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Backing up a bit - I worked at a machining shop for 7 yrs as a operator of presses - was just starting to learn from the tool/die guy on the mill and lathe making punch dies and parts - never got into taking everything apart to repair what you are using to work with - to that end, thanks again...

Still searching for something made in the USA - kinda rough..

Checked out Diamond - China, think I'll go with this one made in Washington...

Gotcha - used a center punch on the inside of the chuck and 2 taps and the arbor came out, so a stub taper Started looking on the net and you're right, LOTS ! I'm not a cheapskate but definitely not going to go for the cheap ones I've seen. Most of the work here on our Farm would be mostly light...

Okay...looking at several taper calculations sites and based on the above dimensions it looks like I have a Morse #2 taper on the arbor - so now what do I do, get the chuck with the arbor or just the chuck ?

Here are the measurements taken from 2 spots you wanted me to report back on for the chuck arbor: Arbor top- .602 Arbor bottom- .695 Length from scribe lines - .895 Overall length ( from bottom to start of tang radius - 2.355 Tang length - .430 So, am I replacing the arbor and chuck or just...

Seems like I should measure near the tang at the top and near the chuck at the bottom to get a true reading for the taper. The old one fit in fine with a good shove after cleaning and stayed in place while running to measure the runout. Is it possible to get a keyless chuck for the models you...

Great success ! Made a drift from an old mower blade and with the Kryoil and a few hits the chuck finally came out ! Cleaned the arbor and the inside of the quill, put it back in to check for runout...still way off by 10-15 thousands. Query is now, how do I know what chuck to buy ( no stamped...

Thanks Nadogail - been looking around in my scrap metal pile in the barn...thought I had some plate somewhere but still searching - lol - as you mentioned early on, penetrant and patience !

Ahhh...looked on the internet and my chuck does have the tang - if I shine a light through the slot, you can see the light from the other side and the tang is visible - looks like they tried something before because the tang top is kind of beat to hell but if the oil works, there is still enough...

Sorry for my ignorance but I don't have any idea what a drive tang is or what it looks like, picture of one maybe ? Soaking with Kryoil as we speak. Thanks !

The chuck was beat up pretty bad but I did put a gauge on the spindle and it ran true within a couple of thousands, obviously the chuck was way out. Tried the wood trick and tried a drift but no go - hate to take it out of the machine body and I don't think I have a long enough punch to go from...

Hiya All - Found this site and hoping to get some helpful advice. Not sure where to post my question about a old drill press chuck that just refuses to come out. Its not a Jacob's and I've tried a drift, maybe wedges next ? Think whoever had it before jammed it in or reinstalled without cleaning...