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OK, cool. I will test all these. Problem is I need to learn these terms (street winding ) and then get to it. I'm currently preparing 2 Kawasaki motors, and I need to concentrate there, so I will reply when I can focus fully on this electric motor. I'm not ignoring you guys, just that's...

I see. Thanks so much for help guys. I will try to figure it out. Maybe time has come to learn electric motors since I build petro motors lol. There is no water in the motor. Everything was disassembled and cleaned to brand new by me. I'm afraid I put something together wrong maybe.

OK, so it was the motor all along. I went and bought clamp on amp meter for $20 and it turns out when wired for 220 he was drawing like 26 amps on a wire coming out of the wall going into the motor with no switch. This is the first time I ran him longer and after few seconds it started...

So I tested it all. I connected it using the TAP terminal. It worked. I connected the engine without switch and it works. I connected the engine for 220V and using the switch and it works in OFF position but trips the breaker in ON position. P.S. I did not see the last 2 posts above until...

I see. I will connect it tomorrow like that and see what happens.

Looks like it was connected inside the motor for 120 before restoration. GREEN and RED with 2 were together going to the Switch

I have the pictures before rebuild. Maybe I can figure out by colors of the wires how it was connected, now that I understand it, and know it's colors.

No way of me knowing if the motor was originally on 220V. But the switch says 220V.

Motor never ran in my hands before rebuild. Motor runs now without the switch. Motor spins with the switch without the ground connected, but the switch flips back to OFF after fraction of a second. micromind told me to remove ground so I did and tested it without the ground. It will spin the...

And please explain me how is "power" returned to the power station without Neutral wire? Does it go back on one of the hot wires?

So I just ran it. Now it throws off the switch only. And the electricity in the panel is ok, because ground is not connected. So nothing changed. It does energize the motor for a second. Do you want me to rewire the whole thing for 220 and test?

I am lost. So for 220V I don't need a 220V plug and outlet in the wall? Just spice it inside the engine and that's it? Wow,it makes sense, and shows how stupid I am.

Got it. Going to the garage to test this out now. When I bought the switch 3 wires were connected and I never tested it, so I assumed all have to be connected. If I wanted to make this a 220 V motor, where is the third wire suppose to go?

Pictures.

3 Wire switch. Load, Line, and Middle seems like Ground, but there was no ground back then.

Now, on the switch it says 220V. I wired the motor for 120. I wonder if that's the problem. I do know how to wire the engine for 220, but I have no idea where to send the extra wire from the wall.

OK, my engine does work directly without going through the switch. What socks about this, is that the switch can't be opened and fix. So all I can think of is getting a new switch. Engine super quite and nice with new SKF bearings and cleaned off.

So the motor trips the breaker. When I put the switch on it trips it. I will try without the switch later on at night.

OK, I did what micromind suggested and it all worked out. Turns out Bert_ was right. That RED looking wire is Yellow. I connected it for 120 and I attached the remaining wires like Bert_ said: White from power goes to Motor (Black Wire, 1, Yellow Wire), Black from Power goes to the Switch on...