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Think I would do the piers with a floor framed over the pad with one exception...I would do Techno-posts. No digging, no pouring a footer, no messing with rebar and cement, etc. No time spent with leveling the cement piers. And really, for the price of the tube, cement, rebar, and some kind...

I just did all Perma-Colums....no wood in the ground. 5" pad. And as Firebirdparts mentioned I braced it well.

Not sure what kind of a mounting system you have for the Dish, but I repurposed an old DirecTV mount when I installed Starlink.

You're talking about disassembling and moving the structure, correct? How about a timber frame? It's wood, which you like. No nails or screws. 100% portable in 10 years.

I added 4x6 braces to all of the corners of my pole barn. As the others have mentioned, sheathing also works to brace a building. I'll add this too...I am pretty sure adding knee braces to trusses is NOT recommended unless the trusses were designed to handle that load. It's been discussed...

Roughly a 25x35 with a 12' wall and attic trusses. Plenty of height for my Rotary lift and my Silverado. I would be hard pressed to fit 3 cars in there with the lift....but with your 30x40 I think more doable. I also have no basement so went with attic trusses which gives me a ton of extra...

Seriously. Responding to an 11 year old thread like it was yesterday?

I did something similar for the top to my K5. I have 4 different attachment points to my trusses and lagged the angle iron directly. Using ropes, pulleys, carabiners, some angle brackets that I bent, and a $100 HF electric hoist I rigged up the system. It's a one person job...on and off. My...

I repurposed a DirecTV mount to install my Starlink. We have few options for internet in the Berkshires where I live. Previously the best I could do was about 12 download. Went with Starlink 2 years ago and now get around 100 to 150 download. A very heavy thunderstorm or a heavy snow squall...

With the heating/cooling unit you're approaching a quarter of a million dollars for a wood shop? A quarter of a million dollars. For that price...for a wood shop...you better be Norm Abrams. Insane.

I've used both flail and rotary mowers. One issue with flail mowers is grass length. If the grass or weedy brush gets too long the flail mower has a hard time dealing with it. The grass will get wound up and bound up around the shaft and it can be a pain to untangle. Nice sharp blades can...

I was thinking the same thing. I know he's not the norm, but tend to imagining aging like that 101 year old D-Day veteran who still lives alone independently and just returned to Normandy for the 81st anniversary to tour the battlefields. With that said...put up the lift! Instead of...

It's a term with exactly what the OP described...a monolithic pad with just the edges thickened. Sorry. Probably a regional term for that style of cement pad here in the Northeast.

I just got an estimate on a 24x30 Alaskan slab for a timber frame pavilion I am building with my high school timber frame class...$15K in western, MA. Site work not included.

People either love POR15 or hate it. It gets a bad wrap because there is a sequence of preparatory steps that need to be taken before application or the results will not be great. It also has to be top coated. I use POR15 in areas that are easy to do all the prep work...inside floor of a K5...

It would be a major project to opening up the Cupola. I think I am going to try a hood and a powered vent fan in the cupola to get rid of the steam quicker. I hear you though about boiling. I try to keep it at the hobby level so it never becomes a chore. In late Feb.and early March ski...

I process anywhere between 250 and 450 gallons of sap a year depending on the weather and snow conditions. The trails to my sugarbush run through a very wet spruce swamp. To collect sap I need to have all of my trails snow covered or they become a muddy quagmire. I am 100% on...

Thanks manwithtools. Appreciate the kind words and your input. Yes, for sure. Dealing with the steam may be all I need. Thanks. Yes, exactly...which is why I neither insulated or finished mine when I built it. But I have also been in other sugar house where it's not raining down inside...

Thanks Beerhippie. Yes, you see my problem in trying to prevent any moisture from getting between the metal and the pine boards. Thanks for your feedback. I think you have a good solution.

LOL...that's funny. = "sugar shack" I don't know how people live in FL. The heat and humidity would destroy me.