Search results

I’d admire everybody who is doing their own alignments. After replacing front end parts, I crudely try and line them up good enough to make it to a shop. I have been thinking about though. The prices they are getting for alignments is crazy……

I’m on 2 platforms currently - 20v DeWalt and m12 Milwaukee. I’ve been happy with Dewalt - I transitioned from 18v to 20v several years ago. But, I’m really impressed with the Milwaukee line - if I was making that change today, I would sure take a hard look at Milwaukee’s M18 line.

It feels like I have been on a lifelong journey to find the ultimate brake bleeder. Years ago I followed Sam Memmolo and Dave Bowman’s Vacula recommendation. That thing was expensive and never worked right for me. I’m using the minty-vac when I’m alone and pedal pumping when I have a helper.

i went thru the same process 24 months ago. I went with a MP210 for MIG & TIG. But it felt like the TIG functionality was an afterthought on the 210 and I really wanted AC/DC capability so I also picked up a Squarewave 200. The prices have gone way up on both of those since I bought mine. It’s...

Does yours have 4 capacitors? (2 start & 2 run) that’s what mine has or had. My caps are all bad with illegible labels.

that’s what I’m planning to do with mine. I was surprised to find so little information on-line. I guess I’ve gotten spoiled!

I recently salvaged a champion pump and a 5 hp Ajax motor. I have not had any luck finding any detailed documentation. The number labels are missing/illegible on some of the leads. I may be time for me to find an electric motor shop.

If you have the space, I’d say go for it. But, that being said, I have a RT Unisaw with a Biesemeyer fence that I love....

I have essentially the exact same saw and set up since 2004. I love it - wouldn't change a thing. I'm a Forrest blade guy too. In my 12" sliding miter saw and the Unisaw. no doubt they are more expensive, but I think generally you get what you pay for. Enjoy making sawdust!!!

UTP = Unshielded Twisted Pair

I did the very same thing - I went the small breaker panel route.

Something else to keep in mind when your looking at matching the generator to the load you want to feed is the output de-rating due to the fuel switch from gasoline to LP or natural gas. Around 10% for LP and 20% for natural gas.

I'd recommend a Winco generator. I have had the 9000 Watt model for several years - it has worked flawlessly every time I have needed it. If the 12000 watt had been offered when I bought mine, I would have gone with it. http://www.wincogen.com/HPS9000VE/

I understand now. Even if you could overcome the challenges of modifying your duct work, if your system was sized correctly 5 years ago, it will likely not have enough capacity to accommodate the extra load. Adding a mini-split heat pump for the garage space might be a good solution.

The door between the main living space and the former garage is the door that could be under-cut.

I like Permatex Ultra Disc Brake Grease.

It is a nice machine - I have one too. The AC/DC model is an upgrade over the more common AC only.

Maybe pictures of the main and sub panels would help with suggestions. The 15 amp fuses in the subpanel are protecting the two circuits in the garage. A fuse or circuit breaker in the main panel controls/protects the garage panel.

Definitely something is wrong. Like Delta said, the line side of a 240v breaker has to connect to both of the buss bars in the panel. Your readings indicate both legs are connected to the same buss. Has anything changed since it last worked?

I mean no disrespect at all, but are you sure you are an engineer? I have worked with engineers from all disciplines for the last 30 years. This conversation would never start with the guys I work with before a load calculation was done. :) BTW-I'm not an engineer... so with a grain of...