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You sure you want to drywall? Gets banged up pretty easily. After much searching through this forum I've settled on LP Smartside for my new interior walls.

I agree it's a cool look! But for practical reasons the entire interior will be framed (and thus everything you see on the interior walls will be hidden) and then finished with LP Smartside, which I've seen recommended on this forum as a more durable alternative to drywall for garage/workshop...

OP here. Here's an updated photo showing the revised door lintel. I'm sure the experts here will point out other things that are wrong now :) Fire away - it's all helpful!

The lintels are fixed. Both now extend more than 6" over on each side.

Yes. This is a city townhouse. 16 foot wide lot. Space is extremely tight.

You're right. I'll bring it up with them. As I've done with other more minor issues that they were happy to fix along the way. Thanks for the encouragement! I can't fathom what they might do about this at this point though... Any ideas?

Thanks for all the insight. My builder has replaced the 4' door lintel shown previously with a 6' lintel. The pig on the right is due to tying into an old wall that has much wider mortar joints than we wanted on this back wall. There was going to need to be an expansion joint somewhere...

Yes, USA. Maryland. The bricks on the right side outside will be hidden by a new fence running perpendicular to that wall. I would have preferred that control joint was on the other side of that corner, but no big deal since it will be hidden.

Correct on all points. See photo immediately above.

OP here. My original photo above is the interior of the wall that will be framed and dry walled, so won't be seen. Exterior photo below.

Correct: the opposite side is brick. But the interior half of this wall (the cinder block you see) will be notched to fit the joists that will run perpendicular to this wall. So the load will be born entirely by the half of the wall facing the photo. Essentially, the roof joists will be...

You are correct. It's about 2" on either side. If that's enough, I'm happy.

Maryland, USA. This is taken from the interior of what will be a single story garage. I'm looking at the steel above the door (left) and window (right). Window looks fine. The steel over the door is barely wide enough to span the door opening. I worry if my builder doesn't put in a wider...

Sounds like a sweet setup. My intake will be passive, so I'll just need to leave it open at least during the summer.

Cool. Just bought it. We'll see how it does in conjunction with the blower fan. I'm confident.

That's what I was thinking. Maybe something like this at the bottom of the opposite wall (which just so happens to be in perpetual shade): https://www.supplyhouse.com/Panasonic-FV-GKF32S1-Passive-Inlet-Vent

removed

I just got one of these for my 1.5 car garage in DC (hot, humid summers with some snow in winter): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B092872T5Q/?tag=atomicindus08-20 I was just going to set it on, say, 90 degrees, and let it run itself when the inside of the garage reaches that temperature...

Did you end up using the Smartside as interior panels? I'm considering the same so would love to know/see how it turned out!

If there's a more recent thread on this topic please point me to it... What are folks using for interior walls in unconditioned garages these days? I love the idea of 3/4" ply, but prices are upwards of $100 a sheet. Even finished drywall is cheaper, though less practical. Would love some...