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That's kind of what I was thinking with cutting back the existing wood siding and building out a mounting board that would be flashed on top and bottom and **** up to the siding on the sides like a window trim. I ended up just mounting uni-strut with some "custom" 2X4 shims to get a flat plane...

Enphase calls for the bracket to be pretty flat so I figured this was the best way to do it. I spun out for about an hour and half trying to figure it out before I just committed. Again, it's ugly but after getting both batteries on the bracket I put all my weight (an additional 225+lbs.) and I...

I figured this would open up some discussion around that as well. It is definitely new tech regarding chemistry. Here's some UL testing on fires and fire spreading they've done if you care to take a look. Are you as concerned with pumping explosive flammable gas throughout your house? Google...

Unfortunately not, I have to use the Enphase mounting bracket as these babies are heavy! Thanks for the suggestion, though! I think I've got my method for now. I'll keep you guys updated.

It's about 3/4". I think I'll just cut some shims out of a pressure treated 2X4 and paint them. I did a quick test cut and even with the circ saw they seem to work fine. 2 on each side of each lag bolt and one in the middle should do the trick. It's too late at this point, I need to get these...

Correct they are Lithium Iron Phosphate (LFP) chemistry. Mike, any suggestions on making a flat plane with the unistrut across the siding? I have some typical construction shims but wondering if there's a better way.

Yeah, I guess unistrut might be the easiest and just accept some removal in the future. I tend to overthink things and have a terrible time deciding on an option. Unistrut seems to be the least "disastrous" for now so I'll go that route.

The main idea behind making the backer board was to avoid having to remove the batteries when I eventually replace the siding. At that point I'd be adding sheathing, a WRB and new siding like hardie plank or LP smart plank. My backer board and batteries would be off the wall stud 1.5" and would...

Very small coastal city with a building department that has too much time on it's hands. Code sometimes doesn't make sense. If you want to put this 10kwh battery in your garage you have to have a temp sensor and alarm kit. If you want to park your Tesla in your garage with a 70kwh battery in it...

Yeah I originally wanted the pedestal kit but that price was ridiculous. They are actually two separate batteries at about 150 lbs each. Mounting bracket goes up, hoist one battery up, then hoist the second up. You can but that involves pouring an engineered pad if you want to pass inspection...

I haven't opened up any walls yet but the inside should not have any insulation if that's what you mean. I need to hit the studs with the battery mounting bracket, though. The batteries themselves are 330 lbs. each. What do you think about water deflection? Is the Z-flashing on top and sill...

The batteries are for capturing PV energy for use at night. I live in PG&E land and they've removed any net metering so self consumption is the name of the game. Our local municipalities offer a rebate and with the 30% tax credit expiring this year the batteries penciled out so I pulled the...

I am mounting (2) Enphase 10C Batteries to this exterior wall. The siding is 3/4" clap board with no bevel. It's mounted directly to the studs with no sheathing or WRB or insulation for that matter. Eventually, I'll need to replace the siding on this entire wall at which point I'll add...

I don't have a table saw so making the "super shim" would be tough for me. Also with the concrete being so rough in that area it's hard to get wood to sit flat, it just wants to rock. I figured with the small lip/curb I could solve the slope and rough surface all in one go.

I need to bring one side up to 1" and then it will slope to 1/4" on the other side. I haven't done much concrete at all so I'm thinking of using this stuff: https://www.homedepot.com/p/SAKRETE-40-lb-Fast-Set-Concrete-Patcher-60200640/100350270 They say it can go up to 2" and has 5,000 PSI after...

Alright! Well, I've been plugging along at this project this year. I'll get some progress photos up this week but I'm working on installing the new entry door and could use some ideas on how to prep the slab. It's all jagged, slopes down from one side to the other about 7/8". I was looking at...

Update on the old garage! I made it all the way around and each corner is within 1/8" of 56" from level line to the bottom of the sill plate now! It was quite a job going down the final wall. I think I would come up with a better jacking system next time but it ended up working alright. I still...

I need to measure across from top plate to top plate to get an idea. With the sill plate completely gone it's hard to tell. Thanks for the link!

Zoomed in a little. Looks like they jammed in some 1X material due to the rafter separating from the ridge board at some time. I'm assuming this happened because the sill plate rot I'm repairing. Sill plate rots, load bottom of the stud rots, load pushes down on the wall and then the wall bows...

Ah! That makes more sense now. There are two rafters that look like they've had an "extension" spliced in. Is this something I should be concerned with?