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"Myth. Tell that to the attic insulation. Lots of insulation out there that doesn't fill the cavity. Heck, my home was built with 1.5" thick R-5 faced batts in 2x4 walls. The R-value is not dependent on encapsulation." building science actually and fiberglass batts are apples to oranges compared...

"How about going 2X6 and using R13 insulation in the walls? (Like a 2X4 wall) If you ever want to upgrade, all you have to do is add more insulation" fiberglass has to touch on all six sides to work properly... otherwise you just have a filter

the cost savings comes in labor. if your building your self it will cost a little more than standard construction. good product though

"This conduit will actually house the feed wire leaving the main panel, then out of the building and under ground. Then to the new subpanel." sorry thought the feed was entering the garage and being piped to the new panel.

each structure has the same requirements as main service so a main diconnect would be required where feeder eneters the building.... my understanding is the wireways do not have to listed just approved....however it must have a hinged lid the entire length so may not look the best in a garage.

i would check for loose connections

if wiring is installed properly there is no chance to become electrified. it would be a waste of time and money to bolt a lug through at every overlap. pole barns are in no way a giant raceway for wiring your pipe and/or sheathing is your raceway. not trying to get in a ******* match but its not...

speaking as an electrician it would be a horrible idea. their is no reason for the siding to ever become electrified therefore no reason to bond to electrical service. as far as for lighting strikes your screwed whether bonded or not...that much juice is going to do as it pleases.

the plan looks good...as far as the ground goes it depends. if you fall under 2008nec you need both if not just rods at the building