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Castings done! Torch FTW (thanks @Outlawmws ), all bearing seats / sliding surfaces now rust free, v. light surface rust only on the exposed metal. Now to the motor, and getting setup to do some HVLP spraying. I have got a couple of broken 27gal Husky air compressors on FB for $150 to pick up on...

I'll try that! This time around I tried using hot water and my hot air gun and I guess it just lacks the oomph to get it done. It looks like there is little enough rust so I'll be able to spray rustoleum over it after a good scrub with Scotch-Brite.

Just a brief post as I'm tired and have a late midterm tomorrow night. Here is the base, fresh out, scrubbed with Scotch-brite and only slightly brown. I'm guessing cast iron is simply too porous to dry quick enough to not rust again. It is still a million times better: Head casting is in...

Rumors of my death have been greatly exaggerated! I have certainly been very busy at work - we had a visit by AMD CEO Lisa Su so were all on our best behavior. Any road, I have moved onto de-rusting the main castings which flash-rusted after de-greasing. I was able to extract the pole back in...

Column decanted successfully. Improved technique - after decanting immediately scrub with Scotch brite + water to get the black gunk off before it dries, immediately wipe dry ish, then blow hot air down it for 20 mins until it was painfully hot along it's length. No flash rust. I think the...

(... reads through @FrankLee 's post, thats interesting, wow that looks beautiful, got to love the window on that model ... ) SWANSONG!?!?! Say it ain't so, although I totally get that whole "too many other things to do" as I have two teenagers. All the best on the cataract surgery, and I have...

Yeah! I left some glass sheet on my surface plate for a few days, and could only slide it off slowly, not lift it. I believe it had simply settled down and most of the air escaped from underneath it. For the ultimate example of machined blocks, take steel Gage blocks wrung together - pressed...

I'm torn, as I was taught to keep tapers dry, and a (much later) Jacob's chuck manual and contemporary Atlas Drill Press manual say dry: But Craftsman (I guess Emerson, King Seely really?) say light oil. A later Craftsman manual (1969 113.24630) states a film of oil too: Obviously I prefer...

This is a great guide if you are new to checking runout. To expand on a couple of points: 1. A drill held in the chuck and tightened by turning the key in all three positions makes a decent polished rod substitute. (The tighten all three positions vs. just one can matter significantly, if you...

It looks stock! I'd never guess.

I've been Ill and tired, however I'm feeling better. Here is a teaser - the backyard ballistics rust removing brew is amazing! Before and after photos of just the motor plate: Post processing was dunking in slightly basic water (washing soda), then hot air gun dry.

That is an amazing pin spanner - I was convinced I was going to break my cheap cast one when I was hammering on it to get the chuck off!

Strategic question folks, most of the Emerson paint survived the degreasing, I'm sure it will survive the derusting too. Its as hard as heck! Rather than try to strip it, I'm tempted to paint over it with Rustoleum hammered grey + Magic activator. Thoughts?

Haha! Heat and freeze-off for the win! Spindle dissasembly is a go! Edit: got it apart and bearings out! Hopefully Chuck disassembled too and all in Super Clean.

I see that the table has a hole drilled in it for the Pressmate table lift, but the Pressmate drawings in the manual show a 150 head with that table style. I'm guessing that parts from the presses were all switched between each other if the column size matched?

"What monster lies under yonder briny swells?" (I also got fed up of filling the tub from the hand basin one qt. at a time, and since it was in the basement shower room and I had a wrench anyway... ) I still need to disassemble the quill and chuck, tried freeze off and left penetrating oil...

Got it! Using @FrankLee 's technique #2 got the column out! Once it started moving gave it a bit more deep creep, stood it upright and twisted it back and forth till it came out. I still need to disassemble the quill and chuck, then into the tote for degreasing and de-rusting. Left...

Good news, they both turn freely, and seem in great condition, so I'm hopeful it's all fine. I guess at one time Japanese bearings were the low cost option, like the Chinese ones are today? I never really thought about it before as Naichi are premium options. I was fortunate to find four...

After much scraping the upper spindle lock screws were easy to remove, surprisingly. I was able pull out the upper spindle by hand, so I hope the bearing seats are OK. Also I'm going to hazard a guess, but the 150 did not ship with Naichi bearings, Japan, correct? Because that is what is on the...

Stripping results, still need to separate the base from the column and tap out the upper spindle pulley & bearings (after releasing it's lock screws...). Looking pretty good, the worst seems to be the motor mount and motor support rods. Lots of cleaning to do! Oh, and anyone who has seen one...