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I gotta admit. My driveway is 300' long, poured in 2000 and has a couple minor cracks and gouges but has never been sealed. Of course, I don't put salt on it either. Salt is the enemy of concrete.

To have a consistent look, I'd suggest trying to match it. I'd try a Sherwin Williams or Benjamin Moore dealer if you have one near you. Box stores (Home Depot, Lowe's, etc.) won't have a clue. It looks to be solvent based.

Looks like an acrylic or arcylic-urethane with stain pigment incorporated into it. Some of them are good with intercoat adhesion. You'll probably need to do some testing in an inconspicuous area...It looks film forming rather than penetrating.

My Laundry room...3 years old now (my how time passes...

Yes they've made a lot of advances since the original 3 part formula. I stopped using Ballistix due to all the bad raps they got in the epoxy flooring forums on social media. I don't do a lot of garage floors, mostly commercial projects so it's just sometimes that I can use that type product...

I put it down in my laundry room a little over a year ago. It has held up well, however my laundry room does not get severe traffic. Just our feet and laundry baskets. The 3 part mixing instructions were insane.

Methinks FJ4Fun's suggestion of a stain with a topcoat (suggest urethane) is a good option.

With epoxy floors, cheap is usually NOT the way to go. $4000 is a touch high, but not unrealistic. It all depends on how much work has to be done on the damaged area and the quality of materials used. I'd be around 3.5K if the repair work was minimal. 2 day process.

It's been a while now. How did this work out?

Presuming contractor B has a good reputation, methinks you're ok with the same product -after all didn't the first guys show you a couple projects that did not stink? While Rhino Linings is not my coating of choice, Rhino is certainly a reputable company. I don't like the approach contractor A...

200 grit sanding on a coating may be just fine for applying a refresher coat -provided it's well bonded. 200 grit on bare concrete will not do the job, you need much much more aggresive abrasion.

Looks like Bert put you on the right path. Nicely done!

Asking which 100% solids epoxy is best is akin to asking which car is best. Everyone claims there's is the best. In actuality, there are a limited number of actual manufacturers of epoxy. The vast majority sold is private labeled product from one of these manufacturers. There are a lot of...

My experience with Stonhard is hit and miss. Sometimes you get a good crew & a great job, sometimes it looks like dog poo when they're done. It all depends on the crew you get, their products are good.

Most manufacturers suggest a "Neutral PH cleaner" ie.. not caustic. Having a brain fart trying to think of one off the top of my head

Depends a bit on the "use" of the floor. The first 2 options will be more stain resistant but can be scratched more easily than the third option. Coval will stink strongly during application, but dissipates. Polyaspartic will also have an odor that will dissipate.

There are several manufacturers with "zero VOC" Epoxy. Most "100% solids" epoxy will be either zero or very low VOC. 100% solids means that the epoxy does not contain solvents which are the source of VOC's. I'm speaking in generalities here. Some things to consider...(I've assumed concrete...

I sincerely hope you have not fully paid for this. Polyaspartic is generally a good top coat for flaked garage floors. There are thousands of successful projects out there. Humidity and temperature of both the floor surface and the ambient air do affect the curing process. Most Polyaspartics...

Pressure washing will not be enough prep for this. You'll need to at least etch it for proper bond.

Ballistix is one brand of a family of coatings that claim "spray and walk away". I have used Ballistix as well as a competitor called Coval. I don't think the Ballistix I used was the "SC" as it required a laborous mixing procedure that was in fact bordering rediculous in complexity...