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That's EXACTLY what that tool is designed for. Lol the comments some people make. Smh

Buy what you like, BUT Eastwood Welders are no rebadged welders. They are designed and built, just for Eastwood.

After 500 hours, my oil came out very clean considering the age. The magnet had barely anything attached to it. It was running before hand . . not all of them implode.

They're not all bad. I picked up a running L111 this past weekend. Horrible looking, deck needs some serious wok, but it ran . . so the transaxle wasn't toast. It had over 500 hours on it, I bought it from the original owner. In redoing the tractor, the plan was to drain the transaxle and fill...

I like this solution best. Wood in concrete will work in some areas, so soils, but you need drainage. Obviously in your situation, it doesn't work. Bring the concrete footer above grade with a bracket to attach the wood post, keeping of teh concrete is the best solution.

Why are you insisting on hard wiring it? More flexibility if you leave it a plug.

You have the hot line in going to the last 3 way via the white wire. This pic shows it a different way. But after looking at it, it accomplishes the same thing.

I had someone show me this as well. Is there just two ways to get the same thing accomplished?

Thanks guys, makes sense.

Thanks but, that pic isn't what I have. I have both the feed in and the line out to light at the same box. That pic has one at one box and the other at the other box.

If he wants things to be "best" case . . then balancing the loads is the thing to do.

The overall load on your circuit is not going to change by going 220V.

I have a 4 way circuit that is wired like my picture. I couldn't find an example that had both the wire to the light and the in coming power in the same box. I think I have it figured out, based on looking at a 3 way setup. Can anyone here complete my pic or link to one like mine? Thanks

I didn't find anything on Tractor Supply's or Atwood's website.

Well taken from my Industrial Engineering degree, having taught Engineering and related topics . . . I felt my opinion mattered. I wasn't writing to you anyway . . right?

I suppose if you can only think in a small, small box, then you don't realize that people search these threads and use them for reference even years and years later. Giving facts, at any point, is worth it.

I can supply you with facts of my case. I had trusses set at 8' high. THey are 4' OC, pole barn. I needed to notch 3 trusses. I notched the two ends less, but the center needed to be notched almost 4 '. What I did was modify the trusses as needed. Then I sandwiched the three trusses with 1/2"...

I made nice carriage doors for the main entrance to my shop. I built them from engineered 2x4s ( the way to do it ). No warpage. I then have them locked with 2 slide bolts into the concrete floor and then a 2 x 4 across the doors from the inside, through handles made for this.

Looks like it is Myers.

I have never seen anything like that before. That would be cool. I'll search for Meyers.