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Mostly done. It seems to work alright. Pump up time to 175PSI takes about 6.5 minutes. Got the pressure switch set to 150psi and pilot valve set to unload at 110psi and load at 90psi. Going to install mufflers on drainage and discharge ports to save my ears.

Small update. Got almost everything fastened together; last bit is bending the 3/4" pipes to get pump aftercooler and tank routed. Electrical all buttoned up: Welded on some flat bar to drill mount holes through Aftercooler and filter mounted onto belt guard

Welded up some brackets to attach a power inlet to side of belt guard:

No worries. What you already provided was more than enough. Figured testing at 150% of MAWP would net a better safety margin. Won't be welding anything else to the tank after that.

Did hydrostatic test tonight. Got pressure up to 300 psi and did joint inspection. Didn't find any leaks. Let it sit another 30 minutes and noticed a slight pressure drop. Did another inspection but found no wet spots. Below is picture of gauge at start and end of the 30 minute interval: Start...

Thank you, this is super helpful. One question, would you recommend testing at 150% of target operating pressure (175 PSI) or the tank's MAWP (200 PSI)?

I'd need a much larger garage :P

Thanks for the input. From what I have gathered looks like I need to fill the tank up with water then pressurize it up to 150% of operating pressure (think my pressure washer can manage) then let it sit for 30 minutes.

I'll be pressure testing it. Tank walls are 1/4" thick and brackets are 1/8". Used .030 flux core with 250 WFS @ 18.9 Volts. I'd be surprised if structural integrity is compromised by the welds; especially with the 1/4" steel acting as a giant heatsink.

Got time to get some welding done. Welded on some brackets to mount the mag starter and re-attached back side of the belt guard (previous owner cut it off for reasons?). Got a little bit of welding left for intercooler brackets and electrical outlet box. Also JB welded in a replacement for the...

I wouldn't be surprised if they were cast with floor sweepings. Will see how much mileage I get out of the pump.

De-rustified the belt guard and test fitted valves: Still waiting on mag starter

Got a small update. Motor and pump are attached. Getting belt tensioned was a PITA, 19" span needed .3" of give w/ about 9lbs of force. The single screw adjustment plate is a POS. Recommend getting double screw adjustment plate or you'll need to figure out a way to apply tension against the...

Safety blue!

Would not be surprised if they are all the same. That EC10 you linked looks like an exact match.. Bought replacement intercoolers off SC46 model and they were a perfect fit.

Little update! Got the pump reassembled. Not without trouble. Upon torqueing the aftercooler and intercooler bolts to spec ~14 ft-lbs; just about every single thread in heads disintegrated into a nice fine powder :). Picked up a helicoil kit from ace hardware and replaced all the threads in...

Correct, the 4 LP Intake and 4 LP/HP exhaust springs were identical on disassembly of those valves. The 4 intake and 4 exhaust DO have different part numbers due to slightly different assemblies. Only the 2 HP Intake valves had unique springs from the rest. The packaging I got in the TUK came...

What's interesting is the manual has the above mentioned CI10SA reference, however, the parts diagram has a reference to SC46... Attached PDF

TUK I picked up was for Coleman Powermate Sanborn SC46. I think NAPA references pump as C2. I found a PDF manual for the pump but it's referenced as CI10SA, which ends up leading me to here: https://www.compressorpros.com/cast-iron-air-compressor-pump-ca2-7-5-10-hp/

Pitting can definitely still be felt. I think I'd need a different tool to remove material more aggressively... I honed the **** out of it. Talking to the mfg tech he seemed unphased by my description of the cylinder's poor condition. His opinion was it should work "good enough" and if I was...