on it, and there doesn't seem to be a spot...

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press The slot on the motor has very slight scratching. No real damage though.

No key, just the set screw that was screwed into that slot. This is the motor. http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/4796.pdf 113.12140

My motor was a little different. It still use the set screw but it has a slot removed out of it instead of the flat spot on the shaft. the screw def moved a tiny bit but no real damage. I used a little bit of pb blaster and a wheel puller and it came of pretty easily.

So since there are no parts that I need from the doner I bought for 5 dollars. I guess I may as well try to refurbish that one as well. So here goes some of the things about it. It is 103.23131 which I believe is a model 100 Condition: Very not good. Motor: The motor has no plaque on it listing...

Well you were right. The belt does not work when changing sizes. I would have to switch to the 44" belt when I drop to the bottom steps. The top step is 3.98" so the top speed would be about 4000rpm. And the worse part is the bottom two steps actually don't get as small as the normal pulley so...

Im going to take measurements shortly on the two motor pulleys I have. But I wonder if Iam better off keeping them. Most people are trying to slow these still presses down and if these are smaller diameter on the motor it should do just that. I don't plan on leaving the speed set that high. I...

Yed there is a bearing at the top and bottom of it so I used that setup to get it back in place so i didnt damage the bearings or the spindle.

I did buy a second machine for parts I should check that pully to see if. It is the correct size and maybe swap it over. How hard is it to change the motor pully? Edit update the second one I bought had the same exact pully on the motor so that wont work. What size is the correct one? I will...

Ok thanks for the heads up. I went throught and removed the S.

Is it not allowed or something? Because it works fine when I open the page.

I made a thread. The pics are there. https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=7874491#post7874491 Also I went be the V-Belt replacement list on here and I got the Duralast 17440 which was listed as 44.2" . It is way to big. If I were to replace the belt that was on there I would...