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Im bringing this thread up for the new generation and the fact I am logged into this site. Pro, your a " 'n deeeeeeeeek " ! The man gave you the answer, and the price was a little run on. Instead of saying thank for the advice and move on, this is your ungrateful response? Rant > In old...

No, its the itty bitty thin ones that are 5.75 wide. I would have to cut one side of the angle iron to 2.75, if I was to do both sides front/back inside/out.

I thought about that too, but, seeing as how the house (ceiling joist and threshold) is resting nicely where it is at, the least amount of work would be to just cut into the mortar joint and slide in the angle iron. If I was to replace with a whole new lintel, I would have to worry about...

Good question I have already gone over myself. The answer "I" came up with is that I want to keep at least something tie'ing, whats left of the 2 walls together. I plan to have the angle iron stretch into solid wall area on each side and have 2-8 holes drilled through the face of the angle...

Okay, so, I am not that far off base. Main worry was what the inspector would say when he sees I cut into the angle iron. Wasnt sure if he was gonna give me a hard time for "altering" virgin steel, lol.

I will keep that in mind but i was referring to the front face and underside/actual holding/cradling of the block Correct, I always do :rolleyes: Since the block is only 5.75 thick, my max would be 2.75ish bottom front side piece and 2.75ish (2.875 to be exact) back side, cradling the block...

So, I have a structure that uses those thin 7.5x5 3/4x16 cinder bricks. The structure is only 8 feet tall, 22x30ft, single lever with a 7/12 pitch roof. I want to move my 32" door 5 feet to the left and start a 60" opening for a 36" door and 2 side lights. Of course i will need a lentil for...

Yes, but I worry that when i prop the roof, then pull the old windows, the cinder brick/block that are there will already have old mortar clogging the holes. I could chip out the top layer of old mortar and fill the top row of block at least, but, may be blocked at the second row and not let...

-Hi Zeke, thanks. Well, I am thinking if I have to make/order and install lintels for the new door and windows, maybe its easier to go wood. I was thinking of king studs next to the door/satellite frame Yes, exactly, and, thats what I am afraid of. Once I pull it all out, I could be...

I have a 28ft (front) x 23/4 ft (side) house that is built from the ground up to the roof with 4"x8" cinder brick. God, why couldn't it be regular cinder brick but thats another rant! Anywhoo, the windows need to be replaced ( double on the left and single on the right, soon to be both...

Didnt realize so many more responses popped up. Who said I was in too much of a hurry to listen to advice? I asked what one would do if they were expecting a low yield well. If I plan for that on first install and I get a high producing well, its win, win, right? I bet your the kind of guy...

I need water right away. I dont have time to test and play around as I am living on the property now. I want to buy one time, install one time and be done. I dont care about complexity and or money. I just want this to be a one time and done project. I am expecting the worst and hoping for...

I have a 50ft well drilled in the 70s with a 17ft head. I assume they figured that was enough at the time, but, I dont trust it to supply large amount of water (just bought the property, havnt tested it, needs a new pump).. I want to put a system on the pump that detects load so when /if the...

Renegade1LI - Yea, I was looking into that and they only cough up the asphalt aggregate terminology. I have yet to find a list they go by. Basic internet says 9" to 13" base, might get a wild hair and go with that. Looks like I am doing the best that can be done, other than digging a little...

Thats about what I was thinking and where I was at for the trucks. The second issue is the clay I dig out is going to leave a pool (so to speak). I can fill it in with big rock, but, if left alone, there would be a lot of water in there, with no where to drain. Then when it freezes, My...

I will be doing all the labor myself, so, that cuts down in a LOT of $$'s. Its gonna be a 4 car driveway, and, maybe angled on one side to accommodate a roadway/pathway past it and have 3 cars on it. Mmmmm, that red truck looks big and expensive, lol. Not so much the tandem truck(s) will...

Yes, thats the reason for using it, but, a 5 mil thick piece of fabric vs tons of weight at small pointy edges......... Makes me cautious to ask how well it hold up over time. DEF an extra piece of insurance, for sure and would do an excellent job of of keeping fines separated from the mud. I...

I thought of getting a few core samples for grins and giggles, but, trying to stay in the budget, which led me here, this board still in the budget, lol. There will probably not be more than 5-10 times most that trucks will be driving over it, but, the driveway has to be able to survive those 5...

Its going to be a very tricky driveway (least for me) and have heavy equipment running over it through time. Not only in the middle of it but along the edges, across it etc. I want to spend $4k (not including prep) only 1 time. I want it to be mint from the time it has been laid to the time I...

I always wondered about fabric. Its part of the projects but I wonder how much it can do. I know it helps, but tons of sharp material on top of fabric would shurly shred it to bits and eventually bite through?