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Well, all done. Just wanted to share a couple pics since everyone was kind enough to help. Per Watco's rec, I lightly sanded the finish off the tempered hardboard and applied two coats of Danish oil. Also including a pic of the plywood glue-up since it was such a miserable task 😂 I had three...

Thanks again for everyone's help. I "think" I may just go with Danish oil (in part because I don't want to wait 30 days for a poly to fully cure…and I also don’t want a hard finish that will likely chip), and was just curious: Those of you who've applied a penetrating oil to tempered...

Thanks so much for everyone's help. I do like the color/sheen of the photos @Skiff Builder posted...I don't believe turpentine is available in California where I am, but I imagine there are a number of wipe-on poly recipes that might produce similar results. Going to some local lumberyards...

Hi, I’m topping my workbench with two sheets of 3/4" plywood, then some tempered hardboard on top. Two quick questions: 1. Does the thickness of the tempered hardboard matter? While it’s typically available in 1/8” and 3/16” thick, a local place also sells 1/4”...didn't know if thicker was...

Thanks @DGersic. Since I was originally thinking to glue the boards down, I assumed I'd be peeling off the thin padding/underlayment on the bottom of the laminate. But if it's floating...I'm wondering if I should in fact keep the underlayment? My fear is if it's only floating and basically wood...

Thanks for everyone's help. Got sidetracked by another project, but one quick follow-up: I got some Pergo samples, and when installed as floors, the planks just click together and float. But for a workbench...would I be better off glueing or nailing them down? That would admittedly make it more...

Hi...I'm buying a new Ridgid shop vac, which comes with a 2.5" hose. I need to add a 10' extension hose, but it also needs to taper down to attach to my sanders. They have two options: A 1.25" hose, or a 1-7/8" hose. My question is: Would the 1.25" hose put too much stress on the motor and/or...

Thanks for the thoughts so far. I'm aware of Masonite and other options, but there are some specific reasons that laminate flooring would be better for me...so that's why I wanted to ask about it specifically. It sounds like it would be fine with wood getting moved around on it...maybe the...

Hi...I have a very large workbench — 16' x 42" — and was curious if laminate flooring would be durable enough? I'd have a good 1.5" of plywood under it, but I simply have no experience with laminate flooring and didn't know how it would hold up. I don't do any welding and no chemicals, mostly...

Thanks so much for everyone's thoughts so far. I think the Unistrut and T-tracks might be good choices as they look sturdy and also allow you to lock things in place. I'll look further into things, but this is all very helpful and a great start...thanks again.

Hi, looking for an odd solution for the “workbench” thingy in the pic below: The miter saw is bolted down and used often. But since I don't use my bench grinder or router table very often, I'm looking for a way to easily move them back when not in use. (The can’t be permanently attached along...

Thanks for the thoughts so far. Yes, I'd thought about IKEA butcher block, but for 44" deep I'd need the island size…which is really only feasible in the laminate option (which I'm guessing would get destroyed). @Shiftless: Easier to show than explain 😂 … It's basically dirt hillside under...

Hi…looking for some ideas for materials to cover the top of this "workbench" thingy? It's kind of a weird shelf – 44" deep x 15' long – and I'd just like something a little more aesthetically pleasing than the old ugly plywood. I was thinking maybe some sort of garage floor tiles or roll, maybe...

@nadogail: Yeah...I definitely don't want to mess with the grinder itself (especially since this piece secures the guard). My hope was it could simply be unscrewed and removed temporarily when using the dust shroud. More likely is I'll try to modify the dust shroud itself if it turns out it's...

@neophyte: Thanks. Screw #23 in the first diagram you sent screws into the piece I'm inquiring about. This just attaches a little spring tension rocker arm (#22) that locks/unlocks the orientation of the blade guard. But in the second pic you sent, if you zoom in, it does in fact look like this...

Sorry...weird question: I have a DWE4120 angle grinder, and would like to put a non-Dewalt dust shroud on it. It "almost" fits perfectly, but is bumping into the female threaded thingy for the guard. My question is: Is it possible to remove the top/round piece highlighted in the photo below? It...

Very true. I guess in my mind I figured I'd wait until I got a new garage door opener, since that will likely come with a couple remotes and I'll know what system I'm working with. That said, that Genie opener is probably 40 years old and still seemingly working fine. Probably outlast me (!;)).

Thanks for everyone's help. The hope was to not have to buy an entirely new receiver (as I already have 2 remotes and a wireless keypad working just fine with this), but it seems like the age and Intellicode functionality are usually the issue. For example, @firbirdparts, I'd already asked...

Hi...my prehistoric, non-smart Genie opener employs what I "believe" is their old/discontinued GIRU-1 Intellicode unit to communicate with remotes and keypads (which it does just fine, see left in pic below). My question is: Is there by any chance a wireless wall button that might work with...

Thanks for everyone's help. And yes...I'd say the track is a smidge off center in relation to the door. Honestly, the opener is an old Genie unit from the 1980s with a Gumby-like mascot on it...looks like Heathkit stuff ;) And @kbs2244, yeah...I know...I'm a bit OCD. I'm not always in the wrong...