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I wish that was an option but couldn’t get electrician here in time and honestly can’t afford it for now. I wanted to replace this panel and may in the future. I think the method I proposed allows that flexibility without tearing up the wall.

This is a 200amp breaker feeding to the main panel. It was added when garage was added to the house. Meter is on the back side of the wall in photo. SEC into bottom of panel (will need protected) and SER to the ceiling and to the house to main panel.

Drywalling garage and working on finishing around the electrical panel (200a disconnect) and curious if anyone sees flaws in my plan or a better route. Panel unscrewed from wall will fit 1/2” foam board behind. Stud bay packed with insulation, Finish bottom 4’ of this stud bay with plywood...

The requirement is class 2 however I’m not using Kraft faced insulation which is the typical class 2 option

Good Morning, After endless reading on vapor barriers/retarders Im extremely torn between Poly and a smart vapor barrier system. Located in CNY (Zone 5b) Garage is attached and will be kept 40ish, rising up when work is to be done. Some cooling in the summer but infrequent. Can anyone weigh on...

I’m most concerned with frost and mold in the wall, not vapor passing through concrete. Air sealing is overall primary concern. I assumed the block would be pretty decent but would still prime and paint it with something with medium to low perm rating. Just want to make sure I get the sill...

Good info thanks. Concrete block is 36” high so the framed wall doesn’t terminate right at the floor. Slightly different application than normal so figured I would ask.

Evening y’all, Located in CNY and insulating garage and curious where to terminate vapor barrier on my walls. Easiest would be bottom of wall but it feels best to come to bottom edge of sill plate and calk gap as no sill sealer was used in original construction. Thoughts? Garage is somewhat...