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As part of installing three mini split AC units in my house I also had to install a sub panel outside, trench conduit from my power pole to the house, trench conduit for two of the units, and run conduit under the crawl space of the house for the third. Recently I had the inspector out to have a...

This has been nagging at the back of my brain so I figured I'd ask. The only interior work I did was install the inside part of the mini split air conditioners. The permit for that is categorized as "mechanical" and is separate from the electrical permit which is for the sub panel and...

Yeah I guess that pretty much sums it up. Thanks for the input everybody.

I'm probably gonna have to do that. It just irritates the heck outta me because I literally just did the final bits last night, 100% done and dusted. But now I have to do more on it and spend more money, that means I wasted money which I hate even more than doing a job twice. This project has...

I thought about that too, but it's rather noticeable since it adds a lot of thickness to the wire. I also have three LBs that the wires go through, and I don't know how I'd get it in there.

If it fails then I'll have to fix it and pay $50 for a reinspection. And if the inspector is a jerk they could refuse to continue the inspection once they see the white wire, then when I put in a properly colored wire they could come back and find something else to fail, and I get to pay another...

Yeah, it's been working great for months. Electrons are color blind apparently, but from what I read online, some inspectors would let it slide while others would demand that all the wiring be ripped out and redone. I probably shouldn't have bothered to pull permits for this, it's cost so much...

I used Southwire Triwire 12AWG THHN on three 220V AC units. Triwire has three wires, white, black and green, lightly twisted together, but not sleeved. I had read that it's permissible to use a white wire for a hot wire in this case as long as the white wire is remarked to red (or black...

That's very good to know, thanks. Some areas are more strict than others about looking for new things. Down by the beach where there's greater potential for storm damage they look for literally any new wood outside, or workers on your property. If you're more inland they still have code...

I've been letting my OCD run wild on this, paying attention to even small details in hopes that the inspector will see that the work was done with care and not just slapped together, so hopefully they won't be too nitpicky. However just the other day I learned that, according to the NEC, you're...

I recently installed mini splits in my home and workshop, I even went through the hassle of getting permits for them. But its taken much longer to finish everything than I expected and I've been using two of them for several months because this is south Florida and its been hot. I'm almost ready...

TLDR: Looking for ideas to better insulate a metal pan roof under the extreme heat of the South Florida sun, including spray foam and/or rigid foam board. I have a metal pan roof over an extra room added onto my house for a utility/shop room. This particular portion of roof has the top caps...

I could use a single 25 foot line set, but those are at least twice as expensive as a 10 footer, and they're out of stock from the manufacturer. I'd have to get a 25 footer from some other company, which would mean more researching of which parts/brands can be trusted in the sea of Chinesium...

I'm not sure what you're referring to by a "dog leg" in the line. 26 feet is plenty to put the outside unit where I want/need it to go, I'm only concerned about it being 1 foot over the 25 foot limit for the precharge. I would put the outside unit closer, but it would be blowing hot air...

I'm finally installing my 3rd mini split. The first two went fine and have been working great. With the third one I'm going to need to put the outside unit farther away than expected. The unit came with a 16ft line set and is precharged for up to a 25ft line set. However, the shortest extension...

Yeah I'm positive that the line sets were made in China, along with the rest of the mini split components. Pioneer responded today and said they provide double flares to improve the connection at the sealing points, but that if a re-flare is needed, a single flare is adequate as long as it...

I emailed Pioneer about it, but since it's the weekend I haven't heard anything back yet. What you describe is exactly what I had planned to do. Except I was going to get a knockoff of the eccentric flare tool since a Yellow Jacket is too pricey to use just once.

Your electrical setup is very similar to mine that I'm currently working on. I installed a 100A sub panel on the back of my house to feed three Pioneer mini-splits. I ran three, 4awg copper THHN wires (hot, hot, neutral) and one 8awg copper THHN wire (ground) from the main panel to the sub panel...

They're Pioneers, bought directly from Pioneer in Miami. These double flares look fine, I think. Funny thing is, the Pioneer Diamante 18k unit has regular single flares on it's included line set, while the smaller Pioneer Inverter+ units came with the double flare line sets. Here are some pics...

I'm finally getting around to where I can actually install one of these mini-splits, unpacked the line set today and found that the ends are double flared from the factory. I had been planning to re-flare them myself because of all the reports of sub-par factory flares, but now I'm wondering if...